My 2013 Roo 23SS mods

[PineForestCamper]

You are prolific! Amazing. How many years have you owned that 2013 camper?!?!

[force]

Lol, thanks. If there's two things I hate, it's sitting still, and burning daylight!

[Mikedboyd]

I add screens for wasp protection.

[force]

Forgot one...no more wobbly table! Well, it's a lot less wobbly anyway.

[force]

Used pool noodles to save me from bonking my head on the bunks:

[PhotoMaster]

Those are some brilliant ideas! I love the fix for the terribly wobbly table and for the bunk edges. Sheer brilliance!

[garsplash]

Awesome stuff Force! Just purchased a 2013 Roo 23SS and can't wait to modify it! How did you attach the rails for the wardrobe shelves? I made the mistake of showing her the pic and now that is a priority !!

[force]

Hi Garsplash. Welcome to the Roo family!

I used 1 5/8" sheet rock screws. Just go in snug, as it's very easy to over-tighten. I used zip ties to hold the shelves onto the support brackets. So far so good!

[garsplash]

Thanks force! Any worries of hitting anything in the wall? Or going straight thru?

[force]

Originally Posted by garsplash

Thanks force! Any worries of hitting anything in the wall? Or going straight thru?

No concern going all the way through (I measured that quite a few times first). The leap of faith was in guessing there wasn't any wiring in the wall.

After checking the undercarriage to see where the wires come up through the floor under the fridge, and a scoping out where all the other lights are, I convinced myself there was no reason there should be wires behind the wardrobe back wall.

Everything still works, so I was either right, or lucky.

[force]

Has everyone found this thread? My Solution to Awning Lights

Hope so, because I have also installed them, and they really are that cool!

If you read that thread in full, the choices to implement these lights are varied, but here's what I did:

• Ran new 14g red & black wires from the battery, under the frame, and over to the entry door. I used trailer wiring clips and some zip ties to hold things in place
• Left the ground wire tucked up under the camper frame by the door, but ran the red (hot) only up through the floor and into the Media Center column
• Installed a toggle switch to interrupt the hot wire, then ran the lead back down through the floor to meet up with the ground wire (I could have / should have just grounded to the frame instead of to the battery and saved myself some wire...)
• Used weatherproof connectors throughout. Now I have about 18" worth of hot & ground wire tucked up under the camper that I can pull out to the base of the awning pole whenever I set up the awning.
• Made my own wires to connect the LED control box, which I Velcro to the awning, down the support post and underneath the Roo, where the hot/ground wires come out
• I attached the LED lights to the awning pole using the sticky tape provided (did not try and feed it into the groove because it would have interfered with the strap)

While parts of this set up are not 'permanent' like some of the other folks have done, particularly those with power awnings, all in all this works pretty well (I carry a 4' ladder so putting the control box up isn't a challenge each time I set up camp). And the toggle switch allows me to shut off the lights w/o having to find the remote, and ensures the hot lead that stays under the camper during travel isn't powered up.

I don't have a picture of them in operation yet (will get some after this weekend), but here are a few of the install. The dark one is tough to see, but I included it to show the z-clips and that there is plenty of room to tuck the wires up safely for travel.

[force]

Added a plastic liner to the shower curtain; DW sewed velcro to the original, and using 3m velcro and also 3M spray glue I put velcro in a few strategic spots on the wall and floor.

[TheWesties]

Tom. Great job on all the Mods. I just got my new Roo 23SS on 5/6 and have been non-stop with the mods myself. This isn't my first time around with a 23SS. I just replaced the 2010 that a 60 foot tree fall on it during Hurricane Sandy . Gotta say, if we were in the camper when the tree fell, we would have all walked out without a scratch. Kudos to FR for great construction. That kind of construction brought me back to them.
I really like the tool storage hooks you did. I leveraged it to make mounts for a lot of my tools in that compartment (rake, shovel, propane stems). I bought the LED lights as well. I tapped a small hole in the exterior and dropped the line down to tie right in behind the stereo. So glad I was able to order matching hardware from FR for some of the other mods. I'm looking forward to the maiden voyage starting Wednesday. I think the DW will be happy to go too. That means a week of me not buying more stuff to install on the Roo!!! Here's what I accomplished (so far).

1. Moved the vanity wall in the storage area under the rear bunk to gain an extra 2 feet of storage
2. Moved the vanity wall under the front bunk to gain an extra foot of storage
3. Converted the water pump cabinet door from screwed lock to a latch and handle
4. Installed a drawer under the entertainment center
5. Installed a shelf under bathroom sink.
6. Installed an extra matching towel bar
7. Installed a screen door cross bar
8. Extended the fresh water drain to reach the side of the camper (so I don't have to crawl under to drain extra before transport home)
9. Installed tool hangers in drivers side storage compartment
10. Installed L brackets on rear bumper to transport tikis and tarp stands
11. LED Awning lights
12. 2nd 12V battery
13. Equalizer sway bar/weight distribution hitch

Still pending

14. Table brackets for wobbly legs
15. Tent end covers (PUGs)
16. Install sprayer for Toilet (http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...let-24552.html)
17. LED lighting in external storage
18. Rear bumper step
19. 3" Memory Foam mattress topper
20. Closet organizer shevling
21. RF remote for LED lights

The biggest PITA seems to be the lingering smell from the build. I've been airing it out non-stop since it arrived and still not completely gone yet.

[force]

Thanks TheWesties! Love your list, a few of those I will have to tackle:

1. moving vanity walls (because you really can't ever have enough storage!)
2. screen cross bar
3. few more tool storage hooks (didn't know I'd need a small rake until last weekend lol)

It's become very apparent that my kids are going to wreck the screen if I don't give them something else to push. I did put some reflective tape on the door latch frame, which shows up great at night, but I don't think that's the solve-all.

[PhotoMaster]

Originally Posted by TheWesties

8. Extended the fresh water drain to reach the side of the camper (so I don't have to crawl under to drain extra before transport home)

I would love to see what you did here. Due to a disability, getting under isn't an option for me. If I see what you did, I can get my son (24y.o.) to do it for me so I can drain the system easier.
Thanks
Greg

[garsplash]

Force, what type of screws did you use to strengthen the table?

Also, have you had any issues with the slide out blowing fuses?? I've gone thru about 8 in two weekends

[PhotoMaster]

As far as the fuse goes, I'd suggest putting in a self resetting circuit breaker. It's what I had to do.

[garsplash]

I've read of that on here but can't find the thread... Can you elaborate a bit on that? I'm handy but not electrical savvy..... But don't mind tackling it

[force]

Originally Posted by garsplash

Force, what type of screws did you use to strengthen the table?

Also, have you had any issues with the slide out blowing fuses?? I've gone thru about 8 in two weekends

I used self tapping sheet metal screws for the table. And other than the dealer blowing the slide out fuse the day we picked it up, I've never blown a fuse. And this is after 15-20 slide in/out uses so far. <knocks on wood>

[PhotoMaster]

Under the camper on my 23SS, there is an electrical box with a fuse in it for the slide out. I believe the mechanic said it was in a green socket. He put in a self-resetting breaker and I haven't had a problem since. I can call them tomorrow and get what information I can on the breaker for you. What I think happens is that when you run on AC, the converter puts out slightly higher voltage (needed to charge the battery) than when you run off the battery, so when the slide reaches it's end the motor assembly ratchets. On the battery it didn't ratchet and starts to draw too much current, blowing the fuse. The circuit breaker is slower to trip and will reset itself if it does trip.