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Old 01-10-2019, 10:10 AM   #21
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X2 on avoiding the kits. While some might be ok, most are overpriced. Once you get a really good grasp on what you need, then scour Craigslist.

Here in the Phoenix area there are a lot of solar parts at a great price. I went the route of commercial panels in parallel (higher voltage to begin with, and current in parallel adds) and an MPPT controller. Drawback, these are larger and heavier than most 12 volt type panels, and probably should get mounted on the roof. Great advantage, price, and they wont ‘walk away’ when you are gone. Plus, you will need fewer panels.

I won’t detail the differences between MPPT vs PWM controllers unless asked.

My take even in minimal sun, the commercial panels have the higher voltage design. It will trip the MPPT controller into producing current earlier. Also, you can get some really high wattage per panel-300+watts per, for under $100 each. Yes, any panel in shade will have drop off. But, some current is better than none.

Get a good battery monitor, learn what it is telling you. You could also go a bit smaller with your install since you already have generators. Use the generator(s) a few hours early in the day, and let the solar top off your batteries during the rest of the day to get you back to 100%. If you use the microwave for dinner, then fire up the generator for just those few minutes unless you find you have enough reserve capacity to get you thru the night and breakfast.

Since you have some questions on the install, there are a ton of answers elsewhere in this forum. If you are not comfortable, ask around to find a solar guy for help.
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Old 01-10-2019, 10:44 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by Paulie1138 View Post
X2 on avoiding the kits. While some might be ok, most are overpriced. Once you get a really good grasp on what you need, then scour Craigslist. Here in the Phoenix area, there are a lot of solar parts at a great price. I went the route of commercial panels in parallel (higher voltage to begin with, and current in parallel adds) and an MPPT controller. Drawback, these are larger and heavier than most 12 volt type panels, and probably should get mounted on the roof. Great advantage, price, and they wont ‘walk away’ when you are gone.

My take, even in minimal sun, since they have the higher voltage design, it will trip the MPPT controller into producing current earlier. Yes, any panel in shade will have drop off. But, some current is better than none.
Oh sure, you better be available to help them, the reason kits are biennial recommended is that individual piecemeal install can go very very wrong. Maybe you can scour Craig's list and get the stuff for them and wire it up.

With their level of need and expertise, I would get a 200-400 watt kit, PWM controller and use parallel, minimal setup AND a Victron Monitor to see how they are doing, and use the generator in the morning and maybe rarely in the evening to top off. They can add an MPPT controller later and series if they need to go better. For a less that 400 watt system MPPT is not worth the expense.
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Old 01-10-2019, 01:59 PM   #23
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Oh sure, you better be available to help them, the reason kits are biennial recommended is that individual piecemeal install can go very very wrong. Maybe you can scour Craig's list and get the stuff for them and wire it up.

With their level of need and expertise, I would get a 200-400 watt kit, PWM controller and use parallel, minimal setup AND a Victron Monitor to see how they are doing, and use the generator in the morning and maybe rarely in the evening to top off. They can add an MPPT controller later and series if they need to go better. For a less that 400 watt system MPPT is not worth the expense.

I got a Windy Nation kit, 200 watts and not installed it yet. On our old Rv I had a 100 watt kit from them and it worked great. 2 batteries in a Class C.
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Old 01-10-2019, 06:38 PM   #24
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Of course I am willing to help. That is why I posted in the first place. If they want to come to the PHX area, I will be glad to show them what is needed.

Lazgen, please feel free to PM me if you want any additional assistance from me.

IF they are even remotely serious about adding solar, the price differences between MPPT and PWM is minimal. MPPT will give the OP the ability to add panels without the expense of yet another device at a later date. If the OP plans to never upgrade beyond a 12 volt 200 watt system, then by all means, go PWM.

There are many ways to skin the solar cat. I tried to offer the OP. some ideas. My apologies if I muddied the waters.
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Old 01-21-2019, 08:16 PM   #25
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Solar

I agree you need at least a 400 watt system (maybe 600) but to decide you need to have a general idea of your consumption.
Also remember solar panels are big and heavy and you need a structure to mount them on. Make sure you have storage for all this stuff.
You can convert amps to watts by amps x voltage = watts -- 10 amps @ 110vac= 1000 watts.
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Old 01-22-2019, 10:45 AM   #26
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We plan to limit our electric use as much as possible. We have 2 Predator generators that we used last summer with no solar. We ran a residential refrigerator, a chest freezer, and an electric coffee pot. We had to run the generators about 6 hours a day and batteries never fully charged, but we made it work. This year, rv refrigerator on propane, no chest freezer or electric coffee pot. Still bringing generators to use as needed. Lithium batteries would be awesome but, wow are they expensive!
Did you get your 200 watts of panels as a kit or buy separate parts? Do you use anything that is not 12 volt? None of our outlets will work unless we are running the generator or plugged into shore power. Our old trailer had a converter we could plug an inverter to. Our new trailer doesn’t have a separate converter. The electric panel is wired to a mass of components and boards that apparently work as the converter/battery charger. I have no idea how to connect an inverter in this trailer.

