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11-19-2016, 12:49 PM
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#61
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Southern NM
Posts: 9,559
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I believe after you research going solar you only continue if you consider it a hobby and just enjoy the adventure of making it work for you. It's on my 'might be fun' list, but keeps on getting bumped by all the other adventures of RVing
__________________
Scott and Liz - Southern NM
2012 Wildcat Sterling 32RL - w/level up (best option ever)
2007 Chevy 2500HD Duramax
Reese Fifth Airborne Sidewinder
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11-19-2016, 02:32 PM
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#62
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 10,907
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2014 sierra
I 'm not sure I understand " you have just started the problem" statement. as far as free goes I did say "nearly free" not free
and this I agree with you on, everything that has been told to us thru advertisements has been wrong 20 to 30 years later. what we should and shouldn't .....changes all the time. so for now we just do what works for us today. and yes I am into the environment (love camping and the outdoors).....
and yes, I do plan on doing a lot of camping where there is no shore power to hook up to. and I want to run the lp generator as little as possible.
this is why I am doing so much homework to try to get the right system and do my best to distribute the weight of it on the RV as even as possible, making sure not to over load the truck or trailer axles. yet, getting some thing strong enough the first time, so I can "set it and forget it" I am trying to do what I can today to make our lives easier tomorrow.
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I said "you have stated the problem" because I was trying to point out that in just one post (or you could say, "in the same breath") you first said that you did not have "unlimited funds" and THEN you said solar is "nearly free."
Nearly free and not having unlimited funds seem like oxymorons to me. If solar was truly "nearly free" then you wouldn't even be talking about not having unlimited funds.
People generally seem to ignore the upfront capital costs when they think "free." Solar panels, charge controllers, and extra batteries, unfortunately, are not "free." Commercial solar power plants would not built today if the gov't (us taxpayers) wasn't giving them $23/megawatt-hour.
Some day, it probably will be nearly free, but not yet. It took a lot of people spending $3K+ on desktop computers in the 1990's to get us to $300 laptops today.
__________________
1988 Coleman Sequoia - popup (1987-2009) - outlasted 3 Dodge Grand Caravans!
2012 Roo19 - hybrid (2012-2015)
2016 Mini Lite 2503S - tt (2015 - ???)
2011 Traverse LT, 3.6L, FWD
2009 Silverado 1500 Ext Cab, 5.3L, 4x4, 3.73
2016 Silverado 2500HD Dbl Cab, 6.0L 4x4, 4.10
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11-19-2016, 02:47 PM
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#63
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 3,275
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2014 sierra
Thank you for your insight, do to not having unlimited funds, I guess those L.I.P. Batteries won't be getting installed on this rig any time soon. I have come up with an idea to try to equalize the overall weight with this install by moving the batteries behind the rear axle. this should help offset the new generator I install later.
With me it's a lifestyle, I love camping so much that we have become full timers. well aware of being good neighbors, and many park reg.'s. I originally wanted to go solar for three reasons;
1- because it is nearly free energy, over my lifetime that can save a lot in fuel for the generator. (PAY FOR ITS SELF ?)
2-its QUIET
3- should have to worry about dead batteries.
I think I have to take a step back sometimes and re-evaluate my situation on alternate power sources, I really like what I have come up with so far. i'll attach a picture or 2
this is where I am at now.
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The sun is of course free (so far) and if you do it right and keep it long enough it will pay for itself, not to mention the peace and quiet factor. Solar might be the only viable option for certain lifestyles in certain places. Wind is not IMO.
Moving the batteries seems like a good idea on its face, but many trailers are not built to handle that much weight there. Many bumpers on trailers are rated for only a couple of hundred pounds. There would need to be engineering and work to beef up the frame, etc. to make this work. Why not start out with 4 batteries and test the waters? Trojan or Crown is best; I went cheap with Batteries Plus 230 ah GC-2s.
Something to consider is how that much weight back there will affect pin weight.
Besides the batteries, the inverter will need to be back there ... usually within 5' feet of the batteries, certainly no more than 8' even with ginormous cabling.
The solar controller can be inside and of course the monitor / control panels. A CC like mine, can be placed anywhere along the PV panel to battery route.
I wonder if there is a place for batteries more nearly over the axles?
I would also not go to a 3000w inverter unless you already know you need that much. Running a 3000W inverter while charging a cell phone is very inefficient.
