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Old 02-17-2014, 09:40 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by HONDAMAN174 View Post
Turbs- don't wanna hurt your head any further tonight.

The idea was yes to not running propane while driving since tow vehicle can replenish DC. I now see that some dometic units are DC capable. Also saw where they hide that darn defrost switch.
Yeah it's thumpin....
I can't help with inverter logistics but I know you'll get great advice.

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Old 02-19-2014, 10:49 PM   #12
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I was bummer that most TT and Fiver fridges are not three way as well. Then I remembered, these refrigerators can run for nearly a year on a 20 lbs tank of propane. The vent system on the TT/Fivers are also more suitable to keeping the fridge lit while running down the road. My popup had a hard time keeping the fridge lit; my TT it was never an issue.
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Old 02-21-2014, 12:19 AM   #13
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While I haven't tried anything along this line, this thread caught my interest. From what I can tell, the Dometic 120 volt heater elemenmt is just 325 watts: Dometic 120V 325W Refrigerator Heating Element : Amazon.com : Automotive. At that wattage, even at just 90% efficiency, an inverter would be drawing around 30 amps. As the fridge would only run maybe 10% or 20% of the time, not a big alternator load while driving.

Also, since the element is a simple resistive load, I believe a cheap "simulated" sine wave inverter should work fine ("true sine wave" not necessary in this application).

Would be nice to wire it so the inverter is only connected when the vehicle engine is running and there is no 110 volts from either shore power or the onboard generator. Sort of an "auto-switchover". I can imagine a circuit to do this, but easiest is probably "manual" - unplug the fridge from its normal 110 supply and plug it into the inverter.

Good luck!
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Old 02-21-2014, 01:50 AM   #14
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My previous Roadtrek van camper had a small Dometic propane/120v/12v three way refrigerator. It worked fine on propane and 120 volts AC, but couldn't cool well at all on 12 volts. I used the 12 volt setting only while driving, and I really don't think it made any difference compared with just having the refrigerator turned off. The 12 volt setting would put a heavy load on the battery when parked, so it had to be switched back to propane. I used to keep a 2 liter water bottle in the freezer that I would move to the refrigerator section when it was on 12 volts, and I think that made more of a difference.
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Old 02-21-2014, 11:54 AM   #15
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My plan was to just run the fridge on the inverter all the time and switch to propane when dry camping. Won't matter when plugged in to 120v cause charger will more than keep up.
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Old 02-21-2014, 12:06 PM   #16
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IMHO 30 amps is alot to ask of the charging circuit on the vehicle/trailer connector. I would shoot for at least an 8 ga even though a 10 would surely carry it(it's a long way back there).
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Old 02-21-2014, 12:39 PM   #17
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30 amps is going to be a big wire running from the Tow Vehicle alternator/battery back to the trailer. The little 12 guage wire running through the tow harness will not keep up, and I think running 30 amps through the tow harness connector will likely melt it. So in order to do want you are wanting, you will need to run a separate purpose built harness for the high current. Think trolling motor connectors and wiring.
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Old 02-21-2014, 03:55 PM   #18
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Yea that is a little much...that money can buy a lot of propane.
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