Light bulbs to LED

[Minthillbill]

had some led bulbs left over from a popup so I replaced some of the bulbs in my 08 Wildwood. Such a difference I ordered 10 more same as before, more options avail. (Amazon YUEKUI 10x T10 T15 42-SMD LED ) Look at the difference:

[Minthillbill]

Forgot to mention. I measured 3 old bulbs 0.85A average (9.9W) and 3 new at 0.085A (0.9W).at 12.0v. So a good saving there when boondocking.

[mds47588]

In a previous trailer I had changed a few interior bulbs to LED. What a difference! The incandescent bulbs had a yellowish glow that was really noticeable after seeing them next to the LED's as they gave off a bright white light.

I ended up changing ALL the bulbs over to LED both inside and out with the lone exception of the light inside the fridge.

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by mds47588

In a previous trailer I had changed a few interior bulbs to LED. What a difference! The incandescent bulbs had a yellowish glow that was really noticeable after seeing them next to the LED's as they gave off a bright white light.

I ended up changing ALL the bulbs over to LED both inside and out with the lone exception of the light inside the fridge.

A lot of people prefer the "Warm" light to the "Cool White" of an LED.

"Warm" LED lights are available too for those that don't like the stark white light and prefer more "ambiance".

[spicercars]

I changed out all of the bulbs in our previous camper and they worked great. It was nice when we where boon docking because they don't take much power and the lights don't get so hot with led. I good investment I think.

[Brackston]

After replacing the batteries in my (new to me) 2005 Sunseeker LE, I did a load test with all lamps on. then I changed all the incandescent bulbs to warm white LED bulbs. The reduction was astounding with the LED bulbs used approximately 9% of the power of the standard bulb.
I also tried some of the Cool White LED bulbs, however those make us feel a bit nauseous.
I used the Cool White in the under storage area, and for our porch lamp.
Not feeling the heat is very nice plus.

[RadRik]

Originally Posted by Minthillbill

had some led bulbs left over from a popup so I replaced some of the bulbs in my 08 Wildwood. Such a difference I ordered 10 more same as before, more options avail. (Amazon YUEKUI 10x T10 T15 42-SMD LED ) Look at the difference:
Attachment 219227

Attachment 219228

I changed most of mine also. Finding a quality bulb is key. Some of the cheaper ones out there just don't last.

[ggodwin]

I did change some bulbs to led until one day I was watching TV on antenna and when I turned on the light I lost TV signal .Didn't happen with the non led bulbs ?

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by RadRik

I changed most of mine also. Finding a quality bulb is key. Some of the cheaper ones out there just don't last.

X2

We had most of the corncob types we purchased from Ali Express go bad, The domestic ones have been fine.

The older you get, the brighter you like it. Your eyes don't accommodate distance changes as well as they used to--why people need reading glasses. But the smaller your pupils (corresponds to brighter light), the greater your depth of field. Same as a camera.

So we switched from corncob LED to these really bright units. Mounted them with a few layers of double-sided foam adhesive tape. We needed a few layers to accommodate the concave surfaces of the fixtures.

[wilfb100]

The LED conversation brings up two issues forum members might wish to comment on:
1. What LED bulb intensity (or intensities) works best in replacing various incandescent RV lights (i.e. Kelvin rating)?
2. What brands provide good overall value?

[rsdata]

I did change some bulbs to led until one day I was watching TV on antenna and when I turned on the light I lost TV signal .Didn't happen with the non led bulbs ?

poor quality LED bulbs do this more often then the more expensive LED alternatives... you can google many articles on cause and fixes for TV interference ...

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by wilfb100

The LED conversation brings up two issues forum members might wish to comment on:
1. What LED bulb intensity (or intensities) works best in replacing various incandescent RV lights (i.e. Kelvin rating)?
2. What brands provide good overall value?

DW prefers the "white" ones--the bright white. She believes the "warm white"--lower color temperature, appears yellow--is unattractive. She's not here right now--Scuba diving in Honduras--so I cannot ask her to expand on this statement.

She seems to feel that pure white is best. In replacing fittings on our SOB, she hates that the crappy Camco fittings (courtesy outside lights, rain gutter extensions, marker light bases, roof vents, etc.) turn yellow in less than a year. Next time I replace them, I will paint them with white paint meant for plastic (from Walmart).

We had a mix in the Cherokee and as soon as I had installed the bright white ones, she asked me to replace all the warm white ones, too.

