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Old 05-05-2015, 01:19 PM   #21
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Old Coot: My direction for the OP was do not use the bumper and if you want to add, see a fabricator/welder. My info about the factory rack on the 5er was directed at TURBS response. Sorry for any confusion. Regards, Bill
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Old 05-05-2015, 01:20 PM   #22
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Frame will not handle the weight, we have a Surveyor Sport with the rack and handles both of my Yamaha generators with ease.
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Old 05-05-2015, 01:33 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by deebarjay View Post
looking for ideas to build a platform to carry 2 Honda 2000's on back bumper....trailer is a 22ft rockwood minilite....warning sticker on bumper not to add anything..... pics if you have some would be great...thanks.
Hi, deebarjay...

I'm in the exact same situation your are in and I'm in search of a rear bumper hauling solution, as well. I've got a 2014 Rockwood Mini-Lite 1905.

I've also got a Honda EU3000is generator that I want to mount, along with other items, on the back of the trailer. Notice, I didn't say to the bumper. I've read enough about this to know that mounting a carrier with a 150-lb generator, gas can, etc., straight to the bumper is not going to work out well.

However, I did find this potential solution that I'm going to try out....slowly.

This site, https://www.mount-n-lock.com/, offers a couple of different approaches for using a rack on the back of your trailer.

The first approach is to replace your bumper with a stronger one, then use brackets attached to the frame to reinforce it.

The second approach is to attach brackets that go around your current bumper and attach directly to your frame, thereby strengthening your bumper.

This page also offers a modular carrier system that I like because I plan to put a large, aluminum toolbox on the carrier that I can secure to the carrier and dissuade thieves.

This site, Portable generator mounted on the back of an RV, or page, rather, shows a solution to mounting your generator (in this case 2 Honda's) inside an aluminum container, along with electrical supply, that allows you to run the generator(s) while inside the container.

My approach to our common problem will be to first purchase the brackets that will go around my current bumper and bolt directly to my frame and then attach any container mounts at the place on the bumper where the new bumper supports are mounted.

If the Mount-n-Lock system isn't strong enough, I'm considering cutting holes directly through the bumper straight through to the frame, where I can mount regular trailer hitch receivers directly to the frame, then mount a platform to hold the aluminum container using the square trailer hitch receivers.

I'm sure there's a way to get this done. It just depends on which approach holds the weight you're wanting to put on the back of the trailer.

The full system available for Mount-n-Lock (replacing your bumper with a stronger bumper, adding supports for the new bumper bolted to the frame), is supposed to hold up to 1,000 pounds, according to Mount-n-Lock.

I don't want to put but about 300 pounds on the back end, so I'm going to try the system without replacing my bumper and utilizing their frame-bolted bumper supports.

It'll just be trial-and-error (not on the road! ) of adding weight (such as cement block or bags of cement, etc.) to the container using any approach to determine what it's capacity is.

I haven't started this project, yet, but I'm ready to! I want to boon-dock a lot, and I'm not fond of hauling that 150-lb generator around on the inside, then having to carry it outside every time we stop overnight.

Post your progress, and I'll do the same. My email is rick at whitestonemedia.com, if you want contact me directly.

Good luck and I know we'll find a solution!

Rick
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Old 05-05-2015, 01:36 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by ksmith954 View Post
Frame will not handle the weight, we have a Surveyor Sport with the rack and handles both of my Yamaha generators with ease.
Your response is a little confusing to me. The first clause of your sentence states, "Frame will not handle the weight..." which seems to suggest that the trailer's frame won't handle the weight.

However, the second clause states, "we have a Surveyor Sport with the rack and (it?) handles both of my Yamaha generators with ease."

