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Old 03-02-2011, 04:33 PM   #11
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It may be true that a horizontally mounted fixture on the counter may not meet residential building codes. I don't know...will have to leave that one for the electricians and building inspectors.

But I don't think it's as dangerous as some here make it out to be. The fixture in the photos at the top is well away from the sink area itself and I don't think it's really that much of a risk. If it gets water in it the GFI or the breaker will pop...OK, that's a risk, so what? I strongly considered mounting one like that and purchased a fixture and box made for the purpose. It had a recessed mount and water-resistance and a cover for the box. I don't think it would have been particularly dangerous since these fixtures (at least the one I had) are designed for use on floors!

The only reason I went with the wall mount was mostly laziness. The access needed for the counter-top solution was going to be very tight so I returned the fixture and went with the wall mount.

Now I wouldn't necessarily consider such an option right next to the sink and in the case posted above I might recommend the plastic child-resistant inserts when the receptacle is not is use, but I think sometimes we worry too much.

But to re-address the OP and get back on topic...I think adding an additional receptacle is a very do-able project and now anyone reading this thread has at least 3 or 4 options.
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Old 03-02-2011, 08:12 PM   #12
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right on IGGY nec code vio. master electrical from md.
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Old 03-02-2011, 08:49 PM   #13
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right on IGGY nec code vio. master electrical from md.
I'm also a Master Electrician.
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Old 03-02-2011, 09:05 PM   #14
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I'm also a Master Electrician.

What's the difference in an electrician and a master electrician? Just so I would know.
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Old 03-02-2011, 09:24 PM   #15
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What's the difference in an electrician and a master electrician? Just so I would know.
Day 1 - you are stupid (head full of mush)
Days 2 to 365 you are a grunt and break your back carrying stuff.
Days 365 to 1,825 you are an apprentice electrician (head semi-mush)
Day 1,826 You pass your Journeylevel electrican test and get lic. ( you think you are smart.... NOT!)
After 30 years or more and you still are alive to retire you can call yourself a Master Electrician
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Old 03-02-2011, 09:27 PM   #16
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Day 1 - you are stupid
Days 2 to 365 you are a grunt
Days 365 to 1,825 you are an apprentice electrician
Day 1,826 You pass your Journeylevel electrican test and get lic. ( you think you are smart)
After not killing yourself after 30 years or mor ein the trade you can retire and call yourself a Master Electrician

Well said. Now I know. If you don't ask, you won't know. Thanks.
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Old 03-02-2011, 09:32 PM   #17
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Well said. Now I know. If you don't ask, you won't know. Thanks.
In reality a Master Electrician is one that has a Master Lic. that can cover much more than just electrical. Heating, Cooling, Security and Fire Systems and a few more. I was also a Elevator Jorneylevel mechanic.
I'm now retired and back to day 1. Stupid.
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Old 03-02-2011, 09:41 PM   #18
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A Master Electrician is a Journeylevel Electrician who has mastered not becoming part of the circuit.

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Old 03-03-2011, 11:32 PM   #19
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Question

Since this is a fresh discussion and there are a couple of master electricians posting comments... I am planning a couple of outlet additions for the same reasons.

Is there a wiring standard for RV similar to boating standards? Is stranded wire necessary or can you use wire used in home construction? Any boating manual warns that solid wire is more susceptible to vibration breakage than stranded wire...
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Old 03-03-2011, 11:48 PM   #20
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Trailer wiring is not in the National Electric Code but most of the time you need to use the basics like in your home.

On adding your outlets I would take one out and see what they used in the factory. I would suspect it is stranded and would be very surprised if it is solid.
On any 15 amp ciruit you should use #14 awg copper wire. I would also suggest you make sure you ground all the receptacles. If outlets are on the outside of the rig or in cargo areas they need to be GFI protected.

That's all I can tell you other than the black is HOT, WHITE is NOT and the green is Ground. Oh the hot wire always goes on the copper terminal screws and the white to the silver terminal screws.

DID YOU KNOW ELECTRICIANS DO IT WITHOUT SHORTS?
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