Power Stabilizers

[Crankshaft]

I have read many threads about power stabilizers factory installed. Some are positive - some are negative but that just shows that everyone is entitiled to their opinion...and I respect that.
I have not discovered any threads discussing installation and that is the basis of my question. My Windjammer 3008W has the power stabilizer mounts already welded to the frame. No problem there. My question is the wiring. If I was to cut a hole is the side of the trailer for the switch box where they are (front and back) factory installed will I find a 12 volt power source stub already installed in the wall when unit was built? Or will I need to run my own power all the way to the battery?
I have physical problems with my hip and shoulder to be always dealing with individual stabilizers each time I set up even using a portable drill and socket.
Any help with this modification will be most appreciated.

[youroo]

Mine has a wire running to the 12V side of the Conv.Box that feeds both front and rear Stab.off the same fuse,in the Conv.Box. I would pull the cover on the Conv.Box and see if there is wires running too a location for your Stabs,if not that will be (FUN) running the wires front & back. Youroo!!

[Herk7769]

You may need to "home run" a 12 volt pair from the Converter (either an open spot or a pigtail fuse) to the switch location. Fuse the panel side of the wire at 15 volts and install a auto-reset fuse at the switch.

Here is what the wiring at the switch should look like.

[jeeplj8]

my guess is that some manufacturer do it one way, some the other. I have traced my power wires to my stab and tongue jack direct to the battery (with an inline fuse.) They do not run to the converter.

no idea which is the better way to run them, but glad I looked so now I now where the fuse is.

[Crankshaft]

Thanks for the help and suggestions. As they say, a picture is worth a thousand words and it was a real help seeing what the mfg. did.
I still have snow here in Denver but I was able to open the storage cover and venture in for a look today. It's 60 degrees so the opportunity presented itself.
Doesn't look like its pre-wired for the stabilizers but the converter has two unused fuse teminals. I think it would be possible to tie in there or connect directly to the battery and have to run the wires myself.
I like challenges but this may take some time. I have a month to do this mod and hope the weather cooperates. I just hate to pay for something which I can do myself...we'll see.

Thanks again to all who responded.

[Crankshaft]

Well, its done! There was nothing prewired from Forest River/Rockwood so I had to wire the stabilizers and switch. I used the converter method only because the fuse, should it blow for whatever reason, is more accessable than an inline fuse to the battery. The stabilizers really make a difference!

Thanks again for the pictures and suggestions from all.

[RodeoGeorge]

Originally Posted by WindJammer2012

Well, its done! There was nothing prewired from Forest River/Rockwood so I had to wire the stabilizers and switch. I used the converter method only because the fuse, should it blow for whatever reason, is more accessable than an inline fuse to the battery. The stabilizers really make a difference!

Thanks again for the pictures and suggestions from all.

When you say "the converter method", do you mean that you ran the wire to a empty fuse position on the DC Power Distribution Panel?

And nobody on this forum will believe you did it until you post the pictures. LOL

RodeoGeorge

[Crankshaft]

Originally Posted by RodeoGeorge

When you say "the converter method", do you mean that you ran the wire to a empty fuse position on the DC Power Distribution Panel?

And nobody on this forum will believe you did it until you post the pictures. LOL

RodeoGeorge

Yes, that is what I did. I didn't think about pictures but I probably would have had to take before and after shots to prove anything to anyone. Since its too late to take the before shots you will notice (when I take the after shots) that the hole made for the switch is nice and tight unlike the factory attempt in the previously posted picture.