New battery box/inverter questions

[Gregg Willow]

I have been poking around asking some basic questions concerning inverters and batteries on this forum and Google searches. I have compiled some info and would like to present it to the forum and see if you could punch some holes my ideas. It's happened before

The jist of it...I want more battery for dry camping and I need to run an LCD TV that is 110v a little in the morning, and I found a 650w blow dryer for the GF. Hence the need for an inverter.

The inverter I am looking at: Xantrex PROwatt SW 1000 along with its hard-wired remote, to be mounted in my pass-through storage. One outlet to the interior (with the remote) and one to be accessed from the inverter. I plan to mount it close to the pass-through door to access the other outlet and read voltages. And, as recommended, use 0 awg wiring to the batteries (same length), and a 150w inline fuse.

The batteries I'm looking at are the Trojan T105. Triguy uses the T145's but I would like to try these first. If i need more power, I'll upgrade if the system works. Triguy, I'd definitely like your input on everything concerning this (battery box, cables, mounting, fitment, upgrading, charging, etc.). I'm also somewhat concerned that my converter will charge the 6v's correctly. Not sure what converter manufacturer/model I own yet. I'll take a look if it's a concern.

The battery box I'm looking at, at this time, is this...

Battery Box To Hold Duel Trojan T105 's

I like the battery disconnect mount location but would use the black version (Blue Sea m-Series PN 6006200). I'd rather have it be a bit stealthy. I'm also looking for the smallest foot print for a (2) 6v battery box. So this box is just a thought, the top looks like it takes a bit of real estate but can accommodate T145's later if wanted. Batteries and disconnect fit pretty good from what I see in the last photo. It's winter, but I probably need to move my TT cover out of the way and get an idea how much access I have (I bought a 2012 Salem Cruise Lite 221RBXL). This paragraph really is my main concern.

Any suggestions, concerns, etc. is much welcomed. I'd like to get this figured out and purchased so I can get some real weight measurements before I buy my WDH this spring. I know these batts are going to add some tongue weight (well, which ever way I go. Could be 12v's).

Oh, and may be Turb's can help with some custom cabling.

Gregg

[racedaymechanic]

I have had those switches apart many times as we use them in Nascar, They are not waterproof, It will not last mounted outside

[Gregg Willow]

Originally Posted by racedaymechanic

I have had those switches apart many times as we use them in Nascar, They are not waterproof, It will not last mounted outside

Hmm. I've seen many here have mounted these, mostly on the frame. Do you have a recommendation?

[racedaymechanic]

Originally Posted by Gregg Willow

Hmm. I've seen many here have mounted these, mostly on the frame. Do you have a recommendation?

Yes mount it where its out of the weather, inside compartment with the batteries is where I have mine

[Gregg Willow]

I am still looking at this switch. It can be mounted in 4 different ways. Here is a link to their installation instructions and shows how the switch can be mounted in 4 different configurations. Option 'B' is what I am looking at which should also be waterproof.

http://assets.bluesea.com/files/reso...eb_version.pdf

My concern now is amperage. The T105's come with these specs and I'm planning two...

Capacity minutes
@25 Amps: 447
@75 Amps: 115

5 Hr Rate AH: 185
20 Hr Rate AH: 225

What do I have to be concerned about with a disconnect switch as far as amperage and length of time used?

[racedaymechanic]

Originally Posted by Gregg Willow

I am still looking at this switch. It can be mounted in 4 different ways. Here is a link to their installation instructions and shows how the switch can be mounted in 4 different configurations. Option 'B' is what I am looking at which should also be waterproof.

http://assets.bluesea.com/files/reso...eb_version.pdf

My concern now is amperage. The T105's come with these specs and I'm planning two...

Capacity minutes
@25 Amps: 447
@75 Amps: 115

5 Hr Rate AH: 185
20 Hr Rate AH: 225

What do I have to be concerned about with a disconnect switch as far as amperage and length of time used?

Its still not, the "key" hole is not sealed and water can go right in thru it

[Gregg Willow]

What 'key hole'? It's a dial.

This is a link to it...

http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-60062...f=pd_sim_sg_34

[racedaymechanic]

The link you had to the switch is one with a key, The second link is not

[Gregg Willow]

Originally Posted by racedaymechanic

The link you had to the switch is one with a key, The second link is not

My bad. I did not relate to that key in the PDF. So many different models from Blue Sea.

[racedaymechanic]

Originally Posted by Gregg Willow

My bad. I did not relate to that key in the PDF. So many different models from Blue Sea.

Yes there are, as long as the switch is not directly in the rain or spray from the tires it will probably be fine, I wouldnt mount it outside though

[BigBaron]

Thanks for all the info!
You should install a mini-fan that activated when the inverter is on. One of the little 12V computer fans is what I use for my converter.
The inverter install is next!

Raceday - the Blue Sea shouldn't be exposed? Is that what you guys use for track marshalls to cut power in emergencies?