Many devices can run on a MSW inverter, why not add a smaller PSW for what really needs that and a bigger and less expensive MSW for everything else. I have a PSW because my idea at the time was to be able to run a microwave, which is one of the items that I have, that doesn't like MSW.
WW
__________________
Hyper Lite was sold
2017 F-250 4x4 6.2L Gas
I can't fix everything, but I can make it so nobody else can
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11-19-2016, 03:30 PM
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#64
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Warsaw,NC
Posts: 7,184
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Who really cares if it's nearly free or not. I know solar costs a lot but it's a way to have peace and quiet and it allows me to enjoy nature more. Sometimes I want creature comforts without having to run the generator. Where I live at is solar farms all around me and I'm not stupid I know that without Uncle Sam they would not be built and in my opinion they should not be built. But solar will work great for me even though it cost more. Most of what I buy now I know I'll never get back what I paid for it. No way I'll ever get back what I paid for this camper, I won't live that long. It's just convenience for me, I don't have unlimited funds but I can't take anything with me when I'm gone but memories
Sent from my iPhone using Forest River Forums
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11-19-2016, 03:45 PM
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#65
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 10,907
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spock123
Who really cares if it's nearly free or not. I know solar costs a lot but it's a way to have peace and quiet and it allows me to enjoy nature more. Sometimes I want creature comforts without having to run the generator. Where I live at is solar farms all around me and I'm not stupid I know that without Uncle Sam they would not be built and in my opinion they should not be built. But solar will work great for me even though it cost more. Most of what I buy now I know I'll never get back what I paid for it. No way I'll ever get back what I paid for this camper, I won't live that long. It's just convenience for me, I don't have unlimited funds but I can't take anything with me when I'm gone but memories
Sent from my iPhone using Forest River Forums
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Well, you may not have unlimited funds, but when another person posts he wants to buy a camper, but he's only got $12K to spend (for everything, including "stuff), I would conclude that you've got more funds than he does, and I highly doubt he's going to have the money to go solar.
It all comes down to how badly you want it and if can you afford it. But I don't believe ANYONE, unless they keep their solar outfit for maybe 20 years and do a LOT of boondocking, will truly get any kind of return on their "investment."
But that is applicable to the entire RV purchase. We all have to decide what we want to spend our money on, because in the end, RV'ing is NOT an investment. It's discretionary spending. Spend your money on what you want, but don't fool yourself thinking some part of it is "free." If it were truly free, we'd all be doing it. And we're clearly not. THAT's the point I was trying to make.
OK, I'm off my soap box!
__________________
1988 Coleman Sequoia - popup (1987-2009) - outlasted 3 Dodge Grand Caravans!
2012 Roo19 - hybrid (2012-2015)
2016 Mini Lite 2503S - tt (2015 - ???)
2011 Traverse LT, 3.6L, FWD
2009 Silverado 1500 Ext Cab, 5.3L, 4x4, 3.73
2016 Silverado 2500HD Dbl Cab, 6.0L 4x4, 4.10
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11-19-2016, 04:20 PM
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#66
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Recently new!
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Arizona, in The Land of Scorch!
Posts: 1,206
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Old solar
Yes, there is some rather nasty chemicals inside the solar panels. But then, so is there in gasoline or propane. Someone posted how we will have to deal with all the used panels in 20-30 years. Not quite true, as most panels are guaranteed 20-25 years to be 80% of their ratings. They will still put out! I know some here in the Phoenix area had panels put on their houses in the late 60's, and they are still outputting over 90%. Remember, the desert sun is brutal on anything it shines on. Your results may vary.
There are places that are beginning to crop up that will repurpose old solar, either by scrapping them out and recycling, or even cutting out the still good portions of the panels and selling those off to be used for other applications. With anything we do, we still have to be responsible for our actions.
Yes, solar works for me. I have it on my house. Previous to the solar, my power bills were about 4,000 per year. My highest YEARLY power bill since 2011 has been 348.00. Of that, 248.00 was the "right" to be connected. My cost was 9,700 installed. It has more than paid for itself.
I am acquiring the needed goodies for my camper. Will I see that kind of payback? Nope. But, I can run a much smaller generator if the need arises. No, I cannot run the air with my setup, and my Genset cannot either, but when my set up is complete, the Genset will combine with my inverter during the large demand during startup of the a/c unit, but can support the air once it is running. That is the reason we camp in the first place, so as to get out of the desert heat and not have the a/c running...lol. But, even with my incomplete setup, I have not had to fire up the generator in over a year.
