Pass-Through Slide Tray

kraushad · 01-29-2019, 08:01 PM

Hey all,

Had a pass-through tray in my old unit but this new Surveyor 287bhss came with nothing in the pass-through except pass-through.

Looked at the expensive metal slide out trays for several hundred dollars and over 100lbs. for the size I needed and realized I could do better.

Built this out of lumber in my shop, weighs about 40 lbs (lighter than it looks), and cost me less than $20 in materials I didn't already have, mostly the plywood for the bottom.

A little paraffin wax on the wooden parts that rub, and it glides pretty well. Will have to give some engineering credit to my Vietnam Vet Marine father. Those Marines can do anything, and he always has been able to. We built one for his new Catalina as well.

THE FRAME

THE FRAME AND DRAWER STAINED

INSTALLED IN PASS-THROUGH BY SCREWING DOWN THROUGH FRAME INTO FLOOR, WITH HANDLE, AND LATCH TO HOLD IT IN PLACE DURING TRANSIT - ROOM FOR STORING BARS AND OTHER THINGS UNDERNEATH.

FULL AND READY TO GO - CONSIDERED ADDING A FOLDING LEG UNDER IT, BUT THE OTHER END OF THE DRAWER RAISES UP TO HIT THE UNDERSIDE OF THE FRONT BED, SO IT CAN ONLY TILT SO FAR. CAN OBVIOUSLY OPEN FROM EITHER SIDE OF THE COACH.

dward51 · 01-30-2019, 01:05 AM

That is a cool mod. I may have to "borrow" that idea for my TT storage also. Thanks for posting.

I have a thought about the back of the tray tilting upwards when extended. In the photographs it looks like you have enough room on either side of the base at the mid point to mount a wooden "L shaped" bracket, say 12" wide. The short part of the L would be mounted slightly higher than the top of the tray. The 12" width would give you enough space to glue and screw the long flat part of the L to the base to resist the upwards force when the slide is out. And being slightly taller (say 1/4 to 1/2") that the tray would still let the tray slide either way assuming it is a full pass through opening. Keep the short leg of the L reasonably short so it does not snag on anything in the tray. It basically just needs to cover the side of the tray top. That would also keep the tray from bouncing out of it's track in the base during travel.

Does this make sense?

kraushad · 01-30-2019, 07:27 AM

Makes perfect sense, and yes, there is enough width left in the pass through to attach a bracket like that. As long as you didn’t pull it out farther than the bracket it would work perfectly as you describe.

I am thinking about material. I don’t think I would trust the strength of a wooden L with a joint at the 90, in case the upward pressure would be enough to snap off the short leg of the L. Perhaps a short hunk of 2x12 notched? The notch would rest aginst the existing frame and the unnotched part would hang over the tray edge?

Either that or you could use a 1x12 and some angle aluminum bolted to it? Will have to think more about it.

Great suggestion.

**Bama Rambler** · 01-30-2019, 09:35 AM

Good job!

I built our current one using garage door rollers ( I have a thread here with it shown), but I built our last one kinda like you did and used bar soap to lubricate the sliding parts.

I also mounted the Barrel Bolts (one on each end) to the base and didn't use the hasp. That way you can slide the drawer from either side without going to the other side to disengage the latch.

Misfit011 · 01-30-2019, 11:22 AM

That is awesome. I may have to "borrow" this too as we

Teetime · 01-30-2019, 11:52 AM

Very nice! Time to go to Lowes!

dward51 · 01-30-2019, 01:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kraushad

Makes perfect sense, and yes, there is enough width left in the pass through to attach a bracket like that. As long as you didn’t pull it out farther than the bracket it would work perfectly as you describe.

I am thinking about material. I don’t think I would trust the strength of a wooden L with a joint at the 90, in case the upward pressure would be enough to snap off the short leg of the L. Perhaps a short hunk of 2x12 notched? The notch would rest aginst the existing frame and the unnotched part would hang over the tray edge?

Either that or you could use a 1x12 and some angle aluminum bolted to it? Will have to think more about it.

Great suggestion.

What about a piece of angled steel screwed into the side and for the L bracket? You might have to have someone fabricate your angle steel plate to make up for the thickness of the base frame and the sliding tray, but it should not cost much and would be rock solid. Especially if you have them make the entire bracket out of welded steel. Or if you can find a piece the right size (say 4" angle steel), just cut 2 short lengths and use 3/4" plywood as your upright to get the height you need. No welding required.

