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Old 01-20-2015, 12:00 PM   #1
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Wink stinky slinky mod

I know I have read about using a fence post and hotter to make this mod but would like a little more info concerning the length, the width how to attach caps and of course the same on the gutter. I intend to use u-bolts to attach to bumper. Help if you can and remember that I am a woman if that makes a difference. Lol
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Old 01-20-2015, 12:12 PM   #2
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I used pop rivets. I had to buy the tool ($25 or so) and basically used it to attach everything together.

You have to drill a hole first for the rivet fit through and then you just squeeze the tool to pop-one in.

A couple of places where I thought things might catch, I just filled the backside of the rivet down. As you assemble it, it'll be clear.

As for lengths, I went for the full 8' so that I didn't have to cut the fence post. I did have to cut the gutter and used a fine tooth hand saw for that. I just cut the gutter an inch or two shorter.

The fence post is the 5" size and the gutter is the same. The fence post end caps are in the same area as the fence post. Make sure you get gutter that is symmetrical when you look at it from the end. It makes a slightly better tray that way. In the same aisle near the gutter will be the end caps.

My latch came out of the hardware area. And I use small hitch pins to hold it shut.
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Old 01-20-2015, 12:12 PM   #3
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Wish I had pictures but the camper is in for work and I've switched phones since then.
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Old 01-20-2015, 07:58 PM   #4
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Thanks! You gave me more help than you know. Now for a little extra cash and a warm weekend.
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Old 01-20-2015, 08:20 PM   #5
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We did the same thing with the pop rivets, bought one at Harbor Freight for around 10 bucks, worked great.
Make sure you get the 5x5 post (vs 4x4) as I don't think you can do the gutter slide in the smaller posts. We also bought gutter end caps and pop riveted them in to the gutter, and then screwed a handle on one end. Only cut the gutter down, used a fine tooth saw like ependydad suggested. Make sure it's at least a few inches shorter if you want to put a handle on it.
We also used pop rivets to put on hinges and a latch on one end cap. Total, I think it took us a couple of hours to build, and we also drilled holes in the fence post and the gutter for drainage and airflow.
My husband and I have a class A, so no bumper for us, once we get out in the spring we'll use some giant zip ties to put it underneath the chassis somewhere.
We only needed a pop river gun, a drill, a hacksaw and a screwdriver to complete, it's a pretty straightforward thing to do. The pop rivets are FUN. I had never used them until now, and they were really easy to use.
Good luck!
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Old 01-21-2015, 11:27 AM   #6
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I use fence post storage myself, but not for the slinky (I paint the inside of my bumper carriers with POR-15 after drilling drain holes in the bottom - has worked on past 4 campers fine). I use them to store awning braces (I have an electric awning that I made wind props for), fire tools (cooking forks, pie irons, log tongs), and my awning mat. You're going to cut the fence post somewhere around an 8-foot length give or take a few inches either way depending if you wanted more tucked out of sight or more easily accessed. Another thing you can do with end caps is to attach them with a pair of draw latches:

McMaster-Carr

I use stainless steel ones attached with low-expansion aluminum rivets (you can cause the PVC to crack if you use the wrong rivet). Two latches per cap, mounted on opposing sides. The reason I do this is because I like to take the entire cap off and out of the way, but more importantly because I have installed weatherstripping on the inside of the caps so that my tubes, except for the awning mat one, are sealed from the elements and insects.

Also, note that you might need to shim your tube off the frame rails a little bit to clear things like gas lines or the J-wrap (bottom trim panels on some campers) so you're U-bolts might need to be longer than you think.
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Old 01-21-2015, 11:36 AM   #7
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Does the 5x5 fence post accept the slinky and the 90 elbow as well?
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Old 01-21-2015, 11:38 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by cdangel0 View Post
Does the 5x5 fence post accept the slinky and the 90 elbow as well?

My elbow, wye, sewer donut, and some caps live in a tote in the storage hatch. My plan is to mount a battery box on the bumper to move them there.
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Old 01-21-2015, 11:40 AM   #9
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Does the 5x5 fence post accept the slinky and the 90 elbow as well?

My cheap rigid 90 would fit but not the swivel rhino 90. I bought a swivel 135 (mislabeled as a swivel 45) instead that fits in the post.




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Old 01-21-2015, 12:03 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Triple SS View Post
I know I have read about using a fence post and hotter to make this mod but would like a little more info concerning the length, the width how to attach caps and of course the same on the gutter. I intend to use u-bolts to attach to bumper. Help if you can and remember that I am a woman if that makes a difference. Lol
Been there, done than, have the Mod Sandy (I think I demo'ed it as last year's BamaGanza

Here is the thread I started on the subject (complete with pictures!)

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ods-57842.html
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Old 01-24-2015, 06:32 PM   #11
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Ok I go out to measure bumper in order to know what I need to attach stinky slinky mod to bumper and fine a sticker that says "addition of any non-factory installed components to bumper assembly is prohibited and may void chassis warranty". Now where does that leave me?
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Old 01-24-2015, 06:49 PM   #12
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Ok I go out to measure bumper in order to know what I need to attach stinky slinky mod to bumper and fine a sticker that says "addition of any non-factory installed components to bumper assembly is prohibited and may void chassis warranty". Now where does that leave me?
Mount it to the trailer frame just behind the tires, you will not be adding anything to the bumper that way.

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