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Old 01-13-2015, 01:53 PM   #1
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Some Work and Play toy hauler modifications

We recently purchased a 2014 Work and Play 28 FBW, which has creature comforts in the front (kitchen, bathroom, shower, etc.) but has a huge cargo area in the back.

It's perfect for race weekends and camping trips too!

Of course, being engineers, we couldn't help but immediately start modifying it!

Tired of packing and unpacking tools, the first mod was a tool box. I noticed that there was about 20" between the edge of the kitchen counter and the fold-up sofa, so went to Harbor Freight to shop. Most of their standard tool chests are 24" or wider, but there was an "add-on" box that is meant to attach to a larger tool chest. 18" wide, so it was perfect!



We also have a quiet little air compressor that fits in the same footprint, so I welded up a steel frame to bolt to the box and floor, and leaves room for the compressor.



The frame bolts through the floor (1" FRP in the work and play) and bolts through the sides of the bottom of the tool box. There's even a lock in the box to keep the drawers from coming out when travelling.
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Old 01-13-2015, 02:58 PM   #2
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The trailer came only with 12 VDC incandescent lights. OK for mood lighting, but leaves a lot to be desired if you're trying to work inside. A fluorescent light option is available from the factory but did not come with this trailer.

We picked up some fixtures from the local hardware store, and bought Jacky LED retrofits for the bulbs. To use them, you rewire the fixture to bypass the ballast, then just install the bulbs like normal.

Power comes from the 120 VAC outlets in the bottoms of the cabinets. We installed a light switch next to the outlet, tapping the power wiring inside, and ran a power wire up through the cabinet then along the roof.

These suckers are BRIGHT! Since each fixture has a switch, either or both can be used. We're considering an inverter to run the lights and network gear when AC power is not available.

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Old 01-27-2015, 05:49 PM   #3
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looks good, I have a 30fbw and have been doing some mods to.
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Old 02-03-2015, 06:02 PM   #4
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heres some of mine





the button looking thing is the spare tire made a cover for it and use it as a step to get in bed
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Old 02-03-2015, 06:27 PM   #5
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Wow your WP looks much different than ours.
We have a 2014 WP25ULA... once all the bugs have been worked out.. we love it.
She "ULA" spent a total of 16 weekds at the dealer gettign warranty items fixed
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Old 02-03-2015, 06:28 PM   #6
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We had the vinyl woodgrain floor run all the way throught the cargo area... and glad we did. This was my hubby's idea.
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Old 09-18-2015, 09:47 PM   #7
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30fbw here. Added front tie downs. Door bumper to keep the bathroom door off the cabinets. A good sized tote with toys for the kids. Plywood under the mattress to eliminate the sagging. And maybe most important a privacy curtain just ahead of the rear lights leaving plenty of room to stand and get dressed.

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Old 09-19-2015, 06:19 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shuko View Post
The trailer came only with 12 VDC incandescent lights. OK for mood lighting, but leaves a lot to be desired if you're trying to work inside. A fluorescent light option is available from the factory but did not come with this trailer.

We picked up some fixtures from the local hardware store, and bought Jacky LED retrofits for the bulbs. To use them, you rewire the fixture to bypass the ballast, then just install the bulbs like normal.

Power comes from the 120 VAC outlets in the bottoms of the cabinets. We installed a light switch next to the outlet, tapping the power wiring inside, and ran a power wire up through the cabinet then along the roof.

These suckers are BRIGHT! Since each fixture has a switch, either or both can be used. We're considering an inverter to run the lights and network gear when AC power is not available.

Nice to see some W&P owners and their mods. We have an 2007 34RL.

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ner-52037.html

My wife and I have been restoring / modifying it.

I am curious about the "E" track you have on your walls. How did you attach that and how much of a load, are you comfortable putting on those?

I added some "D" rings to the floor, but no "E" track. I use a "EZ chock" type set up when hauling motorcycles.

My last trailer was full of "E" track. I love the stuff, but my wife did not want it on the floor, for fear it would be rough on bare feet. (grandkids).

Since all of my tie down points are on the floor, some on the walls can come in handy, but with our solid wall construction, not sure about mounting and load capacity.
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Old 09-19-2015, 10:04 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 036.6turbo View Post

My last trailer was full of "E" track. I love the stuff, but my wife did not want it on the floor, for fear it would be rough on bare feet. (grandkids).
This is the same reason we just added 2 D'rings up front under the couch and dinette. We have 2 girls, 6 and 2. They dont know how to walk. They only have 2 speeds, Full and stop.
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Old 09-20-2015, 12:10 PM   #10
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I have to try an figure out a ramp extension for my W&P. I thought my barracuda would be high enough because I don't have problems with driveways...

WRONG!

Hit the exhaust and mangled the aluminum edging that protects the flooring... damn it anyway.
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Old 09-20-2015, 12:52 PM   #11
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Possibly use the tongue jack, to raise the front of the trailer, when loading / unloading the car?
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Old 09-20-2015, 01:54 PM   #12
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I had it tongue high a couple inches
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