__________________
1987 Starcraft Nova tent trailer, purch. '87, sold 8.14
2013 Crusader 290RLT bought new, 8.14 lotsa mods!
2001 Ford F-250 7.3
Loving wife, R.I.P., 6/6/19
and Mason the always dirty dog! R.I.P, 2/19
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11-19-2016, 04:49 PM
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#67
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Crusin81
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Castaic, CA
Posts: 78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rockfordroo
I said "you have stated the problem" because I was trying to point out that in just one post (or you could say, "in the same breath") you first said that you did not have "unlimited funds" and THEN you said solar is "nearly free."
Nearly free and not having unlimited funds seem like oxymorons to me. If solar was truly "nearly free" then you wouldn't even be talking about not having unlimited funds.
People generally seem to ignore the upfront capital costs when they think "free." Solar panels, charge controllers, and extra batteries, unfortunately, are not "free." Commercial solar power plants would not built today if the gov't (us taxpayers) wasn't giving them $23/megawatt-hour.
Some day, it probably will be nearly free, but not yet. It took a lot of people spending $3K+ on desktop computers in the 1990's to get us to $300 laptops today.
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I get you now, you misunderstood what was trying to say. I was not trying to imply TO BUY A SOLAR SYSTEM WAS NEARLY FREE, I WAS SAYING THE EXPENCE OF USING IT IS NEARLY FREE. Heck if it were nearly free to buy one everyone would have one. I can defiantly say the initial purchase of a strong solar system is in the thousands, why on gods earth would I be doing so much planning and research to try to get it right the first time. The only other maintenance cost should only be batteries if properly maintained should last a couple years anyway.
I hope this clears things up.
__________________
1981 GMC 3500 Sierra Classic, Camper Special
"Big Dooly", Standard Cab, 7.4 L engine, TH400 trans, Gear Vender, One piece drive shaft,
2014 Sierra (366FL) 5th Wheel
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11-19-2016, 04:53 PM
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#68
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 10,907
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2014 sierra
I get you now, you misunderstood what was trying to say. I was not trying to imply TO BUY A SOLAR SYSTEM WAS NEARLY FREE, I WAS SAYING THE EXPENCE OF USING IT IS NEARLY FREE. Heck if it were nearly free to buy one everyone would have one. I can defiantly say the initial purchase of a strong solar system is in the thousands, why on gods earth would I be doing so much planning and research to try to get it right the first time. The only other maintenance cost should only be batteries if properly maintained should last a couple years anyway.
I hope this clears things up.
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Got it.
__________________
1988 Coleman Sequoia - popup (1987-2009) - outlasted 3 Dodge Grand Caravans!
2012 Roo19 - hybrid (2012-2015)
2016 Mini Lite 2503S - tt (2015 - ???)
2011 Traverse LT, 3.6L, FWD
2009 Silverado 1500 Ext Cab, 5.3L, 4x4, 3.73
2016 Silverado 2500HD Dbl Cab, 6.0L 4x4, 4.10
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11-19-2016, 04:58 PM
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#69
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Warsaw,NC
Posts: 7,184
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I have two Honda's, 2000i that I paid $1700 bucks for seven years ago, I have used them twice this year, will I ever get what I paid for them back, no. I just buy stuff I like, not that I'll get a return on my investment. Ever body buys what they like and can afford, my camper is financed for twenty years. I told the dealer when I brought the camper I wouldn't live that long, he said somebody would. I don't want to hijack this thread but last time I dry camped I was wondering why my microwave would not work on my inverter and bank of batteries, I have a MSW inverter, I found out I need a PSW inverter.
Sent from my iPhone using Forest River Forums
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11-19-2016, 05:26 PM
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#70
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Crusin81
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Castaic, CA
Posts: 78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WolfWhistle
The sun is of course free (so far) and if you do it right and keep it long enough it will pay for itself, not to mention the peace and quiet factor. Solar might be the only viable option for certain lifestyles in certain places. Wind is not IMO.
