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Old 01-12-2014, 07:28 PM   #1561
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For 15 bucks, buy a new set

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Old 01-12-2014, 07:29 PM   #1562
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Mine quit working---anyone ever troubleshoot these things?
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Old 01-13-2014, 11:36 AM   #1563
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For 15 bucks, buy a new set

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+1
I consider these things disposable. If I can get a season out of them i am happy.
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Old 01-13-2014, 01:34 PM   #1564
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Controller

What I have found in playing around with these things, the controller is usually at fault. Just so happened, I had an extra controller from another set that went south, tried in on the other that has gone south and low and behold, it started to working. So, try another controller:
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Old 01-22-2014, 05:09 PM   #1565
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I made it through about 10 pages of threads on these led strips trying to find someone that ran these off 12v dc, and gave up....so i'll just ask.

Can i eliminate the transformer and run these off the trailers battery? I'm assuming that since the remote controller is between the transformer and the led strip it will retain the remote functionality running it off 12v dc.

I'd like to mount these where the awning attaches to the trailer so in the evening when the awning is rolled up, they still are visible. I was thinking of using 3-5 small velcro strips so i can remove and store them when the trailer isn't in use. Has anyone tried this?

For reference, this is the one i'm thinking of ordering:
LEDwholesalers 16.4ft RGB Color Changing Kit with LED Flexible Strip, Controller with 44-button Remote and Power Supply, 2034RGB+3315+3215 - Amazon.com
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Old 01-22-2014, 05:33 PM   #1566
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Most of us did run it off of the 12V side. I ran a switch and powered it from the fuse box.
Most of also used the 3M molding tape for the attachment to the awning gutter against the trailer.
Check my albums for pics.
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Old 01-22-2014, 05:50 PM   #1567
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Thanks! Looks like I'll be ordering it. We're you able to retain remote functionality running it off dc?

Was there any hardware that was needed to make it run off dc (connector)?

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Old 01-22-2014, 06:07 PM   #1568
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I used clear silicone both for glue and some over the top. I hate messing with that stuff but maybe that'll make them last longer. I had no idea this thread was here until long after installing them but so far so good.
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Old 01-22-2014, 07:35 PM   #1569
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On/Off DC

My LED's are wired in directly to the outside bug lite wiring and uses the on/off switch located inside the coach. All I did was take the guts out of the outside lite, drilled a hole in the bottom for the antenna and then ran the DC wiring out the back and then connected the wiring to the lights out another hole in the fixture, all these holes of course were sealed up with silicone caulk. All works well. I am however ordering some track material to run the lights in, it has a clear plastic pop in lense that will protect the LED's when not in use:




Quote:
Originally Posted by danimal86 View Post
Thanks! Looks like I'll be ordering it. We're you able to retain remote functionality running it off dc?

Was there any hardware that was needed to make it run off dc (connector)?

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Old 01-23-2014, 05:12 AM   #1570
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Originally Posted by danimal86 View Post
Thanks! Looks like I'll be ordering it. We're you able to retain remote functionality running it off dc?

Was there any hardware that was needed to make it run off dc (connector)?

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Hi Danimal86,
Yes, the remote does still work off of the 12V. You will have to find a place for the IR eye to stick out. Some put the controller and eye in the porch lights or in the basement hatch doors. I think most of us with the power awnings ran the wires from the awning gutter down the awning rails on the exterior and came inside where the awning power wires come in.
I had to use this extension wire to get down the rail and to the inside.

I used this connector to plug into the controller for the 12V power connection.
I used 12 AWG GAUGE wire to run from the fuse panel to the switch and above connector.
Hope that helps,
crunchman
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