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Old 12-17-2011, 10:15 AM   #11
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 54
Excellent idea for the burners but not sure if the oven igniter would work for me. Seems like i have to hold a long wooden match/ igniter on the pilot light/thermocoupler forever before it will ignite. Plus once the pilot light is lit your set for your stay unlike the burners that have to be lit with every use !!!

Kevin and Joanne
06 wildwood 27le fbss
08 dodge ram 4x4 5.7 quad cab
07 kawasaki brute force 650i

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Old 01-01-2012, 10:10 AM   #12
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 5
safety issue?

must be a safety issue or one of the manufacturers or aftermarket suppliers would have done this long before now?

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Old 01-01-2012, 12:17 PM   #13
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Urbana, Ohio
Posts: 237
I did much the same as Leaf-Peeper over on RV.Net (I can't remember if I saw his post or not before I did the mod). The DW didn't like the the OEM twist type igniter (had to turn it too many times to light the burner) and I didn't like the "CLICK-CLICK" noise.

I bought a MCM Model 3340 Universal Battery Powered Igniter (this one has 4 ports on it - they are also available in 1, 2, 3, 5, and 6 port versions) from Lowes or Home Depot and a bag of replacement BBQ electrodes.

Changing out the existing OEM igniter was easy - pull off the knob, remove two screws, lift the burner top, pull out the old igniter and remove the wires to the burner electrodes from the igniter.

The new igniter's stem has a larger diameter than the old one, so the hole in the cook top front had to be enlarged (I used a 1/2" conduit hole punch). Then just reconnect the wires from the burners to the new igniter, insert it's stem into the new enlarged hole on the stove top front, and screw on the cover nut. This leaves the two screw holes from the original igniter exposed, but they really aren't noticeable unless you really look for them.

Then, all you have to do is insert the battery, screw on the button cap, and the igniter for the burners is ready to go. Just push the button and a nice big juicy fat spark jumps from the burner electrodes to the burner. As long as you hold the igniter button in, the spark keeps going.

Now for the oven! This was a little harder. I elected to remove the burner assembly from the oven to work on it. This required disconnecting the main gas line and pilot gas line to the oven burner, removing the thermo-couple, and 4 screws (two in front and two in back). Then the complete burner assembly just slides out.

In the kit of BBQ replacement electrodes I used an electrode with just a short electrode sticking out of the ceramic insulator that also had an angle bracket on it. A little twisting and shaping with a pair of pliers, and the electrode's bracket bolted right up to the burner's thermo-couple bracket. The electrode needs to be positioned right at the end of the pilot light hood. A little more adjustment to get the spark gap correct, and the burner assembly was ready to reinstall.

Before I reinstalled the burner I fished the new electrode wire down through the same holes in the stove top and in the oven that the thermo-couple line runs. A fish tape or coat-hanger wire helps with this.

Then, just reinstall the burner back in the oven in the reverse order that was removed. The two most critical steps are to ensure the thermo-couple is positioned in the correct area, and the spark electrode gap doesn't change. Make sure the pilot gas and main gas line are tightened snugly.

Then all that's left is to try it out. Turn the oven gas control to "Pilot", push the gas control knob in (just like you did when lighting the oven with a match), and push the igniter button. Voila - the oven pilot is lit!

Sorry for the long post, but since I don't have any pictures, a thousand words were needed.

Rick & Debbie; Brandy, Dexter R.I.P., & Fritz R.I.P. (The Doxie "Kids")
2015 Jayco Pinnacle 36RSQS 5'er
2011 Rockwood Windjammer 3001W (Traded)

2013 Chevy Silverado 3500HD LTZ, 6.6L Diesel Dually; B&W Goose Neck and Companion 5'er hitch
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