What plumbing mods are "must haves"?

[BackInAction]

Upgraded from a PUP to a Roo. So, this is our first camper with plumbing (the sink in the PUP was never used). I'm primarily concerned about freshwater mods that are useful when it is time to winterize.

Suggestions and/or photo links would be much appreaciated.

[miatared]

Well I would recommend a pump winterization/converter kit.

Your Roo already has a bypass valve for the water heater - this prevents the heater from filling up with the pink stuff (antifreeze)

It allows using the pump to pull the 'pink stuff' from the jug, through the plumbing apparatus (I always wanted to use this word... yipee)

Here is what it looks like:
Camco Mfg Inc - Pump Converter Winterizer Kit - Winterizing - Camping World

Money well spent.

Still in denial, I am looking at ways to cancel winter this year...

[capucine]

If you have a compressor it will be time to use it. Fom me I used my second compressor hose and cutted the hose at the end to fit a garden hose attached with a jubilee clamp. Just insert the hose like you attache the garden hose for your camping. Adjust the pressure on the compressor to aprx 60 psi and keep your faucets closed until the compressor stop. Open all faucets one at a time for severals times until there is no more water in the lines.. Dont forget to remove the filter cartridge at the end and empty the plastic bowl. This bowl will not empty even if you pressurise the lines with air. When it is all done just add aprx 8 ounces of plumbing antifreeze in all the water traps. Leave all faucets opened at the end. Dont forget to bleed the 2 drain lines also under the trailers with pressure from your compressor. These 2 drains are the drains valves for the lowest point of the trailer. Remove the water heater drain plug fo the winter and at the same time check the anode for the next season. Like this you will be okay for the winter. I have done severals trailers this way because at the camground where I was I was doing most of the seasonals for winter preparation. Good luck PS> you just need aprx less than 2 gallons for this job. remark: at the end it is a must to disconnect the hose from your freshwater that go to the shur flow pump and dip this hose in a gallon of antifreeze. Pump half a gallon while you open the faucets to winterrize the pump. It is very important if you have used the pump during the season. After just reconnect the hose to your tank.

[BackInAction]

To DOs:

1. Purchase/install the "Pump Converter winterizing kit".
2. My output pressure control valve broke off my compressor some time ago. Guess I need to get that replaced.
3. But a couple of gallons of the pink RV Antifreeze.

I think I might have to winterize twice this year as we have a trip over Halloween, but plan on going to the Smokies over Thanksgiving. 90% of the time I could probably wait until after the Thanksgiving trip, but every once in a while in Ohio, it actually gets cold (25F over night) before Thanksgiving.

[youroo]

Originally Posted by BackInAction

Upgraded from a PUP to a Roo. So, this is our first camper with plumbing (the sink in the PUP was never used). I'm primarily concerned about freshwater mods that are useful when it is time to winterize.

Suggestions and/or photo links would be much appreaciated.

Also before you pump in the anti-freeze remove the filter housing and place a same size Pepsi bottle with lid attached inside where the element was located,saves anti-freeze and you dont have to buy a filter bypass kit. Youroo!!

[BackInAction]

Great idea.

Though I think if I use the compressor to blow air out of the lines. Then I only need to fill the pump housing with antifreeze. So, once I see anitfreeze enter the filter's housing, I can stop.

Correct?

Does the shower have a trap? Or is it a straight pipe to the grey water tank?

Does everyone leave the plug out of their hot water tank over the winter? Or do you put it back in once you have it completely drained?

[miatared]

All sinks and shower have p-traps, so, yes you need to pour some antifreeze in all of them - 1 cup is OK.

Do not forget the exterior shower and the Inlet city water connection too.

Once the water heater is empty, put the anode rod back in - well that is what I do.

Re: Hallowen, I would winterize only after - it should not be that cold prior to that, or could it ??

[BackInAction]

Originally Posted by miatared

Re: Hallowen, I would winterize only after - it should not be that cold prior to that, or could it ??

I'll have to winterize twice in 4 weeks, once after Halloween and again ~4 weeks later when we return from our Thanksgiving trip.

[flyrotor]

The air compressor to blow out the lines is great, especially if you are winterizing more than once during the cold season, only takes about 10 minutes to completely winterize, saves a bunch on antifreeze. We usually go early in the season and winterize several times in the spring and this works well.

