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Old 07-19-2014, 07:47 AM   #1791
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Originally Posted by OldCoot View Post
Maybe I just don't understand this, but why go to the trouble of soldering to a bulb when you can just splice into the 12 v lead to the bulb?
The bulb used in the scare light is single filament.
The bulb you posted is for a two filament tail light.

I suppose the person who posted this method did not think of your suggestion before doing his install.

I know I did not when I saw his method; I thought it was a pretty cool solution.
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Old 07-19-2014, 10:16 PM   #1792
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I just took the porch light off, cut the bulb connector out, and soldered to the wires. Works great. Thought about breaking a bulb but decided not to go that route.
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Old 07-19-2014, 11:19 PM   #1793
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Thumbs up Phase One Complete

Phase One Complete. (almost)
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Old 07-20-2014, 07:36 AM   #1794
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Originally Posted by grege View Post
I just took the porch light off, cut the bulb connector out, and soldered to the wires. Works great. Thought about breaking a bulb but decided not to go that route.
If you decide to remove the LEDs for some reason, porch lights are inexpensive. Your solution is much easier on the install.

Amazon.com: Gold Stars F3528006 RV LED Oval Porch Light Fixture w/ Clear & Amber Lens 110 or 170 LUM Cool White: Automotive

This one is an LED unit under 20 bucks.
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Old 07-20-2014, 08:08 AM   #1795
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Phase One Complete. (almost)
Looks GREAT Textman! Job well done!

Looks like u went all the way around the front part of the undercarriage, right? What 12 volt power source did you tap into - or is it on AC for now, hence ur "almost"?

I'm gonna use my leftover piece to go around step area, tie into the other section with one of those Y connectors, and then into step power source, and my journey to the "light side" will be complete!

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Old 07-20-2014, 12:21 PM   #1796
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Yep went around front and 10 feet down both sides. Came up through a space at the front landing gear. Tied into the main 12v battery bar and grounding block located in the front basement compartment. Will try to post pics later, if the rain stops. Almost done got one corner that is problematic. If the rain stops hope to mount my aluminum channel and lights under the awning this afternoon.
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Old 07-21-2014, 09:41 AM   #1797
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Been done; just not by me.
Hi Friends - yes, that was my post.


I decided not to splice into the wires in front of the bulb socket due to the very limited amount of material to work with. I simply broke the bulb and soldered the supplied wire/plug to the filament leads. This method will allow me to go back to stock any time I want to if necessary.

One good thing about the setup for me is the use of the bug light switch inside, plus with the Crusader 325RES, I have a controller line of sight to the sensor from inside the atrium slide
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Old 07-22-2014, 12:28 AM   #1798
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close but no cigar

DW and I got the channel up and one strip of lights. However, I am having lots of problem with the solderless connectors. They don't seem to hold the two pieces together very well. Will have to drop back and punt. Need 20' of lights, but as we all know they only come in 16' sections. The channel is two narrow to fit the plug ends.
anybody out there good at soldering?
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Old 07-28-2014, 09:15 PM   #1799
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I finally installed my awning LED strip and turned out pretty well. I had initially installed the LED strip under the awning mount and thought it was a perfect fit until I turned them on during a test. I do not have the smooth fiberglass walls and the aluminum seemed to deflect the light. I then installed on the wall just under the awning mount and that was much better.
Attachment 57605
I used the weather-proof 5050 RGB and bought a quick-connect 4-pin cable to go from the LED strip to the porch light. My original porch light was incandescent and did not have a on/off switch at the fixture. So I bought an LED porch light that had the on/off switch. Since the power is coming from the porch light I wanted to control which light(s) were on. I drilled a hole on the bottom of the light just big enough for the 4-pin cable. I then wrapped the cable and LED ends with electrical tape to keep the connection dry. If the LED strip needs to be replaced it will be simple to do so.
Attachment 57603Attachment 57606Attachment 57607
I also decided to go with the wi-fi controller. I did not want to have another remote so I downloaded the Magic Color app to my iPhone. Its pretty cool to change color by dragging your finger around on the display. It also has a bunch of preset modes for changing colors and can respond to the music on my iPhone. I mounted the wi-fi controller in the closet behind the porch light with a Command strip. I drilled a hole through the wall behind the porch light and pushed through the LED 4-pin cable and power/ground wires to the controller.
Attachment 57608Attachment 57609
And a pic of the lights with no flash from my iPhone. This was a fun project! Thanks for all of the great ideas and information on this thread.
Attachment 57610
Gregg, I picked up the same wifi controller as you have. For the life of me I cannot make a connection between the phone and the controller. I tried magic color and free color. Can you point me in the right direction as to what you did to get yours setup. Thanks.
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Old 07-29-2014, 09:36 AM   #1800
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Gregg, I picked up the same wifi controller as you have. For the life of me I cannot make a connection between the phone and the controller. I tried magic color and free color. Can you point me in the right direction as to what you did to get yours setup. Thanks.
It took me a bit to get connected as well. You need to go to Settings and select Wi-Fi and let it search for the device. Of course make sure the controller is on first. Once selected, you can now leave Settings and open up the Magic Color app. Magic Color will do a scan and the device should now show up. Select the device and the main app screen will display. You should be good to go from there. Hope this helps.
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