Other people feel that the bright white ones are garish or glare and prefer the warm white ones. See post #4 above. It's really a matter of personal taste. If you're not sure, buy one of each and try them in opposite ends of a double fixture. Be sure to let DW (if there is one) in on the decision. Happy wife, happy life.

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by rsdata

poor quality LED bulbs do this more often then the more expensive LED alternatives... you can google many articles on cause and fixes for TV interference ...

RS, I'm not sure I agree with you in the case of automotive and RVs..

LEDs for 120 VAC do, indeed, use a Switched-Mode Power Supply (SMPS) to convert the AC to a low-voltage DC--the same as cellphone and tablet chargers. They could cause this problem since they they can switch at frequencies up to 150 KHz or so.

LEDs for 12VDC use simply drive the DC through a current-limiting resistor. There are no high frequencies involved. An LED does not conduct until the voltage reaches 1.5 volts or so (varies with color). After that, the resistance is nearly zero. In a post above, Mint Hill Bill reported a current draw of 85 milliamperes. R=V/I, so the current limiting resistor would be 10.5/0.085 or around 120 ohms.

I've had good LEDs and bottom of the barrel corncobs that started losing LEDs soon after installation. I've even had a couple that flamed out and left soot all over the inside of the fixture and lens. In my post-mortems, I've never seen anything but resistors. No SMT chips. Same thing with the heater controls in my Tahoe.

One interesting thought: Mint Hill Bill was pleased with the reduced power consumption. I wonder if he realizes that 90% of the reduced power is consumed by the current-limiting resistor and dissipated as heat. Only 10% is used to produce light. (Less than that if you consider that the LED also produces heat).

[n1acguy]

Originally Posted by Minthillbill

Forgot to mention. I measured 3 old bulbs 0.85A average (9.9W) and 3 new at 0.085A (0.9W).at 12.0v. So a good saving there when boondocking.

The volts and watts are usually on the bulb, but yes, LEDs are mere sippers comparatively.

A previous MH I had in the 90s had fluorescent lighting throughout. I'm not sure the single battery in that thing lasted a full hour.
Our new MH has cool white LEDs throughout, and the batteries last for days if only using lighting. Dual vs single, but still light years ahead

[Minthillbill]

Originally Posted by ggodwin

I did change some bulbs to led until one day I was watching TV on antenna and when I turned on the light I lost TV signal .Didn't happen with the non led bulbs ?

That is common with foreign leds. Us made ones are more $. As a HAM operator, I see this often.

[pmsherman]

Originally Posted by Larry-NC

X2

.........

So we switched from corncob LED to these really bright units. Mounted them with a few layers of double-sided foam adhesive tape. We needed a few layers to accommodate the concave surfaces of the fixtures.

I replaced all of the original bulbs in my 2011 Georgetown with these flat panel units. I discovered, however, that they have no voltage regulation built into them and that the 13.2V present on the electrical system when the converter is running was too much voltage for these little panels. They ran extra bright and way too hot. My solution was to install a miniature DC-DC buck regulator in each fixture with the voltage set to 11.2V. Incoming power to the regulator was routed through the light's switch which cut all power draw when the light is off. The regulators cost only a few dollars each which was an inexpensive enhancement to the fixtures.


Phil

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by Minthillbill

That is common with foreign leds. Us made ones are more $. As a HAM operator, I see this often.

Yes, but do you see this on 12VDC units or only on 120VAC units. There are no SMPSs in the 12VDC units.

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by pmsherman

I replaced all of the original bulbs in my 2011 Georgetown with these flat panel units. I discovered, however, that they have no voltage regulation built into them and that the 13.2V present on the electrical system when the converter is running was too much voltage for these little panels. They ran extra bright and way too hot. My solution was to install a miniature DC-DC buck regulator in each fixture with the voltage set to 11.2V. Incoming power to the regulator was routed through the light's switch which cut all power draw when the light is off. The regulators cost only a few dollars each which was an inexpensive enhancement to the fixtures.


Phil

Great idea! They are indeed too hot. I love the brightness but it seems I have to retape them from time to time because the double-sided foam tape bakes. How about a link to the device you used? Did you just make flying-lead connections to an SMT device (e.g., SOT-23) or did you find another package?

[Lins]

Originally Posted by TitanMike

A lot of people prefer the "Warm" light to the "Cool White" of an LED.

"Warm" LED lights are available too for those that don't like the stark white light and prefer more "ambiance".

Agreed. I prefer the warmer white.