outside access ?

[shooter51]

OK, I'm fitting out a "new to me " 2003 Rockwood 26 Ft. 5th wheel. After a merry chase, I found the water pump and all the winterizing plumbing. (I'm not likely to need to winterize as I'm no longer comfortable in temp's below 50 deg. F )
All that stuff as well as an after market filter canister, the city water connection, and the plumbing for the outside shower, is packed in a space only accessible thru a drawer sized hole, outboard, and just aft of the steps to the big bed.

I cant even touch the pump, let alone work on it. The city water connection must have been run thru the filter canister, (now disconnected) with no way to change the filter. (one or two of the previous owners should not be allowed to touch tools or sharp stuff,lol)

I suppose I could cut an access panel in the floor of the hanging storage, The floor is glued and screwed in place right now. and that means emptying out the closet every time I need access.What I would rather do is cut about an 18" X 24 " hole in the side wall of the trailer and install a watertight plastic or fiberglass access hatch/door, Marine stuff? (when the drawers are in place, there is still almost 4 cubic feet of unused space available for the pump, canister and associated plumbing stuff, as well as room to work)
The Rockwood 26 lite is metal frame / foam sandwich construction . There is a sheetmetal partition for the Port side propane tankbox, door opens to the outside at the forward end of the tank space and abuts the battery compartment. The rear wall that separates the slide from the space, and forms the rear wall of the closet. (NOT structural, just light ply wood)

The big question is: can I cut in a large access door without losing structural strength or ruining the integrity of the side wall ? Can/should the wall be braced somehow or made stronger?

Can anybody recommend a source? Is there any thing else I need to be aware of before I turn loose the saws all?

I asked all these questions of the folks at the Forrest River repair dept. I don't think they want to know a crazy old fool like me. (the parts guy's and girl's, OTOH, have been super helpful, Thanks Ruby and Tim.

Thanks, Paul in Venice, Floriduh

[shooter51]

more info, It's an 8242SS.

Paul

[5picker]

Here's a Google search on compartment doors... hundreds of them.

Many folks have added them for your reason and others.
You'll need to do your homework on wiring or plumbing in that area and I'd suggest trying to stay between any structural upright studs/supports.

RV Storage Doors

Best of luck and come back and show us the finished product.

[Flybob]

If by saying "The Rockwood 26 lite is metal frame / foam sandwich construction" you mean an Azdel type material, try checking the exterior wall on a humid morning after a cold/cool night. Often, the aluminum frame material stays cold long enough to create condensation on the outside of the unit where the frame members are.

[shooter51]

Hey, thanks for the quick answers.

I tried the "look for condensation" method, just not much result down here in SW Floriduh. I tried several types of stud finders, no joy there either.

This post is really about accurately locating the aluminum frame members and any "in the wall" wiring, so that I don't cut anything but wall. My local marine salvage yard was/is a great source for watertight hatches, I just need to find the metal frames to determine the door size I can use. Perhaps even 2 smaller (12"X12") doors would yield better access, DKY.

Keep them cards and letters coming folks, we read each and every one...

Thanks, Paul

[shooter51]

Well, after a couple of weeks of WAY overthinking and hand wringing I took the bull by the horns. I removed the outside shower box, (the one I could see from the inside, but not touch) I took a short length of stainless steel welding wire, (about .035" in diameter) and pushed it into the center of the Styrofoam insulation, until I hit the metal ribs then transferred this distance to the outside of the coach.(The KISS principle in practice)

It turns out that the metal ribs are ABOUT 24 inches on center.
I say "about" because none of them are plumb or square. Not a big deal, really, I probed about every inch around the water box cutout. The planned cut out is way smaller than the space I drew out, lots of room for error.

I found a clear space 29 inches tall and 24 inches wide, as I said, way more than I need. I checked out several marine salvage places for a watertight~ plastic or fiberglass hatch. Everything I found was either weather beaten beyond useful or over $200.00, As usual, fleabay to the rescue. I found an 18" X 20" water tight hatch, with frame and plastic turn locks, brand new, made in USA, $67.00 shipped to me. (The RV World catalog prices scared me half to death)

I'll have it in a week, pull a cutout template, find the appropriate S/S screws, make the sabre saw sing and dress this pig. Then on to tracing the water lines, hooking up the cartridge filter, labeling the winterizing 3 way valve properly. I may even construct a plexi glass drip pan with overboard drain to protect the floor. (truly amazing what a guy will do when bored and waiting for parts...)

I'll post pictures as soon as I cut the big hole.
Rollin', Rollin' Rollin"

Paul

[Kimber45]

I realize your camper is 13 years older then mine, but you are a brave man. I'm not going near mine with a saw any time soon.

[shooter51]

Brave? naw , just experienced. For 30 years of my life, I cut apart, welded together, repaired, re engineered, re piped and re structured US Navy ships, then moved on to small boats, offshore race boats and some pretty nifty race cars.

It is said that good judgment comes from experience, the most useful experience is often the result of poor judgment. I'm not sure just which part of that statement applies to this project...

The redneck battle cry of "ain't skeered" comes to mind.

(aw hell, somebody had to get it done...)

Paul

[shooter51]

HA, Got the hatch/door from the big brown truck today. Pictures to follow when daylight returns.

Paul

[rat4spd]

Originally Posted by shooter51

Brave? naw , just experienced. For 30 years of my life, I cut apart, welded together, repaired, re engineered, re piped and re structured US Navy ships..

What yard?

[shooter51]

Well, I started out in the Philly yard, late 60's. home ported in Norfolk, San Diego, Mare Island, Oakland, Kings bay, Olongapo and Cebu City PRP. 3 times around the marble, in a big steel box.

Whenever I was not deployed, I tried to moonlight, at least part time in whatever yard I was close to. To pick up new skills and earn a decent wage. Back then, active duty didn't pay squat, (still doesn't IMHO) But skilled labor, in the yards, paid very well. (Put 2 kids thru private school and college, wife got her teaching degree , I got a wall full of "Hey, look, I'm smart" paper. Not a bad trade. for 80 hour weeks and chronic sleep depravation.

To your point, at this stage of my life, there is not much in the mechanical world that scares me. A real big, complicated machine is just a pile of small, simple toys to be played with. Make a plan, work the plan, it usually works itself out. "Ain't skeered, just careful"

Paul

[shooter51]

Today I bought a new blade for the sabre saw, traced the template I made yesterday, rigged a bit of shade (even in the winter, ol sol will cook yer eggs) and attacked. The pictures tell the story. No harm, no foul, nobody left on base. The sanding drum made short work of the odd sharp/crooked bits. ,

I'm going to seal all the cut edges with rubber cement (won't melt the Styrofoam) covered with a layer of duct tape (the aluminum stuff) pre drill and screw in the frame. What would you guy's recommend for a seam sealer? I was thinking of a bead of plumbers putty inside the frame edge, and a good calk outside. (what about 50 year latex ?) Now, on with the show...