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Old 11-28-2019, 11:06 PM   #21
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Here's a few quickies:

- Toggle switch to turn off the fridge door seal heater when not plugged in.
- 28" Roku TV, was able to use the original swing-out mount bracket.
- Magnetic spice shelf and paper towel holder.
- Small soundbar from Best Buy, way better than the TV or ceiling speakers.
- Water heater control board from Dinosaur Electronics to replace the factory part that burned out on it's second use.
- Reinforced fold-up grill shelf.
- Last but not least, the wife installed a Mk. 1 Mod. 0 German Shepherd dog.
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Old 11-29-2019, 12:36 AM   #22
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Sounds pretty ambitious. I hope you plan on posting your work, I'd really like to see how that comes out.
The thermistor design is awfully dated. I'm thinking about doing the snip-the-tip mod, although in all honesty I'm not having any actual problems with the factory setup.
It's actually not that bad. I am actually going to have some circuit boards made up once I get my prototype done. I worked on things 1000 times for complicated before I retired.

I would be glad to share with people who would like to see it but won't give out too many specifics. What I an going to do first will work in conjunction with the existing board. Phase 2 is to design a whole new board replacing the stock board.
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Old 11-29-2019, 12:37 AM   #23
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Here's a few quickies:

- Toggle switch to turn off the fridge door seal heater when not plugged in.
I just cut the wire on mine. Have never seen any frost so not planning on adding the switch. Of course I am out west in very dry climates.
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Old 11-30-2019, 12:31 PM   #24
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I just cut the wire on mine. Have never seen any frost so not planning on adding the switch. Of course I am out west in very dry climates.
My trailer is usually in a storage yard, so the day before a trip I'll turn the fridge on using propane and the battery so it will be ready to stock the next day. To save power I would simply unplug the terminal that supplies a ground to the heater and interior light. I live in a usually very tropical environment, but I too have never seen any frost develop during the pre-cool. I usually camp with hookups and once on shore power I'd reconnect the ground, so I don't know if any frost would form long term.
I installed the switch for simplicity's sake and to keep the light working with the heater off. I've got a trip planned soon at a state park where I'll be dry camping, I'll see what happens after several days with the seal heat off.
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Old 11-30-2019, 03:37 PM   #25
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Hey Folks,
I think I'm the guy who originally posted the electrical outlet to the panel near the sink in my 21ds. I used a double outlet and ran 14-3 wire from it to the breaker box. I added a new breaker to the box as well, and it wasn't that hard. I used a double outlet rather than a single because it fit the opening perfectly. By putting it on a seperate breaker it made it a little safer incase of water etc. I also added a single outlet to the shelf area and a 12 volt charging station (on the slide-out side) to mirror what is on the door side.
I also added a fold down shelf next to the range and reinforced it the same way. In my experience, it will hold about anything you want to set on it.
We spent a month in our little trailer this summer. It was our multi-night trip and we learned a lot from it and still have lots to learn. Love some of the other ideas that I am seeing on this site!
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Old 11-30-2019, 04:10 PM   #26
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My trailer is usually in a storage yard, so the day before a trip I'll turn the fridge on using propane and the battery so it will be ready to stock the next day. To save power I would simply unplug the terminal that supplies a ground to the heater and interior light. I live in a usually very tropical environment, but I too have never seen any frost develop during the pre-cool. I usually camp with hookups and once on shore power I'd reconnect the ground, so I don't know if any frost would form long term.
I installed the switch for simplicity's sake and to keep the light working with the heater off. I've got a trip planned soon at a state park where I'll be dry camping, I'll see what happens after several days with the seal heat off.
I clipped the wire that goes to the heater so that the light still works. I did it in a way to add the switch later if I though I needed it.
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Old 11-30-2019, 10:50 PM   #27
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Hey Folks,
I think I'm the guy who originally posted the electrical outlet to the panel near the sink in my 21ds.
Yep, you're the guy!
I went over your thread again, I forgot about that great mod you did with the drawers under the couch. Shoot, just when I thought I was finished!
