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Old 05-15-2014, 09:44 PM   #21
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Like many that have replied, I also drain mine each trip unless I am going out within 7-10 days. Yes, water does go stagnant, and although you don't drink the hot water, you might smell it, it might run over your face and mouth if you shower. Some people also don't have really good water from their faucets at home. Some folks might have a high concentration of iron, and well water. Lastly, people who don't travel with water and fill up at a state campground will likely be using well water. If that was me, I wouldn't want it stilling in my tank or lines either.
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Old 05-15-2014, 10:19 PM   #22
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My buddy filled with well water at a Flying J and parked at a racetrack for a week. When he came back a week later his water smelled like sewage. I drain every time because its rally easy and I don't like stinky water. Good mod, but I have to pull the anode.
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Old 05-21-2014, 07:06 AM   #23
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Nice Mod
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Old 05-21-2014, 07:28 AM   #24
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I like to drain mine after every trip also. Like others have said, I drain the entire system. My water heater looks exactly like the OP picture. Mine is gas only so I turn the switch off before I leave the campground. Draining the WH every time flushes any crud that may be sitting on the bottom of the tank preventing build up.
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Old 05-31-2014, 08:28 PM   #25
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I like this project. I don't drain mine every time, but I did have to replace an element last week, and the water that came out looked good, even though the water had been in there for 2 1/2 weeks. I didn't drain it all out though. Just to the element level. I'm going to look into this. Thanks for the post.
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Old 06-01-2014, 07:53 AM   #26
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Once again; do not remove the anode in a Suburban water heater to do this mod. That anode is critical to the life of your steel water tank.

For Suburbans, the correct way to drain the hot water heater is to close the water valves to bypass the water heater (prevents crud from getting into your water lines from the tank bottom) and removing the anode.
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Old 06-01-2014, 08:57 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Herk7769 View Post
Once again; do not remove the anode in a Suburban water heater to do this mod. That anode is critical to the life of your steel water tank.

For Suburbans, the correct way to drain the hot water heater is to close the water valves to bypass the water heater (prevents crud from getting into your water lines from the tank bottom) and removing the anode.
Seems to me just opening all the faucets to mid range (between hot/cold) for air trapment that all water flow will be towards that big anode rod hole when rod is removed. No?
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Old 06-01-2014, 02:45 PM   #28
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If I own a HOT water heater, do I need a COLD water heater too.... Sorry just had to say it....
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Old 06-01-2014, 03:56 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bubbles View Post
Seems to me just opening all the faucets to mid range (between hot/cold) for air trapment that all water flow will be towards that big anode rod hole when rod is removed. No?
If you get in the habit of always closing the valves before you remove the anode or do any water maintenance, you won't forget when it comes time to drain the plumbing.

Additionally, once the anode is removed, the heater can "burp" as water will be flowing out of the anode hole faster than the small diameter hot water pipe at the top can let air in. This back pressure can stir up the sediment and it only takes one small nodule to get in the cold pipe to ruin an otherwise pleasant day.

Obviously, it is a technique and not a "law", but having been the recipient of a calcium nodule in my toilet flush valve before I found out I was doing it in a risky fashion. (not closing the valves).

Your call, of course.
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Old 06-01-2014, 04:10 PM   #30
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X2 Herk, Bubbles, listen to your elders.
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