Project rear kitchen bounce eliminator is underway!!!

[Iggy]

Mr. Black
Great Mod!

Now the only question is why you decided to cross brace the shackels front and rear?

Was it to strengthen the chanckles and decrease any side sway or tail shaking?

[Mr. Black]

Originally Posted by Iggy

Mr. Black
Great Mod!

Now the only question is why you decided to cross brace the shackels front and rear?

Was it to strengthen the chanckles and decrease any side sway or tail shaking?

Cross bracing the spring hangers. Not the shackles. The shackles move attached to the equalizer.

Certain trailer frames have super tall spring hangars. Mine are almost 10 inches long. Laterally there is a ton of flex. All this mod does is make a box out of the frame at the spring mounting points. Huge difference in stability just sitting in the driveway.

Here is a mor ryde version you can look at to see more of what it's about. Moderators feel free to remove this link if it violates something. Not here to sell anything. My kit was 20 bucks installed lol.

http://www.morryde.com/pdfs/New/3XFa...ossmembers.pdf

[NWJeeper]

No issue with the link Steve, it's perfectly fine. Does the cross bracing work similar to a track bar or would the addition of a track bar make a difference? I know usually with leaf springs a track bar (or pan hard bar) is optional but it does make a great difference on our rig.

[Mr. Black]

Actually a track bar would be really cool but probably overkill. axel coudn't move at all laterally with one. My F250 uses a track bar with leaf springs which really helps the manners compared to old trucks and jeeps from the 70s and 80s.

But yes, the cross bracing takes the same loads in the same directions but without a track bar there will still be that little bit of sideways flex in the springs.

John, have you ever seen someone back a trailer up jackknifed or close to it and then stop? 99% of the time you will notice the axles are all crooked under the camper. Looks like stuff is bent even though it really isn't. As soon as you drive straight again the axles float back to their neutral position. This bracing will help fight that.

Like I said earlier though, I am more curious to see if it helps at all just sitting in camp with the stabilizers down.

[MikeA]

Nice piece of work.

Mike

[NWJeeper]

Originally Posted by Mr. Black

John, have you ever seen someone back a trailer up jackknifed or close to it and then stop? 99% of the time you will notice the axles are all crooked under the camper. Looks like stuff is bent even though it really isn't. As soon as you drive straight again the axles float back to their neutral position. This bracing will help fight that.

I have this problem with the boat trailer as it is a tadem axle. Real PITA.

[Mr. Black]

Originally Posted by MikeA

Nice piece of work.

Mike

Thank you.

Preliminary test drive went well. I only went about 5 miles though. It feels totally different now. We will be heading out of town on friday. That will be the true test.

I think I actually need to adjust the rear shocks on my truck to a softer setting now.

My goal is to get the least amount of chucking without buying an aftermarket pin box. Well on our way.

[DCRC]

Good idea. Probably no big deal and a lot more work, but the only thing I would have done differently is built an upper bracket that put the top shock mount in double shear like the bottom mount.

It is possible that over time the upper mount could be torn off and rip a whole in the frame. I would just make it a practice for the first few trips to crawl under there and inspect your work for any signs of movement or stress cracks.

One other thing that needs to be considered is that shocks usually have a given installed height. That way you don't end up bottom or top out the shock during normal driving.

I agree shocks on a trailer are a great idea.

This thread has really got me interested in doing this. Google images comes up with some cool ideas and results for "trailer shocks" and "trailer shocks torsion axle"

[Mr. Black]

Originally Posted by DCRC

Good idea. Probably no big deal and a lot more work, but the only thing I would have done differently is built an upper bracket that put the top shock mount in double shear like the bottom mount.

One other thing that needs to be considered is that shocks usually have a given installed height. That way you don't end up bottom or top out the shock during normal driving.

1st, I thought about that, and then stopped thinking about that lol. You need to see how the frame and crossmembers (not the ones I added) are configured in the suspension area.

2nd, There must be a thousand shock mount applications out there in the real world that I have worked on where the shocks are mounted on a horizontal stud.

3rd, Yes I know there are shock operating lengths. That is how I came to the conclusion of the ones that I chose. They were found in a manufacturers shock spec book.

Not trying to come off as a know it all, and no I am not offended, but I am confident in my abilities in this area.


Like I said before. Take a look at Monroe's shock mounting kit (top and bottom) and we'll see what is stronger. Could I have made it stronger? Yes, does it need to be stronger? No

Took the trailer out for 300 miles this weekend over some of the bumpiest mountian roads around this area. All felt and looks awesome under the trailer.

I do agree with taking a look under the trailer every once in a while, but I do that already anyways.

I was actually disappointed in what came up for pics of "trailer shocks" in google. Not much out there that was practical for this application.

I say go for it though, I would like to see what others come up with.

[DCRC]

I'm sure your set up will be fine. I was just given my 2 cents and wasn't meaning to give you a hard time.

Only time I really have seen problems with the horizontial stud mount is when they were a bolt in type of installation and they had managed to loosen up and the ratcheting motion tore a hole in the frame, and the other time was due to a shock that seized up.

Unlike a coil over set up, which I usually deal with, your shock setup is not carrying the load, just dampening it.

Only reason I mentioned the shock installed height is for anyone else that planned to do this would know.