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Old 06-24-2015, 09:54 PM   #11
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Just did this mod, but for my storage area I made the poles telescopic out of 3/4" and 1/2" conduit....and at the trailer side, I pulled the top clevis pin and used a stainless 3/8" bolt, lock nut for upper anchor, and slightly notched the upper arm so that the nut and bolt head wouldn't hang the arm up when opening / closing awning. Roller end mount, used 1/4" eye bolt and just opened up the eye....also, stainless steel.
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Old 06-24-2015, 11:47 PM   #12
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Just did this mod, but for my storage area I made the poles telescopic out of 3/4" and 1/2" conduit....and at the trailer side, I pulled the top clevis pin and used a stainless 3/8" bolt, lock nut for upper anchor, and slightly notched the upper arm so that the nut and bolt head wouldn't hang the arm up when opening / closing awning. Roller end mount, used 1/4" eye bolt and just opened up the eye....also, stainless steel.
the storage question does require some thought, the telescoping idea is interesting,
my pieces are 95" long, but could be cut a few inches shorter if necessary,
I've looked at attaching them under the trailer, but right now it seems like strapping them to the rear bumper might be the best fit,
my eye bolts are stainless also but the top screws aren't,
I plan to paint the EMT and all other parts black to match the black hardware,
now I'm anxious for our next trip so we can give the new mod a try........
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Old 06-24-2015, 11:54 PM   #13
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I do have 4 4" dia. round pvc tubes under the trailer, but they were not long enough for a single run.... only reason I telescoped 'em. Thanks again for the mod.....now the flood gates will open!
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Old 06-25-2015, 07:58 AM   #14
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after installing awning posts using OC's brackets, I wanted to use the Camco De-flapper to add some strength to the fabric but on the elect. awnings there's no rail to use the DE-flapper correctly, the photos below will show the mod that I've come up with,

I left the parts unpainted for the photos so they will show up better, now I will paint them black and they will blend in with the other hardware,

1/2" emt, 1/4" bolts/screws, I opened the eye screw up enough to allow the tubing to slide thru

it'll take two post to add the eight photos, so here goes............
that top position is very high and its a long piece of tubing, so some may question what is the easiest way to install the tubing,.....what works best for me is to rest the top/drilled end up on the edge of the roof line, then I slide the bottom/other end thru the eye bolt and then I bring the drilled end down to the screw and slide it onto the screw............
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Old 06-25-2015, 08:12 AM   #15
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As a side note, I had to add 1/2" of threads to 3/8" bolt to have enough length for 3/4" tubing to slide onto and the bolt of required length didn't have that much thread. Now can tighten lock nut up tight and not crush track on trailer causing binding of awning arms. Also used shrink wrap on inner tube to keep rattling from happening. Also, added an extra hole to the 1/2" tubing at outer end to have a place to store hitch pin that is used to keep the telescoping action locked when using.
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Old 06-25-2015, 08:20 AM   #16
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Why not just use a stud at both ends and eliminate the need for a hitch pin?
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Old 06-25-2015, 08:29 AM   #17
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In my case, I needed a way to lock the telescope action, figuring if I had any flex with tubing bending from the de-flapers, I didn't want to stress the arms. And, I like drilling holes! Could use stud at outer end.
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Old 06-25-2015, 09:32 AM   #18
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since the awning will never be in the exact same place each time it is extended and then retracted just a bit to put tension on the fabric, something has to be adjustable,....with my one piece of tubing, the only way to allow for that is the sliding action thru the eye bolt, ......I think what OC is talking about is that both ends of your tubing could be stationary(like the top end is now), because your telescoping design provides that adjust-ability that is needed, thus you wouldn't need the eye bolt, both ends could be drilled and slid onto straight screws like the top one is now and then they wouldn't slide apart, but would still be adjustable because of the telescoping design of the tubing,.....
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Old 06-25-2015, 10:31 AM   #19
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Understood.....I'll try the outer dowel this morning and see how hard it is for tired eyes to hit the hole.....don't want to carry a ladder, and sometimes being on uneven ground, might be harder then necessary to line it up, and, am not 6' tall!
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Old 06-25-2015, 10:43 AM   #20
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Bob, you are right, that would mean working with shorter pieces and that could be more difficult to reach that top screw, so you may already have the best method for using your design...

us short people do have to improvise .......
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