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Old 09-18-2019, 08:48 AM   #21
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Update "No More Extension Cords"

Thanks to all who made the observations (and errors) on my RV Power Box installation. I check my local township electrical codes and did confirm 3 feet minimum from gas regulator. I have relocated box to 42" from gas regulator and installed waterproof outdoor PVC conduit. In the words of Canadian contractor and TV show host Mike Holmes "Make It Right".
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Old 09-18-2019, 08:53 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John-n-Janis View Post
Thanks to all who made the observations (and errors) on my RV Power Box installation. I check my local township electrical codes and did confirm 3 feet minimum from gas regulator. I have relocated box to 42" from gas regulator and installed waterproof outdoor PVC conduit. In the words of Canadian contractor and TV show host Mike Holmes "Make It Right".
As I said before Well Done ... Enjoy
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Old 09-18-2019, 08:53 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by John-n-Janis View Post
Thanks to all who made the observations (and errors) on my RV Power Box installation. I check my local township electrical codes and did confirm 3 feet minimum from gas regulator. I have relocated box to 42" from gas regulator and installed waterproof outdoor PVC conduit. In the words of Canadian contractor and TV show host Mike Holmes "Make It Right".
Not PVC conduit but weatherproof and code legal just the same. What you used is called seal tight and or seal flex depending on who you talk to. It is what I would have used.
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Old 09-18-2019, 09:33 AM   #24
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In the words of Canadian contractor and TV show host Mike Holmes "Make It Right".

Good Advice anywhere!
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Old 09-18-2019, 01:18 PM   #25
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I’m just wondering how soon you’ll wish it was a 50 amp service box.

Just sayin’
I still have the 30A outlet from our trailer. The MH runs everything I need it to on the 30A. The only extra I have over the trailer is one more AC unit. I only run one AC when I need to. Otherwise I am happy with my 30A box.
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Old 09-23-2019, 07:27 PM   #26
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Finally got 30 amp service box installed. Replaced unused 20 amp breaker with 30 amp breaker in house service panel, ran 10/2 wire to service box. Goodbye extension cord!
https://inspectapedia.com/plumbing/G...Clearances.php


Check this out, 3 feet is the min distance from the natural gas or propane meter vent. Arc flash is the concern.
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Old 09-23-2019, 07:54 PM   #27
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https://inspectapedia.com/plumbing/G...Clearances.php


Check this out, 3 feet is the min distance from the natural gas or propane meter vent. Arc flash is the concern.
I think I stated that in post #5!
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Old 09-23-2019, 10:40 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chief55 View Post
https://inspectapedia.com/plumbing/G...Clearances.php


Check this out, 3 feet is the min distance from the natural gas or propane meter vent. Arc flash is the concern.
Hey, thanks! That was interesting reading.

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Old 09-24-2019, 06:47 AM   #29
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husker fan is correct . I have worked as a Supt. of a gas utility for 23 years and we require any electrical appl . outlet, etc be a min. of 3' from a gas regulator . Just be safe you never know when if ever that regulator will start venting .
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Old 09-24-2019, 07:44 AM   #30
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https://inspectapedia.com/plumbing/G...Clearances.php


Check this out, 3 feet is the min distance from the natural gas or propane meter vent. Arc flash is the concern.
I should have said check out this link, it may provide additional information.
https://inspectapedia.com/plumbing/G...Clearances.php
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Old 09-24-2019, 10:25 AM   #31
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I've been a mechanical contractor for 40+ years and never knew about the 36" rule from a gas vent (don't do much residential or electrical work though) so good to know this, will be more observant.
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Old 09-24-2019, 11:21 AM   #32
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Nice clean install.
I would urge caution on the wire size. 10/2 is a bit thin for 30 amps, depending on the length of the run. I would have suggested 8 or even 6 gauge, depending on how far from box to breaker.
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Old 09-24-2019, 09:32 PM   #33
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Voltage Drop Calculation

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Nice clean install.
I would urge caution on the wire size. 10/2 is a bit thin for 30 amps, depending on the length of the run. I would have suggested 8 or even 6 gauge, depending on how far from box to breaker.
Since my power cable AND my RV extension cord are 10 gauge and the code in our neck of the woods calls for 10 AWG minimum on a 30 AMP 120v circuit, I figured 10 gauge would be good for our 30 AMP RV power connection.

I used a Voltage Drop Calculator to see if my 36 foot run of wire from the subpanel would result in a voltage drop requiring heavier wire... it did not.

I seem to remember the code page stating "no more than a 5% drop in voltage" before needing to go bigger. I would have needed nearly a 100 foot run before the drop would have been 5%, at least according to this calculator... https://www.calculator.net/voltage-drop-calculator.html
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Old 09-25-2019, 12:07 AM   #34
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Since my power cable AND my RV extension cord are 10 gauge and the code in our neck of the woods calls for 10 AWG minimum on a 30 AMP 120v circuit, I figured 10 gauge would be good for our 30 AMP RV power connection.

I used a Voltage Drop Calculator to see if my 36 foot run of wire from the subpanel would result in a voltage drop requiring heavier wire... it did not.

I seem to remember the code page stating "no more than a 5% drop in voltage" before needing to go bigger. I would have needed nearly a 100 foot run before the drop would have been 5%, at least according to this calculator... https://www.calculator.net/voltage-drop-calculator.html
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Old 09-25-2019, 05:17 AM   #35
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Good better best

Building codes are the work of committees and common sense can work better sometimes. Common sense says that the switch or plug can arc and spark light a gas leak. Conduit is for mechanical protection and water proofing. This was a good better and best tutorial on getting it right and legal. The building codes were started by insurance companies and they are happy to take premiums deny claims if you don’t cross your t’s and dot your i’s. While we sometimes say it’s good enough because we are competent the next owner of the house may be a doofus.
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Old 09-25-2019, 05:42 AM   #36
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If someone is going to pay an electrician to install an outside box , the 50A 240V would make the most sense.

A bigger RV may or may not be in your future but there is little question some sort of electric car will be forced on all of us.

Might as well pay the electrician only once.
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Old 09-25-2019, 05:44 AM   #37
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Originally Posted by kenandterry View Post
I’m just wondering how soon you’ll wish it was a 50 amp service box.

Just sayin’

I ran a 30-amp to our fifth wheel, and have never regretted having only 30 amp.

We can run two of our three A/C units if necessary (not using a microwave, blow dryer, curling iron, etc.)- but our main purpose in having electricity is keeping our residential fridge cold so we don't have to unload and re-load each month.
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Old 09-25-2019, 06:05 PM   #38
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Another cable that works great for home trailer plug-ins is "Teck Cable".

Developed in Kirkland Lake Ontario for the mining industry. Two, three or four conductors are standard, rated to 600v.

It is suitable for direct burial in most jurisdictions and can be laid directly across ground under certain conditions.

In Canada most cabling lists only the insulated conductors, the ground is a given unless you specify a cable without the ground conductor.

10/2 = 2 insulated and a ground. 10/3 = 3 insulated plus a ground, etc.


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Old 09-27-2019, 05:44 PM   #39
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Just did the same thing. Shoulda done it years ago!
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Old 09-27-2019, 09:18 PM   #40
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Good choice to use the Liquid-Tite, much better than the metal conduit for that installation.
I do have to ask though, when you say you're using 10/2, does that mean you are running Romex in the conduit? I know local codes vary, but to my understanding nonmetallic shielded cable is for indoor use only, outdoor installations require separate insulated wires run through conduit.
Just checking...
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