Mods to my 2902SS

yvesm · 06-06-2010, 08:10 PM

Here is the first mod to our 2011 2902SS. A light above the kitchen sink.

milzat · 06-06-2010, 08:33 PM

Cool

"Now I've seen the light".

Got any more mods?

yvesm · 06-06-2010, 08:56 PM

There will be plenty... I will be adding a wall switch so that when I come in I wont fumble in the dark. The underbelly material is fastened to un-treated wood, which in the north east will rot in about 12 months. So I will be removing the underbelly and replacing the wood with pressure treated wood, while I am under there I will replace the duct work with insulated duct work and I will clean up the loose wiring. I have already fixed the fill and vent lines to the fresh water tank so they now fill properly.

milzat · 06-06-2010, 08:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by yvesm

There will be plenty... I will be adding a wall switch so that when I come in I wont fumble in the dark. The underbelly material is fastened to un-treated wood, which in the north east will rot in about 12 months. So I will be removing the underbelly and replacing the wood with pressure treated wood, while I am under there I will replace the duct work with insulated duct work and I will clean up the loose wiring. I have already fixed the fill and vent lines to the fresh water tank so they now fill properly.

**Herk7769** · 06-07-2010, 06:26 AM

I thought about doing this since we camp in cold temperatures on our way South for the winter. We get our start after the holidays.

If I insulated the heater ducts in the "basement" of the 5th wheel there would be much less heat in there and our stuff could freeze at night. The water pump and filter is also in the "unheated" space directly behind the sink in our floorplan.

We even leave the undersink door open to allow more heat, bedides leakage, to get into the basement to keep the lines from freezing.

yvesm · 06-07-2010, 06:53 AM

My water pump is actually in a heated area in the front storage area. The area under the trailer is not insulated and it is vented to the outside. In the cool weather the heat from the rear ducts is not very warm. I can also add a heat duct to that area if I wanted to warm it up, but I would have to insulate the underbelly. My tanks and waste lines are also heated.

**Herk7769** · 06-07-2010, 07:29 AM

and the needs of individual campers also vary. I wanted to share my issue with the 5th wheel "basement" area and why I did not carry through with my initial plan to insulate.

Have fun camping!

yvesm · 06-07-2010, 08:41 AM

Any feedback is always welcome so that I don't have to ask myself "why the heck did I do that!" And it avoids the comment from my wife "why did you spend money doing that!"

yvesm · 06-21-2010, 08:44 PM

I added switches on the dinette half wall so I dont have to fumble in the dark when I come in. One switch turns on the outside light, the middle switch is for a ceiling light and the third is going to be wired in the future...maybe a step light

NWJeeper · 06-21-2010, 09:16 PM

Nice work. Is that the furnace under the dinette? Talk about a "hot seat"

**Herk7769** · 06-21-2010, 09:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NWJeeper

Nice work. Is that the furnace under the dinette? Talk about a "hot seat"

Holy Cow you are right!

yvesm · 06-22-2010, 06:35 AM

You should see where they put the city water hookup about 2" above the water heater!! So the hose hangs down over the water heater door. They had plenty of room to install the water hook up somewhere else. Next spring I want to put in a larger water heater, the larger water heater should cover up the existing water fill and I can drill a new location for it. Notice the quality sealant job.

**Herk7769** · 06-22-2010, 07:13 AM

That is shoddy.

MtnGuy · 06-22-2010, 07:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NWJeeper

Nice work. Is that the furnace under the dinette? Talk about a "hot seat"

Our SV 263 is like that also. The missus claims that seat all of the time.

Jas · 06-22-2010, 08:17 AM

how did you pull the wire back to the overhead light? I want to do the same thing with the door switches on my rig. I have to go into the camper 4' and turn aft 2' to get to the first light. no fun at night after a few beverages around the fire.

**Herk7769** · 06-22-2010, 08:27 AM

The light is in the middle of the Queen but no wall switch. You have to climb onto the bed to turn on the light.

I got a battery powered motion detecting night light and mounted it high over the bed on the far wall. I found out I needed to put black masking tape on the lower part of the detector so rolling around did not trigger it.

There is just enough light to enter the BR in the dark and it does not bother either of us if we need to get up at night for any reason (dog or facility).

yvesm · 06-22-2010, 11:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jas

how did you pull the wire back to the overhead light? I want to do the same thing with the door switches on my rig. I have to go into the camper 4' and turn aft 2' to get to the first light. no fun at night after a few beverages around the fire.

I took the dinnete appart and removed the fridg (had to replace the fan on the back). The cabinet where the light is has a double bottom so it was easy to go up inside the fridg area and drill into the hollow space of the cabinet, then I just used a snake to pull the wires thru.

SaskCampers · 07-01-2010, 10:03 AM

Very nice work. I have a few things I would like to do to our new unit but I have a hard time taking it apart being new. Same as our old unit I had a bunch of things I wanted to do and never did due to fear of screwing up the warranty.

yvesm · 07-01-2010, 12:51 PM

This weekend I am removing the rear jacks so that I can install a proper cross brace so that the trailer does not move at the rear. Some some reason Forest River put in a 1" x 1" x 3/32'' thick (.09375") angle to support the back side of the jacks. when you put weight on the jack the angle bends up! So why can't they do it right, who knows. I will post images

milzat · 07-01-2010, 01:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by yvesm

This weekend I am removing the rear jacks so that I can install a proper cross brace so that the trailer does not move at the rear. For some reason Forest River put in a 1" x 1" x 3/32'' thick (.09375") angle to support the back side of the jacks. when you put weight on the jack the angle bends up! So why can't they do it right, who knows. I will post images

I'm doing the same, and replacing the factory stabilizers with scissor jacks.

Also, gonna add Homemade(shop built) Jack Stabilizer Bars similar to the ones in the photo. Click here to see.

Check out what Neil did to stop the shaking.

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