Remoted electric water heater switch

NWJeeper · 11-03-2009, 09:54 PM

Well I had done this on our last RV and had hoped that this new Georgetown being 15 years newer would already have had this as a standard feature. Imagine my dismay to find that the switch for the electric heating element was outside on the water heater. Not wanting to go outside to turn the element off or bend down to turn off the circuit breaker and because I was running wiring for the solar and inverter controls anyway, I ran and extra run for remoting the switch from the tank to the front of the cabinet below the kitchen sink. Why here you may ask? Because snaking wire into the panel where the control center with the rest of the switches is proved to be a real big pain in the butt. I managed to get my inverter control panel and solar charge readout in there but that was it. Now I have a lighted switch inside the rig to turn on or off the electric water heater element. The original switch was removed from it's hole and the wires unplugged from it. I then attached the wires run from the inside to those wires using spade connectors so it just plugged in. Wire loom will be added to protect the wires where they pass through the old switch hole in the picture.

milzat · 11-03-2009, 10:02 PM

Nice job.

**Bama Rambler** · 11-04-2009, 08:13 AM

I've thought of doing that very thing. One would think that since they already put the propane switch inside they'd put the electric switch right beside it. They already have to run two wires why not run two more??? That's what I get for thinking!

NWJeeper · 11-04-2009, 12:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bama Rambler

I've thought of doing that very thing. One would think that since they already put the propane switch inside they'd put the electric switch right beside it. They already have to run two wires why not run two more??? That's what I get for thinking!

LOL exactly what I was thinking Bama. In a rig that can lock the refrigerator door when you turn on the ignition how hard would it have been to run two more wires like you say. Yep I was thinking too....

cardinal4fun · 11-05-2009, 06:41 AM

Nice job, so how did you get the switch out of the heater? I have been looking at doing this for some time but was unsure about getting the switch out. Thanks

NWJeeper · 11-05-2009, 11:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cardinal4fun

Nice job, so how did you get the switch out of the heater? I have been looking at doing this for some time but was unsure about getting the switch out. Thanks

Just popped it out of it hole with my fingernail. Might require a small regular screwdriver if you don't have a fingernail. Be sure to turn off the circuit breaker before you do. You can relocate the existing switch inside and use a 2 condcutor wire or if you want to buy a lighted one like I used then run a 3 conductor wire, 2 for the power and 1 for the ground on the switch which makes the light work. Since I already had some 2 conductor wire run I just popped out the outlet next to the swich and attached the ground to the ground inside the outlet. Works great.

Don and Elaine · 11-06-2009, 08:06 PM

NWJeeper, Nice Job! Leave it to a "ham" to come up with a practical and good solution to a nagging issue! Love the mod and come this spring , it will be at the top of my to-do list! Thanks again!

edman87k5 · 11-07-2009, 02:04 PM

I plan to do somthing similar to my trailer. I do not like having to open the cover to turn the switch on and off every time. I was planning to just mount a switch in the outside cover though. I would still control it from outside, but wouldnt have to bother with the cover every time.

NWJeeper · 11-07-2009, 02:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by edman87k5

I plan to do somthing similar to my trailer. I do not like having to open the cover to turn the switch on and off every time. I was planning to just mount a switch in the outside cover though. I would still control it from outside, but wouldnt have to bother with the cover every time.

I don't think I would advise this for two reasons. First you would have to have a waterproof switch as water could get in and short it out. Secondly any kid walking by could turn on or off your element. Really not a good idea if there is no water in the tank but a switch out in the open like that is just inviting problems with the "curious".

edman87k5 · 11-09-2009, 06:48 PM

Ok, never thought about another kid or someone flipping the switch. The waterproofing I had under control.
My inside control panel is on the opposite side of the trailer and basicly in the center. Water heater is is front driver side corner. That is a long way to run wire unless it is low voltage power for a relay which I dont think it is. It would probably add 20' of wiring to a circuit that supports a decent load.
Am I wrong in thinking this is a bad idea?
How would I get it up to the wall control panel anyway?

NWJeeper · 11-09-2009, 09:20 PM

edman, You might not get it into the same panel with the rest of your switches if it is as hard to access as mine is, that is why I put it in the panel in front of the sink like I did. I had to drill a hole through the floor under the sink which is the top of one of the compartments, the wire then runs out the back of the compartment (through another hole) and back to the heater. It does take a bit of doing but it isn't impossible.

As for the wire run it isn't any different than the wiring to any other circuit or appliance in your rig, you just have to use the correct gauge. You already have AC wiring running from one end to the other of your trailer. In this case I chose 12 Ga wire/ 2 conductor which is in a casing similar to Romex but is braided instead of solid like Romex is. My run is approximately 12 feet of wire after all is said and done and after leaving the switch on and the element running for quite some period of time there is no discernible heat from the wire so no problem there.

edman87k5 · 11-09-2009, 11:06 PM

I am on crutches right now, but as soon as I can move good enough to have a good look at it, I will.
Mine is a lot different config than yours being that I have a tt, but it apparently aggrivates both of us the same. I would just like the switch where I dont have to open the water heater cover every time I want to switch.

NWJeeper · 11-10-2009, 12:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by edman87k5

I am on crutches right now, but as soon as I can move good enough to have a good look at it, I will.
Mine is a lot different config than yours being that I have a tt, but it apparently aggrivates both of us the same. I would just like the switch where I dont have to open the water heater cover every time I want to switch.

Sorry to hear your on crutches. I know exactly what you mean about the aggravation of the switch being outside. When you are back on your own feet take some time to open cabinets, compartments, trace wiring etc. Most RVs have electrical chases built in under the cabinets and behind furniture where you can use a long coat hangar wire or an electrical snake to pull wire through tight places. I like getting into things and projects like this because it familiarizes me with the inner workings of the rig and where things are located. Hope you get to feeling better soon.

**KyDan** · 11-10-2009, 07:50 AM

Hey Jeeper, I suggest you get some aluminum duct tape or just
fashion a patch out of a piece of metal-- even a tin can or beer
can! Cover that hole where the switch was. Also caulk that wire
that I see coming thru the back panel.
With those openings it would be possible for Carbon-monoxide to
get into the living quarters of your coach. This would be especially
possible if it was cold weather and you had windows closed
and an exhaust fan on inside.
It's really important to have this area totally sealed from
the inside of your coach.

You can't bee too careful with CO!!

NWJeeper · 11-10-2009, 11:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KyDan

Hey Jeeper, I suggest you get some aluminum duct tape or just
fashion a patch out of a piece of metal-- even a tin can or beer
can! Cover that hole where the switch was. Also caulk that wire
that I see coming thru the back panel.
With those openings it would be possible for Carbon-monoxide to
get into the living quarters of your coach. This would be especially
possible if it was cold weather and you had windows closed
and an exhaust fan on inside.
It's really important to have this area totally sealed from
the inside of your coach.

You can't bee too careful with CO!!

Thanks Dan, On the motorhomes the water heater is mounted in a rotocast compartment outside of the living area so there is no worries about the CO. I do plan on protecting the wires so that they cant rub against the metal opening though.

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