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Old 06-05-2014, 08:10 PM   #1
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Surge Protector

Reading a lot of threads on this site about the need for a surge protector, I decided to put one in. One thread in particular showed using 30A couplers on each side so you could bypass it if needed. Very smart, so I copied it.

Basically, you put a male 30a coupler on one side and a female on the other. then put another set in the power line leading to your converter. Luckily, my toy hauler came with a transfer switch, which made it easy.
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Old 06-06-2014, 06:57 AM   #2
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I've thought about doing it that way too, but 2 pairs of 50amp plugs would not be cheap.
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Old 06-06-2014, 08:42 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by davel1971 View Post
I've thought about doing it that way too, but 2 pairs of 50amp plugs would not be cheap.
If you watch ebay you can in fact get them cheap.

I found a set of 4 50 amp twist locks for my friend for $70.00

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Old 06-06-2014, 12:08 PM   #4
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Two pairs of 30a plugs cost me $60 on Amazon. The surge supressor was about $250. After reading the horror stories on this site about power issues, the price was worth it to me.
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Old 06-06-2014, 12:35 PM   #5
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Another frf member recently picked up a set of 4 30 amp plugs for $38.00

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Old 06-06-2014, 12:38 PM   #6
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30amp plugs are WAY cheaper then 50amp

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Old 06-07-2014, 08:08 PM   #7
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Notto bring down this post but for 3 years I have been watching posts and trying to understand the positive in connectors. My positive, not trying to hurt any feelings, is money and time. I don’t understand why you would do this inside the camper; they sell the unit for outside the camper w/connectors and it cost more its also weather proof.
Is it bad to put in connectors 30amp or 50amp , absolutely not it works great but why, they cost a bit and have to be more work(7 x3=21 connections instead of 3x3=9(_x4 for 50amp)) . If you are moving this device between multiple campers weekly/monthly/yearly it could save several minutes or if you need to do it while the wires are HOT.
For me, I pulled the wires out from the converter and installed in the unit, added 2ft of wire(x3; which you need any ways) from unit back to converter and done. Well not exactly, I ran the signal wire for remote display next to the heating ducting, fished it up the wall and out to where all the other displays and controls are(this took more time than the main install). Looks great and makes me sleep better at night.
Am I missing something with connecters? Even if I pull this unit for my next camper the original wires will still fit or even easier wire nuts and tape.
I want to learn, that’s why I’m here…. I have spent several nights trying to find the better…..
It all works and it makes good sense to have an A/C monitoring unit. Maybe there is no bad way, just do it. I figure it’s like paying insurance; you hope you never need it & might never need it, but so glad you have it when you do need it.
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Old 06-07-2014, 09:24 PM   #8
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To me $60 is no big deal, I live in the lightning capital of the world. If I'm in the middle of nowhere and something goes wrong with the unit - or if it takes a surge and fries - I can bypass it in minutes. When back in town, buy a new one and snap it in. But, to each his own. if you feel you will never have a problem with it, or don't mind rewiring when you do, then hard wiring is the way to go.
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Old 06-08-2014, 11:56 PM   #9
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I just order the PI EMS-HW30C. What is the NEMA # or Hubbell part # for the 30A plugs? I looked on eBay and saw plugs rated at 125V, 250V and 480V. Is there any need for plugs rated higher than 125V?
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Old 06-09-2014, 08:25 AM   #10
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I just order the PI EMS-HW30C. What is the NEMA # or Hubbell part # for the 30A plugs? I looked on eBay and saw plugs rated at 125V, 250V and 480V. Is there any need for plugs rated higher than 125V?
L 5 30 I believe.

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