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Old 04-23-2012, 03:43 PM   #1
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New Honeywell Thermostat (Replacing Coleman Mach)

I am posting this for those interested in swapping out the Coleman-Mach analog thermostat with a Honeywell programmable digital thermostat.

The Coleman-Mach thermostat supplied with my trailer has a very wide range of temperature control -probably close to 4-5 degree swings each way - and I have been meaning to replace it for a year now.

So, I followed what many others on our forum have done and replaced it with a digital.
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Old 04-23-2012, 03:45 PM   #2
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I opted for the Honeywell RTH221B Basic Programmable Thermostat because I wanted to set the furnace to come on automatically early in the morning just before we normally wake.

I also like the form factor of this model, specifically because there is no door to flip open to operate the Fan or Cool/Off/Heat switches. Because its vertical and replacing a horizontal unit, you will have to fill one old screw hole in your wall.

I paid $22.36 on Amazon, which is $5 more than the non-programmable RTH111B.
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Old 04-23-2012, 03:47 PM   #3
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Here is a picture of the Coleman-Mach and its circuitry. Note it uses six wires: Red, Yellow, White, Gray, Green, and Blue. The wiring from the factory to my Coleman-Mach actually matches colors correctly. Apparently, this is not always the case so examine the wires and note which terminal each wire is connected to.
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Old 04-23-2012, 03:48 PM   #4
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The Coleman-Mach has two screws and the wires are held tight in the wall due to the foam placed in the wall opening. Just pull the wires through gently. Some of the foam will flake off, which is fine. You should be able to pull out several inches as needed.

Make sure to tape up the wires to keep them from falling back into the hole. The foam holds it but better safe than sorry.

Next cut the wires and use wire strippers to cut and strip the protective coating off the wire. Do this for four wires: Red, White, Yellow, and Green. Leave Blue and Gray alone and further tape those ends to prevent shorts. You will not be using them.

I drilled small pilot holes and screwed in the wallplate for the Honeywell.
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Old 04-23-2012, 03:50 PM   #5
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The Honeywell RTH221B thermostat has terminals for 5 wires: "Y," "G," "Rh," "Rc," and "W." Note the jumper between the "Rh" and "Rc" terminals? Leave that jumper installed.

The wiring illustration is on the case and in the instructions. Place the bare wire in the appropriate side slot. Use a small Philips screwdriver to tighten as you go.

I opted to wire in order to use the fan on high as follows:

Red wire to “Rh” terminal (Rh and Rc utilize a jumper)
White wire to “W” terminal
Yellow wire to “Y” terminal
Green wire to “G” terminal
Gray (not connected)
Blue (not connected)

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Old 04-23-2012, 03:51 PM   #6
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Last, add two AAA batteries that you will supply and reattach the faceplate to the wallplate. Then test your thermostat. I have only tested for heat and everything works perfectly. I’ll test for AC later in the summer.

From soup to nuts, the whole thing took an hour.
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Old 04-23-2012, 04:39 PM   #7
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Do you have hi & lo for the AC and does it work? I know you said you didn't try the ac, what was the reason why you didn't try it?
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Old 04-23-2012, 04:58 PM   #8
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I wasn't in an area with access to 30amp power so that will have to wait until I can move the trailer.
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Old 05-02-2012, 12:46 AM   #9
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Finally able to test the AC through the new Honeywell and it works perfectly. So all is good with furnace and AC. The T-stat does a great job keeping the temps steady.

Dunnnc, to answer your question, I opted to connect so that furnace and AC are both on high. This particular thermostat would need a mod in order to have both low and high fan.
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Old 07-11-2012, 12:02 AM   #10
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I did this same mod and I have an issue with the AC only working when the Honeywell is set to "Fan ON." If the fan is on the "auto" setting, it makes no difference what the thermostat is set at, the AC will not come on. I'm completely baffled by this. I have the wiring connected just the way you did. Any ideas??
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