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Old 07-13-2013, 11:17 AM   #11
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Great mod Herk....I will put it on my to do list for sure. It can probably help keep an AC from freezing up if you have to run it on high for an extended period of time to cool a camper right??
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Old 07-13-2013, 11:32 AM   #12
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When you line the top, you might consider covering the area between the condenser and evaporator with screen wire to keep the wasp/mud daubers from taking up residence on a fan blade. Those little devils sure make a fan vibrate and it is very hot up there when you have to take the blade off. Ask me how I know.
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Old 07-13-2013, 11:46 AM   #13
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That looks good all suction lines should be insulated, not so much for efficiency but because of the condensation that comes off nice job. that will help stop some of the dripping and rusting out your bottom pan. I'm surprised that they did not do that at the factory. Thanks for the pics. Now something else I got to get taken care off.
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Old 07-13-2013, 01:25 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by Xtrmtj View Post
Great mod Herk....I will put it on my to do list for sure. It can probably help keep an AC from freezing up if you have to run it on high for an extended period of time to cool a camper right??
Well, I think not. In fact it might make it more susceptible to icing due to the cold air staying in the air handler rather than leaking out through the minimally insulated metal box.

Properly operated, icing should not be a factor. As long as the compressor is off at least 20% of the time, there should be enough warm air from the camper going over the coils to keep it ice free. If you are getting iced up, you need to increase the thermostat setting.

I use 10 degrees below outside air temperature (to a maximum of 90 degrees if above 100) to make sure I get complete cycling. Running constantly is bad for the air conditioner. (In my opinion)
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Old 07-13-2013, 01:49 PM   #15
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excellent!

Great idea; thanks for the excellent writeup!
Pete
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Old 07-13-2013, 02:06 PM   #16
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In some cases icing is caused by a low Freon charge at least on home units.
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Old 07-13-2013, 02:39 PM   #17
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Well, I think not. In fact it might make it more susceptible to icing due to the cold air staying in the air handler rather than leaking out through the minimally insulated metal box.

Properly operated, icing should not be a factor. As long as the compressor is off at least 20% of the time, there should be enough warm air from the camper going over the coils to keep it ice free. If you are getting iced up, you need to increase the thermostat setting.

I use 10 degrees below outside air temperature (to a maximum of 90 degrees if above 100) to make sure I get complete cycling. Running constantly is bad for the air conditioner. (In my opinion)
Icing is mostly a factor caused by inadequate air flow across the coils. If it is happening to you, you need to open up all the ducts (including the central one), and remove the cheezy air filter from the inlet. The foam filter short circuits anyway on the dometic units because there is nothing holding it in. Ridiculous design, all in all.
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Old 07-13-2013, 02:53 PM   #18
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Great mod Herk....I will put it on my to do list for sure. It can probably help keep an AC from freezing up if you have to run it on high for an extended period of time to cool a camper right??
Xtrmtj, if your unit is freezing up there are things that you can check,
#1 check your return air temp. You should get between 15 and 17 degrees difference in your supply air. If to say that your trailer is 80 degrees inside the coldest air would be around 65 degrees coming out. It's called delta T
#2 Do not close down registers if is ducted system to force more air to another area. The reason is that you have to move the correct CFM over the coil or you will freeze it up. Remember these are only 4"ducts.
#3 Start the unit early to try and keep up with the heat, that's to say the hotter inside the warmer temp you going to get out and it will take a lot longer to bring it down.
#3 Being low on freon is a big one, you can cool great until it gets hot out then you drop in capacity and you will freeze the evaporator coil once it starts the only way to defrost it is to turn the unit off.
#4 As your inside temp drops the cooler the air will be
#5 you should not run the a/c when the night temp drops below 60, it will not allow for the heat transfer
If you are still freezing then you need to see an A/C person to check. and most of all make sure your return air filter is clean and not blocking the air flow back to the unit.
#6 Rule of thumb never close more 1/3 of the registers, this creates a higher static pressure which will really slow you blower down. I would recommend
1 or 2 only.
I hope some of these tips help, if not throw then away......
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Old 06-24-2016, 08:35 PM   #19
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I want to thank Herk7769! I have two Coleman Mach 3 (one 15k and the other 13.5). I did this mod to both units. I also sealed the air flow to main vents and ducts. The factory left it "gappy" to say the least. I did this to the returns as well using aluminum duct tape for hvac. Before I read this mod I had sprayed my sun lite over the shower with plastic dip. 2 coats grey, to keep light coming through, then 2 coats white to reflect sun. I literally felt a ten degree difference in the bathroom that day with no AC. Before our last trip I used the reflectix on the Windows using Velcro to adhere so I could remove if I wanted. All windows that were not shaded by the awning were completed. We just returned from ocean lakes in myrtle beach and it was HOT outside. Inside it was COLD. 95 outside, 73-74 inside and once DW turned it down and it got to 71. Last year same place, same heat we could only get the TT to 82 in peak heat. That was with 3 fans running wide open. Very loud and uncomfortable. I am sure my other mods helped but I can say that the air coming from my units was very cold and dramatically better than before. Thanks again!!


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Old 06-24-2016, 08:39 PM   #20
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Just so y'all know we own a 831RESS 2015 with diamond package. Just for perspective


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