Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 10-26-2010, 02:34 PM   #1
The Old Man
 
Willis's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Huntersville, NC
Posts: 330
Water Heater Switch with Power-on Light

Here are the steps to install a water heater switch with power-on indicator light inside the cabin.

Water heater shown plugged into existing 110AC outlet. It should be an obvious point, but please turn off the power source at the panel before starting!
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	100_0404.jpg
Views:	610
Size:	54.0 KB
ID:	3709  
__________________

__________________
2010 Flagstaff 829RGSS

Still to go: AK, NL, NT, NU, YT
Willis is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-26-2010, 02:35 PM   #2
The Old Man
 
Willis's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Huntersville, NC
Posts: 330
Existing box removed and new deeper box installed. This view shows wires coming from the existing 110AC source.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	100_0407.jpg
Views:	323
Size:	54.1 KB
ID:	3710  
__________________

__________________
2010 Flagstaff 829RGSS

Still to go: AK, NL, NT, NU, YT
Willis is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-26-2010, 02:37 PM   #3
The Old Man
 
Willis's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Huntersville, NC
Posts: 330
This view shows the new box wired up.

To install a lighted switch requires a 3-conductor wire. Normally, a simple switch loop only requires 2-conductors in which the black wire is hot and the white wire is used as the return loop to the power source to be switched. In the normal switch-loop the white wire MUST be marked as hot, usually with black tape on each end.

A lighted switch, however, needs a neutral wire to work correctly so the normal 2-wire loop will not work. With all that in mind, use 3-conductors as such:

1. The black wire (TO switch) is joined with a nut to the black (hot) power source.

2. The red wire is the hot return FROM the switch (seen below attached to the brass screw).

3. The white neutral source is joined with the neutral from the switch and a short jumper which is attached to the silver screw on the receptacle (left side just out of view in this photo).

4. All ground wires are joined together and a jumper attached to the receptacle's grounding screw.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	100_0411.jpg
Views:	307
Size:	55.0 KB
ID:	3711  
__________________
2010 Flagstaff 829RGSS

Still to go: AK, NL, NT, NU, YT
Willis is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-26-2010, 02:38 PM   #4
The Old Man
 
Willis's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Huntersville, NC
Posts: 330
Next, a box is installed to receive the new switch.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	100_0406.jpg
Views:	310
Size:	51.2 KB
ID:	3712  
__________________
2010 Flagstaff 829RGSS

Still to go: AK, NL, NT, NU, YT
Willis is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-26-2010, 02:39 PM   #5
The Old Man
 
Willis's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Huntersville, NC
Posts: 330
The 3-conductor romex is run to the new box. In my case, the new switch is just on the other side of the under-sink cabinet door which can be seen on the right of the photo below. So all I had to do was run the romex over the top of the door opening and attach with some cable ties. Obviously, the location of the switch and the routing of the wires will be different on every installation and is beyond the scope of this post.

The black wire goes on the brass screw (top right in this photo, out of view). The red wire goes on the black screw (shown below). The two black screws are connected internally so it doesn't matter which one is used. Finally, the white wire is attached to a silver screw (bottom right, out of view in this photo). This white (neutral) wire is what allows a circuit to light the switch when it is turned on. And of course, don't forget to attach the ground.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	100_0409.jpg
Views:	290
Size:	53.3 KB
ID:	3713   Click image for larger version

Name:	100_0412.jpg
Views:	306
Size:	53.8 KB
ID:	3714  
__________________
2010 Flagstaff 829RGSS

Still to go: AK, NL, NT, NU, YT
Willis is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-26-2010, 02:41 PM   #6
The Old Man
 
Willis's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Huntersville, NC
Posts: 330
Finished view of the switch. Plug in the water heater and the job is done.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	100_0414.jpg
Views:	309
Size:	51.1 KB
ID:	3715   Click image for larger version

Name:	100_0413.jpg
Views:	292
Size:	55.5 KB
ID:	3716  
__________________
2010 Flagstaff 829RGSS

Still to go: AK, NL, NT, NU, YT
Willis is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-27-2010, 08:20 AM   #7
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: South Jersey
Posts: 91
Nice work. I'll pass this on to my son for his Surveyor.
__________________
2010 373DS
Master Tow with 2008 Nissan Altima
bresdogsr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-27-2010, 09:38 AM   #8
Wanna Be Camper
 
SaskCampers's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Moose Jaw, Saskatchewan
Posts: 2,370
Very nice job, looks like a modification for spring.
__________________

John & Deb
2011 F250 Lariat FX4 Crew Cab 6.2
2011 Flagstaff V-Lite 30WRLS
Days Camped 2016: 3 2017: 0
SaskCampers is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-27-2010, 10:50 AM   #9
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Maple Ridge, BC, Canada
Posts: 635
Nice job. On our 8315BSS the water heater location is very similar to your rig, and I have been planning a similar mod. My thought was to use a smaller snap-in type of lighted switch for the water heater switch instead of the box/switch combo used in your mod. Also curious why you replaced the original receptacle box with a deeper one. No room inside it to make the connections ???

...VTX-AL
__________________
VTX Al is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 10-27-2010, 02:57 PM   #10
The Old Man
 
Willis's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Huntersville, NC
Posts: 330
Quote:
Originally Posted by VTX Al View Post
Nice job. On our 8315BSS the water heater location is very similar to your rig, and I have been planning a similar mod. My thought was to use a smaller snap-in type of lighted switch for the water heater switch instead of the box/switch combo used in your mod. Also curious why you replaced the original receptacle box with a deeper one. No room inside it to make the connections ???

...VTX-AL
The OEM receptacle is a snap-in connector type and very shallow. I actually started with one box (the grey one shown in the very first photo) and had to go to the deeper box (blue one) because I felt uncomfortable with how hard I had to cram the wire back in. I actually got a short across the ground the first time I powered up and popped the main...so thought a bigger box was prudent. Not shown in the photos, but I also put tape on all the nuts and across the side of the screws just as simple insurance.

When researching switches I discovered that there are two types of lighted switches. First type is a switch that is lit when the switch is OFF. This is the most common type and usually the switch itself lights up showing that the power is off. This type would be used for something like a furnace system that would normally always be on and the light would warn that the system is off. The lighted-when-off switch doesn't need the 3rd neutral wire.

The lighted-when-on switches apparently always need that 3rd neutral to complete the lamp circuit. I couldn't find one that didn't nor did I find one where the switch mechanism itself lit up when on (as opposed to a separate switch and light like this one). Not saying such a switch doesn't exist...I just couldn't find one at any of the big-box stores nearby nor even after a brief internet search.

One minor thing that I think I could have done differently...I suppose rather than wire-nutting the white wires together and using a jumper to attach to the receptacle that I could have connected one white wire to one neutral/silver screw and the other white wire to the other silver screw. That would have freed up some space by eliminating one wire nut. Didn't think of that until I studied my wiring photo and tried to explain how I wired it.
__________________

__________________
2010 Flagstaff 829RGSS

Still to go: AK, NL, NT, NU, YT
Willis is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




ForestRiverForums.com is not in any way associated with Forest River, Inc. or its associated RV manufacturing divisions.


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:09 PM.