Moving the batteries seems like a good idea on its face, but many trailers are not built to handle that much weight there. Many bumpers on trailers are rated for only a couple of hundred pounds. There would need to be engineering and work to beef up the frame, etc. to make this work. Why not start out with 4 batteries and test the waters? Trojan or Crown is best; I went cheap with Batteries Plus 230 ah GC-2s.
Something to consider is how that much weight back there will affect pin weight.
Besides the batteries, the inverter will need to be back there ... usually within 5' feet of the batteries, certainly no more than 8' even with ginormous cabling.
The solar controller can be inside and of course the monitor / control panels. A CC like mine, can be placed anywhere along the PV panel to battery route.
I wonder if there is a place for batteries more nearly over the axles?
I would also not go to a 3000w inverter unless you already know you need that much. Running a 3000W inverter while charging a cell phone is very inefficient.
Many devices can run on a MSW inverter, why not add a smaller PSW for what really needs that and a bigger and less expensive MSW for everything else. I have a PSW because my idea at the time was to be able to run a microwave, which is one of the items that I have, that doesn't like MSW.
WW
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Thanks for reading everything in my post, I have done a lot of research as I previously stated, as I have said I am a full-timer, so as long as I own this RV they will be working for me in one capacity or another. as I previously stated in an earlier post, I am going to extend and reinforce the bumper so I am sure to secure 500 lbs there will NOT be a problem. as stated earlier is the reason I am moving the batteries to the rear was because I would of had too much tung weight with them in-front. I put them behind the axle too counter balance the 6.5 kw generator that's next on my list. I get you when you say to start small then work up, however I am trying to fully complete my rig for continuous traveling starting in a couple years. so when I attack an item on my list I only want to work on it once to set it up. once I start traveling I won't have the equipment or area to my disposal to do any fabrication or revisit half done items on my list.
good thought to try to place them more directly over the axle, already measured and there just isn't anywhere else.
as far as the solar system goes, its a complete kit with the option of adding one more panel and upgrading the charger to 100 amp instead of 75 amp. everything else is already included as you can read in an earlier post. the entire kit is "Go Power" and I have done my research and it should fit my needs, this kit requires 4 each 12 VDC batteries, this is why I need 8 each 6 VDC batteries (Trojan T 105s)
one thing you did bring to my attention was the distance between the inverter and the batteries, thank you. I will do further research on this and adjust as necessary. I have already downloaded the installation instructions, I will review it tonight.
feel free to read some of my other posts and let me know if you see any further issues. thanks.
__________________
1981 GMC 3500 Sierra Classic, Camper Special
"Big Dooly", Standard Cab, 7.4 L engine, TH400 trans, Gear Vender, One piece drive shaft,
2014 Sierra (366FL) 5th Wheel
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11-19-2016, 08:24 PM
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#71
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 3,275
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S, I assume Go Power said it takes 4 batteries, but did they evaluated your needs? How many amp/ hours did they tell you. Unless they did how could they know. Four 6-volt could do the same or more than 4 12-volt ... its all about how they add up; not all 6 or 12 are created equal. I have read a lot of negative comments about GoPower ... someone I respect calls it NoPower. I have not had any direct experience. But I recommend as a friend, with no affiliation with any solar eq supplier to do more research.
WW
__________________
Hyper Lite was sold
2017 F-250 4x4 6.2L Gas
I can't fix everything, but I can make it so nobody else can
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11-19-2016, 09:03 PM
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#72
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 3,275
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batteries, such as Trojans mentioned should last 5 to 7 years if properly maintained ... efficiency in design will lower costs by buying exactly what you need and nothing you don't. If I figured out my needs, anyone can but I read, read and read some more. When ordered my equipment I found out Trimetric and Magnum manuals were what I should have read first. I spend days reading Handy Bob Solar and learned a lot from him.
WW
__________________
Hyper Lite was sold
2017 F-250 4x4 6.2L Gas
I can't fix everything, but I can make it so nobody else can
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11-19-2016, 09:25 PM
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#73
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 446
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Why is there never any discussion about wind power? Its cheaper, and nearly silent, and works even at night and in the shade!
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11-19-2016, 10:08 PM
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#74
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Crusin81
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Castaic, CA
Posts: 78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WolfWhistle
S, I assume Go Power said it takes 4 batteries, but did they evaluated your needs? How many amp/ hours did they tell you. Unless they did how could they know. Four 6-volt could do the same or more than 4 12-volt ... its all about how they add up; not all 6 or 12 are created equal. I have read a lot of negative comments about GoPower ... someone I respect calls it NoPower. I have not had any direct experience. But I recommend as a friend, with no affiliation with any solar eq supplier to do more research.
