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Old 08-15-2014, 11:54 AM   #1
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screwing into the walls of FR TT

I have a 2014 FR 2304S with fiberglass sides. I would like to mount things like the toilet roll hanger, a towel rack and a few other small items to some of the outside walls (but on the inside) of my trailer. When doing the runthrough with my dealers tech he said not to screw into the outer walls. When I pushed for a reason he said because the walls are vaccumed sealed and I would puncture the seal. This doesn't make sense to me sense the brackets for the window shades are screwed into those walls.
Any advice? Thanks
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Old 08-15-2014, 12:06 PM   #2
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The walls are Vacuum Bonded with lots of glue when they are made. My walls have holes all over the place. I would be cautious outside and seal all holes and screws as keeping the water out prevents delamination.
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Old 08-15-2014, 02:06 PM   #3
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Vacuum Sealed!!! LMAO! The walls do keep longer if you vacuum seal them!!

I can not believe they continue to let idiots like that sell and work on campers...
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Old 08-15-2014, 02:22 PM   #4
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I think the vacuum sealing is to suck out air between the panels to allow the glue to set tighter and more uniform. I do not believe it holds a vacuum like a bottle and if you pop a hole in it the air will rush in.

That being said. There are lots of holds in the sides of your camper. Just chalk the holes.

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Old 08-15-2014, 02:23 PM   #5
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For the toilet paper holder it might be better to mount under a shelf or on the side of a cabinet. In our case we got a toilet paper holder that sits on the floor. Mount your towel holder to the back of the door, just remember they are hollow core doors and you may want to use blind nuts/mollys since the wood thickness is only about 1/4". For us we used a towel holder that hangs on the top of the door. Otherwise you need to find a wall stud which depending on the manufacturer may be either aluminum or wood. They may say studs are on 16" centers or such but don't depend on that, it may be 16"'s in one place and 20" in another or 15" in another. They don't really space them equally in an entire wall. Also, don't use long screws in a wall as they are only about 2 1/2" thick overall or less.
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Old 08-15-2014, 04:14 PM   #6
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Thanks for the replies. I was 99% sure the kid was mis-informed, but better safe than sorry.
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Old 08-15-2014, 06:10 PM   #7
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screwing into the walls of FR TT

We used extreme double sided tape and or gorilla glue(both bought on Ebay). We have used screws too; but, very short screws - to hold the items in place while tape/glue sets up and for esthetics. And do not underestimate the double sided tabs used for hanging 3M command hooks. You don't have to buy the hooks you can just get replacement tabs - use these a lot. Have 4 holding the TV in place (on its stand) in our bunkhouse ( at the end of 40 ft. 5ver).and, if you don't like where you put the holder, you can always move it.


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Old 08-15-2014, 06:32 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snowman56 View Post
I have a 2014 FR 2304S with fiberglass sides. I would like to mount things like the toilet roll hanger, a towel rack and a few other small items to some of the outside walls (but on the inside) of my trailer. When doing the runthrough with my dealers tech he said not to screw into the outer walls. When I pushed for a reason he said because the walls are vaccumed sealed and I would puncture the seal. This doesn't make sense to me sense the brackets for the window shades are screwed into those walls.

Any advice? Thanks

What will happen is: if you puncture the fiberglass, when the trailer flexes as you go down the road, the fiberglass will start cracking/flaking and you will wind up with water damage and eventually a larger hole. Spouse dropped trailer on truck bed and damaged cap of our 5ver. We were on our way to pack for vacation and had to wait for the fiberglass to be repaired. The repair shop referred to it as vacuum bonded.


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Old 08-15-2014, 06:55 PM   #9
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Here's a couple of pics from the Rockwood plant. One is the vacuum bond sidewall and the roof.
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Old 08-15-2014, 08:57 PM   #10
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Vacuum bonding holds the vacuum until the adhesive has set, then it is released. No way does an out-of-the-factory rig have any cavities still under negative pressure.
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Old 08-16-2014, 09:18 PM   #11
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I just mounted a rack on the back wall in the bath. I didn't hear any giant sucking sound when I screwed into it.