How is your rack attached, if not to the frame?
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Old 05-05-2015, 01:42 PM   #25
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Stryker_242: Your approach is similar to the way I first started down. I identified a bolt on hitch receiver that I was going to add stuff too. When I called Camping World to ask them who could install it for me, they asked me if I wanted it bolted on or welded. Thinking welded would be stronger, I said welded. They said "Oh, we don't do that here but there's a machine near by that we send all those jobs to". When I contacted their reference, he told me not to buy any receiver or brackets because he would custom fabricate them. The end of the story is, I got a much better, stronger rear solution and it ended up being cheaper too! I don't know where you live, but check out a machine shop or call your local RV dealer for a reference. It worked for me.
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Old 05-05-2015, 01:56 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by Stryker_242 View Post
...I'm in the exact same situation your are in and I'm in search of a rear bumper hauling solution, as well. I've got a 2014 Rockwood Mini-Lite 1905.

I've also got a Honda EU3000is generator that I want to mount, along with other items, on the back of the trailer. Notice, I didn't say to the bumper. I've read enough about this to know that mounting a carrier with a 150-lb generator, gas can, etc., straight to the bumper is not going to work out well.

However, I did find this potential solution that I'm going to try out....slowly.

This site, https://www.mount-n-lock.com/, offers a couple of different approaches for using a rack on the back of your trailer.

The first approach is to replace your bumper with a stronger one, then use brackets attached to the frame to reinforce it.

The second approach is to attach brackets that go around your current bumper and attach directly to your frame, thereby strengthening your bumper...
Good luck and I know we'll find a solution!

Rick
The second approach as well as the 1st approach depend on the frame and what we are telling you is the 3 pc welded frame is just not designed for adding anything whether welded to it or bolted. It just isn't in the cards to do what you want to do, but, it's your trailer and as usual, you can do as you want.
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Old 05-05-2015, 01:57 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by hbillsmith View Post
Stryker_242: Your approach is similar to the way I first started down. I identified a bolt on hitch receiver that I was going to add stuff too. When I called Camping World to ask them who could install it for me, they asked me if I wanted it bolted on or welded. Thinking welded would be stronger, I said welded. They said "Oh, we don't do that here but there's a machine near by that we send all those jobs to". When I contacted their reference, he told me not to buy any receiver or brackets because he would custom fabricate them. The end of the story is, I got a much better, stronger rear solution and it ended up being cheaper too! I don't know where you live, but check out a machine shop or call your local RV dealer for a reference. It worked for me.
Thanks for the info and that link in your previous reply. Looks promising.

If I'm not mistaken, for use the "TwinTube UBI, Slide-Out Hitch Rack" (TwinTube| Hitch Rack Cargo Carriers | Let's Go Aero), correct?

That would work if I were to cut holes through the existing bumper and attach the hitch receivers directly to the frame. (For those wondering, I believe that we have a full I-Beam frame on the Rockwood Mini-Lite. I'll have to double-check that. That's one thing I looked for months ago when I first starting thinking about a solution.)

If I could mount two hitch receivers on the ends of the I-Beams, then I could I could use a "TwinTube UBI, Slide-Out Hitch Rack" on each end of the bumper for greatly-increased strength. At $289 for each UBI Rack, that would be well worth the cost for the peace-of-mind!

I want this thing 3-times the carrying capacity as what I plan to put on it. I plan to carry up to around 300 pounds, so I want the system to be able to handle 900 pounds. That should be a sufficient safety (not to mention liability) buffer.

My approach is pay now, not later.
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Old 05-05-2015, 01:59 PM   #28
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Better plan to reinforce the whole frame from front to rear then.

Good luck!

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Old 05-05-2015, 02:00 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by OldCoot View Post
The second approach as well as the 1st approach depend on the frame and what we are telling you is the 3 pc welded frame is just not designed for adding anything whether welded to it or bolted. It just isn't in the cards to do what you want to do, but, it's your trailer and as usual, you can do as you want.
So, I guess you're certain that the i-beam frame on the Rockwood Mini-Lite is a 3-piece welded frame?
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Old 05-05-2015, 02:01 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by Stryker_242 View Post
So, I guess you're certain that the i-beam frame on the Rockwood Mini-Lite is a 3-piece welded frame?
Without a doubt absolutely!

Any forest river product that I've seen that is "mini light, ultra light, lite, mega light, has a three piece fabricated I beam.
Shoot I wouldn't even call it an I beam.

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