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03-26-2013, 10:21 PM
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#781
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Mod free 5er
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 24,702
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Quote:
Originally Posted by herk7769
For those who may not know:
Murphy's Law
What ever can go wrong;
will go wrong;
in a way that will cause maximum damage;
and be impossible to repair.
There are several Corollaries.
As anyone who has lived a reasonably long life will tell you: Murphy was an Optimist. Reality is much worse than that.
Murphy's law - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
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Agree wholeheartedly Herk. I never thought of him as an optimist, I just thought he was trying to get the best of me and a few times he did. lol
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03-26-2013, 10:51 PM
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#782
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Metro St. Louis Area
Posts: 1,248
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After reading tons on this... Has there been anyone who installed with a manual awning and did a perm install by drilling a hole in the side wall and pulling power from somewhere?
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03-30-2013, 12:53 PM
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#785
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Chagrin Falls, Ohio
Posts: 3,225
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Question on LED step lights
Hi all,
I ran a 12 Gauge wire (red +) from a empty slot ( 12V DC side of the panel) to one side of my toggle switch. I ran another wire 12 Gauge ( from the other side of the toggle) to the positive side of my LED controller for my awning lights.
I then ran a 12 Gauge white wire from the main ground NEG - on the 12V side to the negative on the controller.
No problem, turns off awning lights with switch or I can use the remote.
Here is the Question.
When I ran the first wire 12V red + to the 1st side of the switch, I pig tailed a 12 Gauge off of that wire before the switch for power to the 1st side of a 2nd switch (new for the step lights)
I then ran a 14 Gauge RED + (ran out of 12 g) ( 2nd side of 2nd switch) back to where I want to have power for my step lights. (that would work off of the 2nd switch)
The short led strips linked in previous post have 1 red and 1 black wire coming off of them.
Would I need to run a white (- neg) wire down to same location for the NEG -?
I would like to put 2 strips per stair location.
Soooo,
Would the red on the new strip lights be Pos + and the Black Neg-?
I am thinking,,, Red + (return power from switch) to red on strip light? ( pigtail 2 sets together (red +) and pigtail (red +) to other stair well and connect the same way?
Would I just connect the white neg - from 12DC panel to the black - on the strip lights and wire like the red +? (pig tailed)
Sorry for the confusion.
crunchman
__________________
2017 Salem Villa Estate 395RET-
2011 Coachmen Freedom Express 295RLDS- Sold
2015 F-250 FX4
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03-30-2013, 04:35 PM
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#786
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Owner/Operator
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Chino Valley, AZ
Posts: 671
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In my opinion, you do not need to run a 12- wire all the way from the fuse panel to the LED Strip Pig Tail.
You can pick up the 12- from anywhere on the frame of the RV, or if you have aluminum substructure for the floor you can get it there.
I use a self tapping screw into the aluminum, and attach the black wire with a wire lug. You of course may have to extend the black wire some.
RodeoGeorge
__________________
2013 Rockwood 8289WS
Mods: Central Vac, PI EMS-HW50C, 2025RV, (2) SCS225 Trojans, PD9260, Awning Remotes & LED Lights, Eliminators, External Water Filter,, Intellijacks
2008 RAM 3500 Cab&Chassis Hauler Bed, B&W Companion Hitch
All My Modifications are at this link:
https://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ons-36212.html
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03-30-2013, 11:04 PM
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#787
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Chagrin Falls, Ohio
Posts: 3,225
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RodeoGeorge
In my opinion, you do not need to run a 12- wire all the way from the fuse panel to the LED Strip Pig Tail.
You can pick up the 12- from anywhere on the frame of the RV, or if you have aluminum substructure for the floor you can get it there.
I use a self tapping screw into the aluminum, and attach the black wire with a wire lug. You of course may have to extend the black wire some.
RodeoGeorge
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RodeoGeorge,
Thank you for your reply.
Can I get a ground off of the steps? That should be fine right?
I would use the wire lug and self tap screw.
TIA,
crunchman
__________________
2017 Salem Villa Estate 395RET-
2011 Coachmen Freedom Express 295RLDS- Sold
2015 F-250 FX4
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03-30-2013, 11:05 PM
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#788
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Phat Phrog Stunt Team
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Iowa
Posts: 34,507
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crunchman12001
RodeoGeorge,
Thank you for your reply.