I just used regular screws and it looks like it's holding ok for now. Since the wall is paper thin and then Styrofoam, I may have to replace the screws with Molly screws however if the wife gets carried away with loading the little rack.

I want to add some shelves to the sides but not sure how to find the studs without buying one of those expensive stud finder that finds aluminum. I wonder if they work.
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Old 08-19-2014, 07:06 PM   #12
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industrial strength VELCRO!!

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Old 08-25-2014, 02:00 PM   #13
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Although I'm late to this thread, from my sailboat experience -

Foam core with fiberglass skins is a proven method of building a fairly strong structure (much stronger than the fiberglass or foam by itself) at a light weight. The glue bond between foam and fiberglass is critical to the composite structure's strength, which is why a vacuum is pulled during the gluing operation (as others have said).

The strongest attachment methods are

a) through-bolting with good-sized backing plates on both sides to spread the compression load over the thin fiberglass skin. Bolt holes should be caulked/sealed to prevent water intrusion into the foam and/or glue joint.

b) removing gel-coat, and expoxy glueing on a wood (or metal) mount plate to which the accessory is screwed.

Neither method lends itself to being reversed very well - although it is easier to fill empty bolt holes than remove a mounting plate.

just my experiences
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Old 08-26-2014, 10:34 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pgandw View Post
Although I'm late to this thread, from my sailboat experience -

Foam core with fiberglass skins is a proven method of building a fairly strong structure (much stronger than the fiberglass or foam by itself) at a light weight. The glue bond between foam and fiberglass is critical to the composite structure's strength, which is why a vacuum is pulled during the gluing operation (as others have said).

The strongest attachment methods are

a) through-bolting with good-sized backing plates on both sides to spread the compression load over the thin fiberglass skin. Bolt holes should be caulked/sealed to prevent water intrusion into the foam and/or glue joint.

b) removing gel-coat, and expoxy glueing on a wood (or metal) mount plate to which the accessory is screwed.

Neither method lends itself to being reversed very well - although it is easier to fill empty bolt holes than remove a mounting plate.

just my experiences
Fred W
Thanks for the info. Do you see any issues screwing things (molly screws, etccc) into the thin inside wall of the RV to install a shelf. I can't see how this could possibly do damage to the structual intergrety of the wall? (assuming you don't drill all the way thru to the outside, ha)
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Old 08-26-2014, 06:42 PM   #15
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We have used Command Strips for most of light weight items and has worked well. Planning to use a couple of screws and Command Strips for a shelf over the bed.
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Old 08-26-2014, 07:05 PM   #16
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We have used Command Strips for most of light weight items and has worked well. Planning to use a couple of screws and Command Strips for a shelf over the bed.
Command strips, thanks. I must admit, I had to look that up as I didn't know what that was but it's a great idea. We have one in the shower holding up a pretty heavy rack of shampoo etc... and has been there for years. Thanks for the tip!
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Old 08-31-2014, 09:37 AM   #17
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Here's how I added some shelves to a hanging clothes cabinet. It's ok to be critical, I want honest opinions and recommendations as I want to learn from everyone's input.

RV Shelve Project - YouTube
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Old 09-08-2014, 05:18 PM   #18
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... not sure how to find the studs without buying one of those expensive stud finder that finds aluminum. I wonder if they work.
Push on the wall with your thumb. It will not give where there are studs. Just take a look around it when you find one to make sure it isn't a pipe or electrical behind it.
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Old 09-09-2014, 03:12 PM   #19
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Push on the wall with your thumb. It will not give where there are studs. Just take a look around it when you find one to make sure it isn't a pipe or electrical behind it.
unfortunately, that doesn't work on my type of wall which has foam behind the wall so it's all hard. plywood, foam core and fiberglass outside.
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Old 01-19-2015, 11:23 AM   #20
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Hi you may want to have at a look this thread "Salem Cruise Lite 195BH TV mount"

there are a few ideas on how to solve your concerns.
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