WW
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Thank you, the first thing we were taught in the military is to NEVER assume. I have done my homework with this company, I talked personally to 2 people that own a "Go Power" system and both had nothing negative to say about the system only the batteries and what they want to do to upgrade, I read hundreds of comments that were left on amazon and a few other sites and yes there were a couple negative but most were very positive, with a 4.5 to 5 star overall rating by the consumer. further more I did calculations on what I run, remember (I am a full-timer) so my place is in use 24/7, I read the literature in writing it states 4 12 VDC batteries, I am just cranking it up a notch with 8 6vdc Trojans. the 3000 watt PSW inverter recommends 4 12 VDC batteries.
I think I have pretty much made up my mine on all of the components I am getting, now I am looking into component location and wiring / voltage drop. what I need to figure out is what size cable I need to run 45 feet with minimal voltage drop, this is my next step.
I thank everyone for your help and advice, it has truly been helpful.
if YOU HAVE ANY ANSWERS FOR MY WIRING ISSUE PLEASE LET ME KNOW.
__________________
1981 GMC 3500 Sierra Classic, Camper Special
"Big Dooly", Standard Cab, 7.4 L engine, TH400 trans, Gear Vender, One piece drive shaft,
2014 Sierra (366FL) 5th Wheel
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11-19-2016, 10:09 PM
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#75
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Crusin81
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Castaic, CA
Posts: 78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moodman
why is there never any discussion about wind power? Its cheaper, and nearly silent, and works even at night and in the shade!
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is it practical?
__________________
1981 GMC 3500 Sierra Classic, Camper Special
"Big Dooly", Standard Cab, 7.4 L engine, TH400 trans, Gear Vender, One piece drive shaft,
2014 Sierra (366FL) 5th Wheel
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11-19-2016, 10:52 PM
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#76
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Crusin81
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Castaic, CA
Posts: 78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WolfWhistle
batteries, such as Trojans mentioned should last 5 to 7 years if properly maintained ... efficiency in design will lower costs by buying exactly what you need and nothing you don't. If I figured out my needs, anyone can but I read, read and read some more. When ordered my equipment I found out Trimetric and Magnum manuals were what I should have read first. I spend days reading Handy Bob Solar and learned a lot from him.
WW
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THIS IS GOOD TO KNOW INFO, THANK YOU.
I was just going off the warranty info when I said a couple years. with me I usually plan for the worst and hope for the best. if I were to always try to reach for those stars I would be a very disappointed person every time I couldn't grab one. this way if those batteries last longer than expected I will be happy.
its just like everything I throw ALOT of money at.....measure a hundred times so you only have to cut ONCE. and that is what is making this cost effective. (as long as I do all the work myself) everytime I let someone work on this rig, I end up fixing it right myself. (not cost effective)easier and cheaper o just do it all myself everytime.
So after everything is installed and I see I am only running 35% on a daily average, I am happy. because now I still have room to grow ( upgrade any electronics inside like maybe a couple remote ceiling vents) and I won't have to replace my $1000.00 inverter to do it.
I know what I am getting now, I know why I am getting it, I know where I am getting it from (as of today), I know approx. when I will be getting it and I know who gets to install it. well I seem to be pleased with all the basic info and like in the military I answered the 5 W's. now I just need to start getting more detailed with the install.
If you can throw any documented info my way about component location and how much voltage drop per foot on the larger gage wires that would be great.
thank you.
__________________
1981 GMC 3500 Sierra Classic, Camper Special
"Big Dooly", Standard Cab, 7.4 L engine, TH400 trans, Gear Vender, One piece drive shaft,
2014 Sierra (366FL) 5th Wheel
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11-20-2016, 02:37 PM
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#77
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 3,275
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MOODMAN
Why is there never any discussion about wind power? Its cheaper, and nearly silent, and works even at night and in the shade!