Can I get a ground off of the steps? That should be fine right?
I would use the wire lug and self tap screw.
TIA,
crunchman
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Why not ground right to your frame?
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03-30-2013, 11:10 PM
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#789
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Chagrin Falls, Ohio
Posts: 3,225
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Quote:
Originally Posted by f1100turbo
Why not ground right to your frame?
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I could do that too. Just asking where / or if it makes a difference.
__________________
2017 Salem Villa Estate 395RET-
2011 Coachmen Freedom Express 295RLDS- Sold
2015 F-250 FX4
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03-30-2013, 11:12 PM
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#790
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Owner/Operator
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Chino Valley, AZ
Posts: 671
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crunchman12001
RodeoGeorge,
Thank you for your reply.
Can I get a ground off of the steps? That should be fine right?
I would use the wire lug and self tap screw.
TIA,
crunchman
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Grounding to the steps would be "iffy". We don't know how good an electrical connection there is between the step frame and the RV frame.
You can try it, and if the light do not operate, or are erratic, you most likely have a poor ground.
As was just mentioned, best to go to the Frame itself and avoid potential difficulties.
RodeoGeorge
__________________
2013 Rockwood 8289WS
Mods: Central Vac, PI EMS-HW50C, 2025RV, (2) SCS225 Trojans, PD9260, Awning Remotes & LED Lights, Eliminators, External Water Filter,, Intellijacks
2008 RAM 3500 Cab&Chassis Hauler Bed, B&W Companion Hitch
All My Modifications are at this link:
https://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ons-36212.html
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03-30-2013, 11:12 PM
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#791
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Phat Phrog Stunt Team
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Iowa
Posts: 34,507
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RodeoGeorge
Grounding to the steps would be "iffy". We don't know how good an electrical connection there is between the step frame and the RV frame.
You can try it, and if the light do not operate, or are erratic, you most likely have a poor ground.
As was just mentioned, best to go to the Frame itself and avoid potential difficulties.
RodeoGeorge
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Yep!
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03-30-2013, 11:17 PM
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#792
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Chagrin Falls, Ohio
Posts: 3,225
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RodeoGeorge, f1100turbo,
Thank you for the guidance on hooking these lights up. I will hook the ground to the frame of the Trailer. I will get them on tomorrow if it does not rain.
Thanks again,
crunchman
__________________
2017 Salem Villa Estate 395RET-
2011 Coachmen Freedom Express 295RLDS- Sold
2015 F-250 FX4
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03-30-2013, 11:18 PM
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#793
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Phat Phrog Stunt Team
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Iowa
Posts: 34,507
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crunchman12001
RodeoGeorge, f1100turbo,
Thank you for the guidance on hooking these lights up. I will hook the ground to the frame of the Trailer. I will get them on tomorrow if it does not rain.
Thanks again,
crunchman
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Your welcome.
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03-30-2013, 11:20 PM
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#794
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Illinois
Posts: 880
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Quote:
Originally Posted by f1100turbo
Yep!
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12 volt is extremely finicky with ground wires. I agree with grounding to the frame. Make sure that you also sand down any paint/debris/etc. first. Don't just drill in a self-tap screw and expect a proper ground.
__________________
Jack of all trades - Master of none
2012 F350 CC DRW - 6.7L PSD
2014 Sabre 36QBOK
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03-30-2013, 11:28 PM
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#795
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Chagrin Falls, Ohio
Posts: 3,225
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Quote:
Originally Posted by QCCowboy
12 volt is extremely finicky with ground wires. I agree with grounding to the frame. Make sure that you also sand down any paint/debris/etc. first. Don't just drill in a self-tap screw and expect a proper ground.
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QCCowboy,
Thanks for the tip, I was just going to use the self tap screw.
I will get down to bare metal for the wire lug to hit it too.
crunchman
__________________
2017 Salem Villa Estate 395RET-
2011 Coachmen Freedom Express 295RLDS- Sold
2015 F-250 FX4
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03-31-2013, 01:35 AM
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#796
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Owner/Operator
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Chino Valley, AZ
Posts: 671
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I ordered a "RF" remote controller for the LED Awning Lights. It arrived today, and it was an easy substitute for the 44 Key Controller that I originally installed.
