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Old 03-30-2013, 07:52 PM   #1
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Hay gang!

Installed a new battery box today,ran out of time to wire all battery's together,so I hooked up just one......no 12v power, batt. Is good,power to other side of fuse block,but not in TH. I looked in the wfco distribution box fuses good, is there a reset some where? A lot of work to be this disappointed. Help!

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I purchased all same length connection wires, same as original size 4 ga. When this prob is solved,I plan to hook pos. on one end of bank,and neg. on other end of bank. Is this correct ?
I also added rolling skid protectors on rear of TH , no problems with them yet!
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Old 03-30-2013, 08:44 PM   #2
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you might have tripped the resettable circuit breaker by hooking the wires wrong.
it's almost always is along the A-frame of the trailer.
usually silver with a black reset button:

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Old 03-31-2013, 07:41 AM   #3
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Thank you bikendan,I checked this with a tester,it is on tung,under old batt.tray. I have power at both terminals.
I did not cross any wires,there were only 4 one black 10 ga.one red 10 ga for tung jack with an inline fuse,jack and light in jack work. Then one white n one red in 4ga. White to frame,red to frame mounted, I called it fuse block, at this two terminal block,is where the power for breakaway is taken,then it is in looming,all the way under trailer,to where it enters trailer through floor,looks like it enters just behind breaker/fuse box. The first thing I did was unplugged 110,when I started,because I know it was trying to charge batts.so pulling wires through expanded steel,I took no chances Or so I thought! .???
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Old 03-31-2013, 07:56 AM   #4
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I have been thing of putting a box like that on the tongue also. What size is that box? It looks very nice mounted there. Also where did you buy it from?
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Old 03-31-2013, 08:09 AM   #5
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It's a 12" wide cross buck truck box,for a full size truck,from TSC, and reasonable price $125. Anything wider,would hit the fiberglass nose pc.when opened. I wanted a 19"x36" chest type,to leave room for a gen set,but it did not leave enough room to open lid fully. So gen.will go in garage,and have to be carried out to use. Total cost with box,3 new batts. wiring,and misc hardware, approx. $450. Batts are sitting on a pc.of 3/4 x 11 1/2 pine,then a rubber mat. Thanks!
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Old 03-31-2013, 08:40 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rolling buckeye View Post
Thank you bikendan,I checked this with a tester,it is on tung,under old batt.tray. I have power at both terminals.
I did not cross any wires,there were only 4 one black 10 ga.one red 10 ga for tung jack with an inline fuse,jack and light in jack work. Then one white n one red in 4ga. White to frame,red to frame mounted, I called it fuse block, at this two terminal block,is where the power for breakaway is taken,then it is in looming,all the way under trailer,to where it enters trailer through floor,looks like it enters just behind breaker/fuse box. The first thing I did was unplugged 110,when I started,because I know it was trying to charge batts.so pulling wires through expanded steel,I took no chances Or so I thought! .???
Did you prep frame for ground connection. I've worked in 12v field for years and ground is usually the most overlooked.
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Old 03-31-2013, 08:52 AM   #7
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Did you prep frame for ground connection. I've worked in 12v field for years and ground is usually the most overlooked.
You're probly right,I did have a problem with ground,the factory eyelet easily,came off when I moved the ground wire, I reattached it and re-crimped. . Now that I think about it,when I tested with lighted tester,I put alligator clip on terminals at the reset box that bikendan referred to,and used probe end to ground at screw in frame,it is possible I got a false reading,maybe the recrimp is not good,and I got ground through screw not the wire! Thanks ill look at it,as soon as rain ends.
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Old 03-31-2013, 09:28 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by Rolling buckeye View Post

You're probly right,I did have a problem with ground,the factory eyelet easily,came off when I moved the ground wire, I reattached it and re-crimped. . Now that I think about it,when I tested with lighted tester,I put alligator clip on terminals at the reset box that bikendan referred to,and used probe end to ground at screw in frame,it is possible I got a false reading,maybe the recrimp is not good,and I got ground through screw not the wire! Thanks ill look at it,as soon as rain ends.
If you're using a multi meter, check and note battery voltage at posts. Keep 1 end at pos. Post and go to frame connection for ground. If the voltage is considerably lower, you have a poor ground at that connection. Make sure frame connections are free of rust and corrosion.
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Old 03-31-2013, 09:38 AM   #9
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Thanks,I've now re-checked, I have power at in side of small two terminal box mounted on frame, but not the out side.checked ground, is good. This two terminal box,does not have a reset butten.and it is not well installed from factory.there is a rubber skin on it,made to be closed over the terminals,to protect from elements.factory installed wires are in the way of closing the rubber cover,the terminals are somewhat corroded. I will remove it and check for a fuse,because there is no reset butten.
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Old 03-31-2013, 10:11 AM   #10
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This is the two terminal box from our new trailer,the factory install did not allow the cover to be closed to protect contacts. What you see is corrosion,NO wires were attached incorrectly!

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I could not get a pic.of it in place
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