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What I have read is that wind power required the generator to be placed in an area with consistent wind and very open; they don't like turbulence, which causes premature mechanical failure. If in the trees, it has to be placed higher. A tall tower would make it impractical for a mobile application. IMO
WW
__________________
Hyper Lite was sold
2017 F-250 4x4 6.2L Gas
I can't fix everything, but I can make it so nobody else can
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11-20-2016, 04:26 PM
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#78
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 3,275
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2014 sierra
Thank you, the first thing we were taught in the military is to NEVER assume. I have done my homework with this company, I talked personally to 2 people that own a "Go Power" system and both had nothing negative to say about the system only the batteries and what they want to do to upgrade, I read hundreds of comments that were left on amazon and a few other sites and yes there were a couple negative but most were very positive, with a 4.5 to 5 star overall rating by the consumer. further more I did calculations on what I run, remember (I am a full-timer) so my place is in use 24/7, I read the literature in writing it states 4 12 VDC batteries, I am just cranking it up a notch with 8 6vdc Trojans. the 3000 watt PSW inverter recommends 4 12 VDC batteries.
I think I have pretty much made up my mine on all of the components I am getting, now I am looking into component location and wiring / voltage drop. what I need to figure out is what size cable I need to run 45 feet with minimal voltage drop, this is my next step.
I thank everyone for your help and advice, it has truly been helpful.
if YOU HAVE ANY ANSWERS FOR MY WIRING ISSUE PLEASE LET ME KNOW.
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Please don't yell, I'm trying to help.
I recommend using the manuals from the manufacturer of the equipment you are going to install. I am attaching a link to my favorite voltage drop (VD) calculator. Although it is possible to manually calculate voltage drop if you know the voltage loss for various wire gauges, but the tool is much easier.
I can not speak for your gopower inverter or solar CC, but this is how I did mine.
It is my understanding that the 3000W GoPower inverter produces 2000W continuous.
My MS-2012 Magnum manual shows #2/0 cabling will work if inverter to battery is <5'; if longer than that, and for the others: 2800, and 4000 watt; #4/0 is required up to 10', which you should not exceed. Over 10' will require some big honking cable and a call to Magnum. Following their recommendation produces <1% VD. Only consider inverter to batteries; not batteries to ground (at least for Magnum).
I bought a 16 ton crimper and made my own cables using red and black #4/0 welding cable, BTW.
TIP: an easy way to cut the highly stranded; rather large welding cable is with a good PVC cutter. Don't forget anti-corrosion and good heat-shrink.
On the solar side ... Trimetric (I have the 30A PWM with monitor and temp compensation) shows the maximum VD from PV panels to CC to be <3%, it will compensate for CC to battery by increasing voltage accordingly, which allows flexibility in locating the CC, but I sized the total run(s) for a total <3% VD and placed the solar CC near the batteries anyway.
You might be curious about what voltage numbers to plug into a VD calculator / tool... I figured 12.5vdc for inverter calculations; since a full 12.7v battery under a substantial load (150A and up... my case) drops instant volt read to about 12.4 to 12.5 vdc.
For the CC calculations, I used 20vdc. Each of my 150w panels can produce 8.24 amps best case; so I used that value and length of run to find the wire size that would produce the required maximum VD for the "worse-case" panel; and 24.72A (3x 8.24A) from combiner to CC / battery to determine what AWG is needed to not go over the total VD, when added to the "worst-case" panel loss.
You use DC and the single conductor, not in conduit options, of course.
I've played with several online calculators, but like this one best.
Voltage Drop Calculator
WW
__________________
Hyper Lite was sold
2017 F-250 4x4 6.2L Gas
I can't fix everything, but I can make it so nobody else can
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11-20-2016, 04:44 PM
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#79
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Space Coast of Florida
Posts: 4,019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WolfWhistle
What I have read is that wind power required the generator to be placed in an area with consistent wind and very open; they don't like turbulence, which causes premature mechanical failure. If in the trees, it has to be placed higher. A tall tower would make it impractical for a mobile application. IMO
WW
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Plus wind turbines can be noisy.. your next door camper may not want to listen to it, especially at night...
__________________
2016 Siverback 33IK, Towed 50K+ mile
2018 Ford F-350 Lariat 6.7L V8 Diesel 4WD Crew Cab
"If you don't know where you are going, any road will get you there."
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11-20-2016, 07:03 PM
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#80
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 3,275
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I wonder if these generic examples of inverter wiring could help anyone? Note: 50 Amp circuits are #6 AWG; 30 Amp circuits #10 AWG; and 20 Amp circuits are #12 AWG. Absolutely NO aluminum wire.
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