Originally Posted by stevejahr
But since you asked we have a new 2016 Rockwood 2604WS.
Thanks for the ideas.
Ours is a 2015 2604WS Emerald edition.
The layout has so far been great for my wife and me.
We're hoping to occasionally put up grandkids on the pullout couch.
Knowing that you have essentially the same trailer as us, here are a few more suggestions:
-Did I previously say tires? We had a tire failure on Monarch Pass. Looking at the tires, I found that our 7714lb GVWR is being carried on off-brand Chinese tires with a 7040lb total payload capacity. With 714lbs tongue weight, 7000lbs could be riding on the tires. There's a high likelihood that this weight isn't spread evenly on the tires for a variety of reasons. Also, using my engineering skills, I figured out that each time I take a turn at advised speed (yellow speed limit sign at curves) the outside tires likely get overloaded by about 350lbs with an otherwise properly loaded trailer. I changed from Constancy ST205/75R14 LRC to Kumho 857 205/75R14 LRD. Kumho is a reputable manufacturer (sold by Sears and Discount Tire) and the new tires have a load rating of 2270lbs vs 1760lbs.
-Add a second light in the bathroom near the closet. We only had one, and it's not enough.
-Figure out a way to lock the pullout couch closed. I put a strap around the mechanism. Otherwise it opens in transit.
-Figure out a place to store the small table and lamp that isn't in the nook to the left of the big slide out. We had to replace the slide out trim because the table got trapped behind the trim as the slide out was moving. I've been putting the table in the bedroom near the door.
-Put old towels or some other protection between the rear chairs and the straps that secure them in transit. We've got black marks on the chairs from the black straps.
-Get some black rustoleum paint and brush the welds along the frame on the outside. Ours was delivered in March and had been towed from the factory on salty roads so it started to show rust a little early. I'm planning to repaint as much of the exposed steel as possible in the near future to stop all rust in its tracks.
-Figure out how you're going to jack the trailer if you have a flat, and do a trial run. On our trailer, the underside is fully boxed in so there is no access to the frame in front or behind the wheels. You're not supposed to jack on the axles according to Dexter (the factory apparently does anyway). I found that a bottle jack of the right size just fits between the two wheels where you can jack on the sub-frame for the axles. I made a 2" x 6" x 3/8" steel block (4ft lengths sold at HD or Lowes) to insert between jack and frame to spread the forces and prevent bending of the frame. You need a pretty good lift range on the jack, so not all bottle jacks will work well. I got a Strongway 12T with 9" to 18" lift range from Amazon.
-Also, the nuts are different for the spare and for the wheels. Make sure you have wrenches to fit both.
-Check the shower for leaks before your first trip. Ours was not caulked properly at the factory. External caulking doesn't solve the problem. The dealer had to disassemble and reassemble the shower to fix it.
-Eyeball the battens that hold the bottom cover on the trailer, also the strap that holds the black and gray drain to the frame. All are secured with self drilling screws that are a little on the wimpy side. The heads break off easily. I've drilled out and replaced three screws because the heads had snapped off.
-Propane bottles, batteries, and spare tire are all easy theft targets. If you store in a location that isn't well lit, fenced, and monitored, put locks on all.
-Check that the nylock bolts securing the stabilizer jacks are all tight. We towed our trailer home and then discovered that three of four bolts at one corner were missing, and the fourth was hanging on by a couple of threads. I figure lunch break must have occurred at the factory after only three corners had been tightened.