Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 07-01-2010, 06:16 AM   #1
Jas
Senior Member
 
Jas's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Suffolk, VA
Posts: 130
Surveyor OEM lift kit installation

Since my camper has been down for the past few weeks due to warrenty repairs, I figured that this 4th of July I would skip the planned trip and work on some updates. I have been having problems hitting the skid bars in the very gentle slope of my driveway due to the crown of the road vs angle of the drive so I decided to go ahead and get the lift kit from Forest River.

The kit cost $150 and is little more than a few pieces of 2" w x 4" h x 1/8" thk chanel with gussets welded at both ends and the middle to siffent them up. They supply enough grade 5 hardware to mount the spacers to the frame but you have to reuse the axle hardware which appears to have an all metal "deforming" style of self locking nut. Not sure if this will be damaged or reuseable once removed. I got the kit from the Surveyor div parts dept:
(Surveyor series & R-pod parts & service: 574-642-3119 )

I have the lift kit now and will be getting my camper back this weekend. The kit will raise the whole trailer about 3" which should give plenty of clearance. Will post pics once I get the trailer back.
__________________

__________________
Jas is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-01-2010, 09:14 AM   #2
Senior Member
 
milzat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Prairieville, Louisiana
Posts: 1,927
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jas View Post
The kit will raise the whole trailer about 3" which should give plenty of clearance. Will post pics once I get the trailer back.
We will be waiting for those step-by-step pictures.
__________________

__________________
milzat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-01-2010, 10:59 AM   #3
Moderator Emeritus
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 801
If the nuts are a "pinch" style of locking nut, they can chew up the threads of the bolts when removed.
__________________
2017 Chevrolet K2500HD, Husky W/D hitch
2009 Rockwood 2106 Mini-Lite
Nights camped 2010: 21
Nights camped 2011: 17
Nights camped 2012: 8
https://inlinethumb45.webshots.com/3...600x600Q85.jpg
revrnd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-01-2010, 05:49 PM   #4
Jas
Senior Member
 
Jas's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Suffolk, VA
Posts: 130
I know about the nuts. Unfortunately, I have to know that sort of thing for my job. I will know for sure when I get it apart. For now, here are the pics of the drop brackets....
Attached Images
  
__________________
Jas is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-01-2010, 05:59 PM   #5
Moderator Emeritus
 
MtnGuy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Shenandoah Valley
Posts: 9,274
Wow, I was expecting something a little more substantial. Not to hijack the thread, but I added a lift to my Trailmanor with torsion axles, and it looked like this:

Click image for larger version

Name:	Capture 40.JPG
Views:	2873
Size:	34.1 KB
ID:	2760

Click image for larger version

Name:	Capture 50.JPG
Views:	6615
Size:	42.4 KB
ID:	2761
__________________

Chap , DW Joy, and Fur Baby Sango
2017 F350 Lariat CCSB, SRW, 4x4, 6.7 PS
2017 Grand Design Reflection 337RLS
MtnGuy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-03-2010, 02:47 PM   #6
Jas
Senior Member
 
Jas's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Suffolk, VA
Posts: 130
got it installed. The old axle fasteners were reusable! Biggest lesson learned is to make an alignment mark on the frame and axle before unbolting. It took a while to get the first axle back on square to the other 3 tires. I finally drew a straight line between the 2 pieces so it could be lined up again. The ride height went up from 21" to 25". I may need a new set of steps though as the first step is just over a foot off the ground now. There really isn't much to is so here are the pics!

A warning here, make sure to pull slack into the brake wires prior to disconnecting the axle. 3 of mine had plenty of slack hiding in the underbelly, the 4th needed to be extended.

These are the pre-operation pics with the final ride height pic. The actual procedure will be in the next post
Attached Images
    
__________________
Jas is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-03-2010, 02:53 PM   #7
Jas
Senior Member
 
Jas's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Suffolk, VA
Posts: 130
pt 2:

notice the jack stands, you need to make sure they are running in line and under the I-beam. The first attempt to set the trailer down with the ears of the jack stand perpendicular started to bend the thin flange of the i-beam.

The instructions that come with the kit are vague but they are very specific that all of the fasteners be torqued to 120 ft-lbs. I snugged everything up with an impact, verified alignment and rough torqued to 100 ft-lbs. I then checked that the brakes still worked which is a lot easier to fix with the wheels already off. Finally I set it on the ground and final torqued everything twice. Just like the lug nuts, you have to go back around a second time to make sure everything is tight.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	DSC00726.jpg
Views:	1583
Size:	42.9 KB
ID:	2772  
Attached Images
    
__________________
Jas is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-03-2010, 05:57 PM   #8
Moderator Emeritus
 
MtnGuy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Shenandoah Valley
Posts: 9,274
Ah ha, now I see why tubular steel can't be used. Thanks for the pics.
__________________

Chap , DW Joy, and Fur Baby Sango
2017 F350 Lariat CCSB, SRW, 4x4, 6.7 PS
2017 Grand Design Reflection 337RLS
MtnGuy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-03-2010, 09:39 PM   #9
Senior Member
 
milzat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Prairieville, Louisiana
Posts: 1,927
Great job, Jas.

Thanks for posting the pics.
__________________
milzat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-04-2010, 08:47 AM   #10
Jas
Senior Member
 
Jas's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Suffolk, VA
Posts: 130
the center of the top axle mounting holes is right at the center of the i-beam and the flange is so ridiculously flimsy that I wouldn't want to try and bolt to it. With 2 jack stands and the floor jack on the i-beam I still bent the flange a little when jacking it up. It is just strong enough to hold the camper together. The little bit of reinforcement that Forest River did install at the axle connections is just barely enough to hold the load. It's the sacrifice you have to make between strength and weight.
The only safe place to jack these campers up is right under the axle attachment flange. I could see some deformation where I had previously used a bottle jack centered between the tires directly under the i-beam center line.
__________________

__________________
Jas is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




ForestRiverForums.com is not in any way associated with Forest River, Inc. or its associated RV manufacturing divisions.


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:23 AM.