I had the same issue with my older trailer. The outlets only worked when the trailer was plugged in. So, when I installed my solar and inverter I also installed an electrical outlet on the outside of my trailer. Which is wired to one of the outlets on my inverter. Now all I do is plug my 30A trailer plug into a 15A and then plug it into the outlet that's wired to my inverter. Now all of my outlets work in the trailer without the need to run my generator or be plugged in. The main reason for doing it this way was for simplicity but, as I have found out it enables me to run my Treager all day without having to listen to my generator all day. win win
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Old 01-22-2019, 02:24 PM   #27
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I had the same issue with my older trailer. The outlets only worked when the trailer was plugged in. So, when I installed my solar and inverter I also installed an electrical outlet on the outside of my trailer. Which is wired to one of the outlets on my inverter. Now all I do is plug my 30A trailer plug into a 15A and then plug it into the outlet that's wired to my inverter. Now all of my outlets work in the trailer without the need to run my generator or be plugged in. The main reason for doing it this way was for simplicity but, as I have found out it enables me to run my Treager all day without having to listen to my generator all day. win win
I do the same thing. Essentially plug trailer into my inverter. Just make sure converter is turned off.
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Old 01-22-2019, 03:36 PM   #28
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Since tis is about putting solar on the roof of a RV. Has anyone drilled into a fiberglass roof? I contacted F/R and the guy said 1" screws would be fine. I just want input on this.


thanks
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Old 01-22-2019, 11:44 PM   #29
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When we are parked, we haul our panels up on the roof. No worries about somebody walking off with them or following the sun or how to permanently mount them.
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Old 01-22-2019, 11:59 PM   #30
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When we are parked, we haul our panels up on the roof. No worries about somebody walking off with them or following the sun or how to permanently mount them.
When I had smaller solar panels I would put them on my roof. But then I upgraded to a 365 Watt panel that goes on a house typically. With the upgrade it became very hard to get the panel on the roof without damaging the trailer or panel. So I came up with a pole mount set up that attaches to my trailer jack. Now I am able to rotate solar panel for optimal Sun and being on a pole it discourages people from walking off with it.Click image for larger version

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Old 01-23-2019, 09:47 AM   #31
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Not your average sports fan....lol

Babock, here is the fan. Actual current draw, Fluke meter, is 57ma. @13.4vdc.
Second pic shows fan and the ‘tip’ in the upper right. I left the original fin-clip in place, cuz’ I can’t bear to toss stuff. Looking at the pic, I need to get a toy wrap in the old clip wire to tidy that up! Figured maybe I could use that thermistor in another project someplace.

The fan is rated at 57cfm @24vdc, but it runs at a lower speed running at RV voltages. And, is super quiet.

https://www.digikey.com/product-deta...567-ND/3594465
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Old 01-23-2019, 09:50 AM   #32
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When I had smaller solar panels I would put them on my roof. But then I upgraded to a 365 Watt panel that goes on a house typically. With the upgrade it became very hard to get the panel on the roof without damaging the trailer or panel. So I came up with a pole mount set up that attaches to my trailer jack. Now I am able to rotate solar panel for optimal Sun and being on a pole it discourages people from walking off with it.Attachment 195192Attachment 195193Attachment 195194Attachment 195195
now that is a set up!!!
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Old 01-23-2019, 11:49 AM   #33
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now that is a set up!!!
LOL Thanks. I bought the clamps and angle iron. Had an old satellite dish and pole. What you don't see in the pictures is enough cable to run the set up off the back bumper as well.
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Old 01-24-2019, 08:14 PM   #34
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Hey notTobyG - can you tell me where you got those swing pipe clamps? I really like your setup and may go that route for our system.

Thanks!
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Old 01-24-2019, 09:00 PM   #35
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Hey notTobyG - can you tell me where you got those swing pipe clamps? I really like your setup and may go that route for our system.

Thanks!
I bought them through amazon. They are made for stage light rigging I believe.

this is the description on Amazon.

MFL 660lb Duty Stage Light Clamp C223 Aluminum Lighting Truss Clamp for DJ Lighting (Pack of 4)


http://https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EWNHL3Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&ps c=1
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Old 01-24-2019, 09:06 PM   #36
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Excellent, thank you so much for that info!
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Old 01-27-2019, 08:46 AM   #37
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Yes! that’s a beautiful setup.
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