Also I would look at using a "drawer slide tape" on the base to reduce friction even further. Google "drawer slide tape". It's at Amazon or HD/Lowes.

kraushad · 01-30-2019, 01:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bama Rambler

I also mounted the Barrel Bolts (one on each end) to the base and didn't use the hasp. That way you can slide the drawer from either side without going to the other side to disengage the latch.

Great idea. I was trying to figure out how to make that work. I only have a barrel bolt on one side, but if I understand you correctly, you put one of each side, mounted on the frame, and just let the bolt stick up enough to give the drawer something to hit against, but didn’t use the hasp. So the drawer is sandwiched between the two bolts... then you can drop whichever bolt you are near and pull out the drawer....

Smart.

bedubya · 01-30-2019, 02:09 PM

That is BEAUTIFUL!
I have thought about doing something like that. But the inside of my pass-through is quite a bit wider than the doors, so I would lose a lot of usable space.

kraushad · 01-30-2019, 02:24 PM

Thanks. We only have about 2-3” in front and behind. Felt like it was worth losing that much space for the convenience of reaching the middle.

I agree with you - if the panel were much smaller than the area, then it wouldn't be worth giving up the storage area.

**Bama Rambler** · 01-30-2019, 02:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kraushad

Great idea. I was trying to figure out how to make that work. I only have a barrel bolt on one side, but if I understand you correctly, you put one of each side, mounted on the frame, and just let the bolt stick up enough to give the drawer something to hit against, but didn’t use the hasp. So the drawer is sandwiched between the two bolts... then you can drop whichever bolt you are near and pull out the drawer....

Smart.

That is correct. There is a bolt on each end and no hasp.

Lzerarc · 02-09-2019, 09:23 AM

I am thinking about the same mod for mine however Using the heavy duty 48" or 52" full extension drawer glides. these are pricey ( about $150 fan a pair) but like the smoothness and they would support the drawer without sig or tipping down. Its only for half the compartment, but that ok since I have large tubes with sewer and water hoses in the Other half.
One idea you could add is simple L brackets on the side Of the base that stick up with the short Leg facing inward. this would prevent the drawer from tipping Upward when pulled out since the bracket will hold it down.

dward51 · 02-09-2019, 02:56 PM

I had a 2018 Tahoe at work before I retired with a "Truck Vault" installed in the back. I love that storage box. It was not the model with full slide extensions, but it had recessed rollers in the bottom instead. I was thinking about something similar as a DIY for the TT slide. Harbor Freight has these "2 7/8" light duty rigid casters" for $2.99 each. They are rated for 75 lbs each. Put a couple of these on each side flipped upside down and set in a recess in the bottom frame and you have a low budget roller for the slide out. Or you could recess them in the sides of the top (I'm thinking bottom would work better though). They are 2 3/4" high and 2 1/2" long with a 2" wheel.

https://www.harborfreight.com/2-inch...ter-41513.html

You might be able to find something smaller and less expensive to use more of the rollers if they have a lower weight capacity. I found sets of 12 on Amazon for $11 but their capacity was less. This is more of an idea sort of thing and would be a lot less expensive than those high weight capacity full length slides.

Another thought is garage door rollers. They are much higher weight capacity and have ball bearings around the hub. These are $21 for a 12 pack on Amazon and it appears the shaft is press fit into a sleeve. If that is so, just press the shaft a little deeper in so it extends on both sides and it would then drop into 1/2 holes for a saddle in a recess in your base. This may be the heaviest duty for lowest cost option (and ball bearings in this application should last forever).

https://www.amazon.com/Garage-Roller...1&s=hi&sr=1-28

rtgoodk9s · 05-31-2020, 08:35 AM

I'm in the process of customizing the pass-through storage. I built a tray 70" x 20". I found a C-Chanel and wheels. My concern is screwing the C-Chanel and 1" x 3" (for height) into the floor of the pass-through. Will screwing the C-Chanel to the floor be an issue? What size screws should I use?

I also want to add a peg board to the front wall. I was thinking of screwing the peg board into the aluminum frame. I would use this to hold the assorted cranks.

Has anyone done this before? Anything I should consider with this project?

I have Flagstaff Micro Lite 25FBLS

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