I wanted to have a system where I didn't have to point the Remote at an IR receiver. The jury is still out on how it's operating. It seems to be intermittent at times, especially when I remove the 12V input power and then restore it.
I'll report more after I have played with it some more. It does not have as many bells and whistles as the 44 Key, but enough to suffice, IF it works reliably.
I've ordered a second unit for the rear awning lights, and it will be interesting to see if the second unit exhibits the same bugs.
Here's a link:
Wireless RF Touch Panel LED RGB Dimmer Remote Controller 12V for RGB LED Strip | eBay
RodeoGeorge
__________________
2013 Rockwood 8289WS
Mods: Central Vac, PI EMS-HW50C, 2025RV, (2) SCS225 Trojans, PD9260, Awning Remotes & LED Lights, Eliminators, External Water Filter,, Intellijacks
2008 RAM 3500 Cab&Chassis Hauler Bed, B&W Companion Hitch
All My Modifications are at this link:
https://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ons-36212.html
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03-31-2013, 06:23 AM
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#797
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: South Georgia
Posts: 80
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I am a little late to the party, but just placed my order for them as well. Can't wait to try them out when they arrive and on our next camping trip!
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03-31-2013, 06:28 AM
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#798
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Site Team - Lou
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: South Eastern PA
Posts: 23,269
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Thank you for the tip. I see a transmitter replacement in my future.
I like the idea of being able to shut off the awning light from inside with the remote.
Herk
Quote:
Originally Posted by RodeoGeorge
I ordered a "RF" remote controller for the LED Awning Lights. It arrived today, and it was an easy substitute for the 44 Key Controller that I originally installed.
I wanted to have a system where I didn't have to point the Remote at an IR receiver. The jury is still out on how it's operating. It seems to be intermittent at times, especially when I remove the 12V input power and then restore it.
I'll report more after I have played with it some more. It does not have as many bells and whistles as the 44 Key, but enough to suffice, IF it works reliably.
I've ordered a second unit for the rear awning lights, and it will be interesting to see if the second unit exhibits the same bugs.
Here's a link:
Wireless RF Touch Panel LED RGB Dimmer Remote Controller 12V for RGB LED Strip | eBay
RodeoGeorge
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__________________
Lou & Freya the wonder dog
2008 GMC Sierra 3000HD Allison Duramax
2019 Flagstaff 8529FL
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03-31-2013, 08:58 AM
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#799
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Owner/Operator
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Chino Valley, AZ
Posts: 671
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Quote:
Originally Posted by herk7769
Thank you for the tip. I see a transmitter replacement in my future.
I like the idea of being able to shut off the awning light from inside with the remote.
Herk
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Hold off a bit Herk. As I said, I'm not satisfied with the reliability at this point. If the second unit I ordered responds more reliably, then it's just a defective unit and I'll seek replacement.
Second unit is due here on the 4th, so only a few days away.
Hindsight being better, I'm thinking that the metal enclosure may be an issue, as there is not antenna outside the box. I've ordered 3 other models of an RF Remote to test as well, some with plastic case and less expensive.
RodeoGeorge
__________________
2013 Rockwood 8289WS
Mods: Central Vac, PI EMS-HW50C, 2025RV, (2) SCS225 Trojans, PD9260, Awning Remotes & LED Lights, Eliminators, External Water Filter,, Intellijacks
2008 RAM 3500 Cab&Chassis Hauler Bed, B&W Companion Hitch
All My Modifications are at this link:
https://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ons-36212.html
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03-31-2013, 11:12 AM
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#800
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ryand
After reading tons on this... Has there been anyone who installed with a manual awning and did a perm install by drilling a hole in the side wall and pulling power from somewhere?
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I haven't installed this yet, but looking at your tt, you should be able to get power from you exterior door light. Just mount/stick the lights on the bottom side of the awning with the controller mounted by your door, run power from your outside light, and hide it with this, Wiremold/Legrand 12 ft. Cordmate II Kit, White-C210 at The Home Depot. This way, you will be able to turn it off from inside.
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Stan, Wanda, Sheray, Alex, Nicky, and Macky(the Chorky).
2013 Prime Time Avenger 33BHS
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