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Old 03-02-2011, 09:43 AM   #11
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Not if it has actual contacts. In the past many electronic thermostats used switching transistors. They were easier to design and cheaper to build, but they also may require A/C voltage input to switch. Most manufactures has gone away from this in the past few years. Just be sure the thermostat you choose has dry contacts and a MV rating. That will insure you that the contacts can handle 12volt. Any thermostat that says battery powered ( not just battery backup ) should have this rating.
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Old 03-06-2011, 02:13 PM   #12
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Just wanted everyone to know I did install the Honeywell RTH5100B to replace the factory installed Coleman Mach t'stat and everything works fine. Used it this past weekend and did a great job. Thanks for everyone's input.
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Old 03-07-2011, 09:23 AM   #13
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reloader, did you install a switch to select between low and high fan? If so, what type of switch did you get? Where did you get it? And where did you mount it? Thx

I just got the same thermostat for my Roo 21SS, but haven't mounted it yet...
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Old 03-07-2011, 11:22 AM   #14
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Loryj, did not put the switch on yet. Had the camper in some heat last summer and the unit on low could keep up ok with my settings. Not sure how your a/c is, but mine is very loud on high. Unless I really have to have it, I probably won't install it. If I need it, I can put it on later. The switch most people seem to be using is the DPDT sub-mini slide switch from Radio Shack #275407. Some have also used a toggle switch with the same description. Personal preference I guess.
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Old 03-07-2011, 12:57 PM   #15
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I have read on here previously, and have had personal experiences with running these rooftop A/C's on the "low" setting- the coils freeze over, and they cease to cool. My Coleman pop up would do this, and you had to shut it off to let it defrost, for it to operate properly once more. I do live in Florida however, with a high humidity, which may possibly be a contributing factor to that problem. The larger campers such as what most folks on here have, have a thermostat that will allow the unit to switch on and off, as needed to keep a cool temp. Besides, there isn't a lot of difference between low and high, and if you do replace the thermostat, you must install a separate switch in order to retain this feature. I elected not to, and wired mine on high at all times, for this reason. You have the option to wire yours on low full time, high full time, or if you so desire, install the switch. Randy
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Old 03-07-2011, 02:27 PM   #16
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Thanks, reloader-51 & 08flagvlite,
I have two concerns:

First, that as reloader said, there is alot of noise generated on high....I have only been out in the trailer once so far, and it was not warm enough to require use of the A/C...I would like to have the option of having it set on low speed on a hot, balmy night while we sleep, without waking us whenever it comes on...

Secondly, I plan on travelling quite a bit after I retire, and that will probably include going where humidity is high. Therefore, I would like to maintain the ability to set it to high to prevent the icing conditions stated by 08flagvlite...

Therefore, it looks like I'll be putting a switch on it. Thanks much for your kind words of wisdom!

LoryJ
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Old 03-07-2011, 02:59 PM   #17
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Not to disagree with anyone, but icing up on an a/c unit, comes from two things mostly. One is not enough "load", and the other is from low refrigerant charge. This is true with any air conditioner no matter where it's at or what kind it is. Putting a 13000 BTU a/c in a pop up or very small TT is like putting a 24000 BTU a/c in a 12x12 bedroom. It doesn't run very long and therefore does not remove the humidity. If it does keep running, the pressure drops inside the unit dropping the refrigerant temp and there's not enough heat or "load" in the air coming across the evaporator and the unit ices up. I've been pulling campers for almost 40 years and I've had everything from a Shasta, which was so small I almost had enough room to change my mind in to the 30' 5th wheel I have now. The sizing of air conditioners in a camper is just as important as sizing one for your house and you will have the same results of doing good or not doing good. Sorry for being so lengthy, just trying to share a little info.
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Old 03-07-2011, 07:25 PM   #18
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Seems we have some experts here. i am gonna ask away,hope no one minds.

Our camper has the furnace and a/c but the a/c is not ducted and controlled by the ceiling controls. The furnace has a thermostat that works very poorly and is aggravating. Seems it will run two or three good cycles before bed time, to level out at a comfort zone. In the morning that comfort zone is gone and it is totally out of range. The readout is not digital of course so you have no idea where it is set.

What's the deal with changing out this thermostat to a digital one? It is a Suburban model.

Sam and Tonya
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Old 03-07-2011, 09:59 PM   #19
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Back up to the first page of this post and you will find most people use a Hunter thermostat. All the info and the wiring diagram/connections are there. I used a Honeywell t'stat and wiring is basically the same. Nothing hard or dangerous about it.
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Old 03-08-2011, 08:13 AM   #20
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One other thing that causes icing up is a dirty filter not allowing proper air flow.
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