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Old 09-25-2011, 08:09 PM   #21
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Finished my electrical system project today, in time for 5 nights of boondocking next weekend at the NA$CAR race in Dover!

First, I ran 12-3 Romex from the Xantrex to an area inside the TT adjacent to where the TT's 120v, 30A twist-lock male wall plug is located (for feeding the TT). I then put a 120v "standard" plug on one end of the Romex, so that it could be plugged into the Xantrex GFIC outlet.

Next step was to install a 120v duplex outlet with a flush-mount weatherproof box, right next to the 30A twistlock box. This outlet is fed by the other end of the Romex.

Final step was to connect a 30A, 125V female plug to 2' of 12-3 power cord, and a 120v "standard" male plug to the opposite end, making a 2' long adapter / lead-cord. I can now plug the 120v supply from the Xantrex into the TT feed with the 2' lead-cord.

By minimizing my microwave use (my heaviest 120V draw), switching the fridge to "propane", instead of "auto", and turning off the 120v to 12v converter breaker (so that I'm not trying to recharge the batteries with the 120v charger, which is drawing it's power from the batteries, through the Xantrex), I can now power-up all of my inside and outside 120v outlets.

All parts came from the local Home Depot. Cost, you ask???:

Two "standard" male plugs - $12
One 30A, 120v female plug - $30
One 120v duplex outlet in flush-mount weather proof box - $24
2' of 12-3 power cord - $4
24' of 12-3 Romex - free (on a spool in my basement, left over from a previous home project)

Total Cost: $70

Looking forward to seeing how well it works this upcoming weekend!
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Old 10-27-2011, 09:54 AM   #22
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Help with Solar Install

I have purchased everything needed to install my 120w solar panel, but I'm stuck on how to run the wire from the panel to the battery compartment. I have been on the roof and see the fridge vent, but I don't see where it leads to.
I really don't want to have pull my fridge just to run the wire. Does anyone have pics and details on how I can snake my wire down to my battery compartment. I have 2002 Sierra Toyhauler. I've been inside every compartment in the unit, and I don't see where any vent leads to from the roof.

Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you,
Kerry
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Old 10-27-2011, 10:22 AM   #23
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I have purchased everything needed to install my 120w solar panel, but I'm stuck on how to run the wire from the panel to the battery compartment. I have been on the roof and see the fridge vent, but I don't see where it leads to.
I really don't want to have pull my fridge just to run the wire. Does anyone have pics and details on how I can snake my wire down to my battery compartment. I have 2002 Sierra Toyhauler. I've been inside every compartment in the unit, and I don't see where any vent leads to from the roof.

Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you,
Kerry
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Old 10-27-2011, 02:37 PM   #24
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I've been inside every compartment in the unit, and I don't see where any vent leads to from the roof.
If you take the fridge roof vent off, you will be looking down the back of the fridge, and should be able to access the outside door of the fridge. This is where the burner and the electrical connections are. Run the wire down this "chimney", then go from there to get the controller and batteries.
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Old 10-28-2011, 11:46 AM   #25
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How was the Dover trip with your current set up??
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Old 10-28-2011, 02:25 PM   #26
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I can now power-up all of my inside and outside 120v outlets.
I did a similar wiring activity on my TT. Home Depot sells a flexible conduit jacketed 12/2 romex product that was perfect for routing underneath the trailer. I ran that from the front storage area where my Xantrex inverter is to the converter/distribution panel near the rear. I hardwired it into a WFCO autotransfer switch. The only electrical devices that cannot be powered by this circuit are the reefer, the converter (don't want to charge the battery with the battery, right?), and the air conditioner. It works well. I split the distribution panel so that in effect there is a sub-panel with the convenience outlets and the microwave on it. I have a remote power switch inside the trailer to turn on the inverter whenever I want A/C power. This comes in handy with all of the laptop computers we have.
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Old 10-30-2011, 03:55 AM   #27
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How was the Dover trip with your current set up??
Outstanding! Ran the generator for about a total of five minutes all weekend, even with the cold and rain. That was just to run the microwave for the wife's morning hot chocolate or to mw some bacon!

Likely next year I'll add the second pair of 6-volt batteries, and then it should run the MW without a hiccup!
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Old 10-30-2011, 06:36 PM   #28
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I am thinking of adding two more batteries next. Use the genny and then see if solar makes sense or gets cheaper next year.
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Old 11-13-2011, 09:46 AM   #29
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Are the solar wire clips used on the roof caulked on, or are they screwed in as well? Are they a solar-specific part, or something from Home Depot?
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Old 11-13-2011, 10:14 AM   #30
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Nylon coax cable clips, about $1.39 a pack at Home Depot, attached with a stainless steel screw (no rust), all sealed with a dab of Dicor. The clips allow for a little movement of the cable, as the panel wires are a slightly smaller diameter than coax, but that's OK, as it holds them in place.

I also needed a loop of slack cable at the panel end, as I need it to tilt the panel up at the front end if the trailer is oriented N/S, hitch facing north.
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