[BackInAction]

Originally Posted by flyrotor

The air compressor to blow out the lines is great, especially if you are winterizing more than once during the cold season, only takes about 10 minutes to completely winterize, saves a bunch on antifreeze. We usually go early in the season and winterize several times in the spring and this works well.

I still have to use antifreeze to protect the pump and fill the traps, correct?

I looked at the $2 blow-out plugs city water input and to your compressor. What sort of fitting do I need at the end of my compressor hose to connect (and stay) on the blow-out plug?

[Herk7769]

Originally Posted by BackInAction

I still have to use antifreeze to protect the pump and fill the traps, correct?

I looked at the $2 blow-out plugs city water input and to your compressor. What sort of fitting do I need at the end of my compressor hose to connect (and stay) on the blow-out plug?

Do not use more than 30 PSI on the regulator (the one way chack valve in the pump coud pop).

.Antifreeze in the drains - yes.

As to the pump, I would have it suck some antifreeze in the inlet. That should protect the inlet filter and check valve.

Don't forget to blow out the turbo flush and the outside shower if you have them

[rhyno76]

Originally Posted by herk7769

Do not use more than 30 PSI on the regulator (the one way chack valve in the pump coud pop).

I don't have any compressor yet. Would a 3 gallon\100 PSI compressor (set to 30 PSI of course) handle the task of blowing out the lines?

[Herk7769]

Certainly. A hobby paint spray compressor with a regulator would do the job. Also a beermeister bottle of CO2 with an appropriate regulator would work too.

[BackInAction]

I assume if you have a smaller capacity compressor (I, too, only have a small 3gal model), you will need to let it build up pressure between faucets. As I doubt 2 psi blowing down the line is going to help all that much. Whereas a blast of 30 psi air each time you open a valve, helps blow out water that sits in regionally low areas of the line.

At least that's my theory...

[Len & Cheri]

Originally Posted by BackInAction

What sort of fitting do I need at the end of my compressor hose to connect (and stay) on the blow-out plug?

This is what I use. It will lock on to the blowout fitting so you don't have to have 2 people to do your winterizing.

[SaskCampers]

Originally Posted by miatared

Re: Hallowen, I would winterize only after - it should not be that cold prior to that, or could it ??

It has been -30 or so here for Halloween on occasion.

[dirttracker18]

I never blow out my lines. My experience is that it takes less than 2 gallons of anitfreeze, run from the pump, to fully winterize almost any unit.

Shut off the water heater, use your pump to pump out of the antifreeze jug and let your pump run until it pressurizes. Then run each tap, toilet, shower, etc. until the antifreeze runs out. The run out is enough to fill the traps as well.

All done! Nice and fast.

In the spring I run fresh water through the entire system for a while at home and then dump the tanks on the way out for the first trip.

Not that I against a blow out but I just find it easier to drop a hose in the jug then turn the taps on.

[mTn_biKer65]

Both methods are relatively easy to do (if you have a compressor) so that's exactly what I do. Also, saves having the antifreeze watered down by mixing with the existing water in the lines.

I like LFugates tool to hold the line to the blowout fitting.

[flyrotor]

I built this connection for about $8, simple to use, I also labeled it 40 psi so I remember to down grade the line pressure off the air compressor, 40 psi will not hurt the trailer as my city water supply has a residual pressure of 76 psi. I can hook up water to the city line and have never had any issues with 76 psi. My compressor is a 6 gallon pancake compressor.

[campnqueen]

Originally Posted by herk7769

Do not use more than 30 PSI on the regulator (the one way chack valve in the pump coud pop).

.Antifreeze in the drains - yes.

As to the pump, I would have it suck some antifreeze in the inlet. That should protect the inlet filter and check valve.

Don't forget to blow out the turbo flush and the outside shower if you have them

Lou,

You are soooo right on the outside shower...had to replace ours earlier this year...cracked from the cold.

We are thinking about putting a shut off for the outside shower. We do winter camping... and water flows to the shower fitting and hard to keep warm.

Also NEVER thought about the Turbo Flush! Thanks for the reminder! It's now on my list!