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Old 11-30-2019, 11:51 PM   #28
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As mentioned earlier, we'll soon be doing some short-term dry camping. Although we plan to spend most of the day out in the wilds, the DW and I like to end the night with a glass of wine and a good (hopefully) movie. Most state parks have a "generators off" rule in the evening, so I thought a small inverter to go along with my bigger battery would be a wise investment. First thing I needed was a good pure sine wave inverter:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I considered cutting off the 12V plug and doing a hard-wire installation, but I might want to use the inverter somewhere else so I decided to keep it intact. That meant a 12V outlet in a place far from where any already existed, so I installed one in the TV bay along with a fuse holder. I tapped into the feed for the adjacent DVD/audio player (yellow butt connectors in the picture) and protected it with a 15A fuse. A couple of strips of good ol' double-stick Velcro keeps the inverter where I want it.
I watched an hour of TV with no shore power as a shake down test, much to my pleasant surprise it barely made a dent in my battery's capacity. I'll get a real world test soon enough.
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Old 12-01-2019, 06:16 PM   #29
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I like that inverter idea! I've been thinking about adding one as well. I replaced the single factory supplied 12v battery with 2 golf cart batteries before our long trip last summer and think adding an inverter will give me options that I don't have right now.. I like your setup.
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Old 12-02-2019, 10:40 AM   #30
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I like that inverter idea! I've been thinking about adding one as well. I replaced the single factory supplied 12v battery with 2 golf cart batteries before our long trip last summer and think adding an inverter will give me options that I don't have right now.. I like your setup.
Thanks. It's only 300 watts, but I doubt I'll be using it for anything more than the TV or maybe charging a laptop. It's plenty small and light and the only sound is from a quiet fan that cycles on occasion. Can't wait for the shakedown cruise!
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Old 12-02-2019, 05:41 PM   #31
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I have a 2k inverter, but still run my tv on a 75w plug in inverter. Status plugged in all the time. Shore power or no. It's just easier. I'll pretend it's inside the tv somewhere.....
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Old 12-02-2019, 10:26 PM   #32
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When I watch TV, I just turn on my 2000W inverter. I have 2 100AH Battleborns and 700W of solar so I have plenty of spare power even with running an inverter that size. It has around 0.5A overhead so watching TV a couple hours isn't costing much.
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Old 12-05-2019, 08:32 PM   #33
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Some of the places we plan to visit regularly are pretty isolated with very spotty cell coverage. I know I know, camping is supposed to be phone-free, but unfortunately we don't always have that luxury with our careers. With that in mind I decided to research a cell booster, and research I did because the ones worth having don't come cheap. I scored a pretty good deal on an open-box weBoost Drive 4G-M and got their trucker antenna to go with it. I put the booster itself in the area under the pantry that houses the water pump, using plastic spacers to keep it off the floor in case of a water leak. I put the power cable transformer behind the false panel in the bottom pantry space that covers the backflow valve and outside shower plumbing, running the wires through the hole for the PEX tubing from the pump. I cut off the 12V plug, added a fuse holder and attached the power wire to the 12V terminal block for the conveniently adjacent refrigerator. I ran that wire and the antenna cable through a hole drilled in the side of the pantry that shares a wall with the refrigerator bay. I wired in a surface mount switch to control the power and installed it near the booster.
Speaking of the antenna, I used both extensions that came with the trucker antenna to give it an overall length of over 43 inches. I clamped that to the very top of the ladder which should be high enough. Obviously I can't tow like that, so with the turn of a few wingnuts I can simply swing the antenna down and strap it to the ladder. The cable threads through the vents in the access panel for the fridge.
The inside antenna is the "candy bar" type that practically has to be strapped to the phone to get any real effect, for now I'll keep it coiled up by booster until use. I might get a MiFi device later and replace the candy bar with a cradle antenna.
I can't get an actual real-world test until I get out of the suburbs, but in my driveway I get a "good" signal strength of around -100dBm. When I switch on the booster the signal jumps to an "excellent" -75dBm, pretty impressive.
All that leaves is a trip to a nearby national park way out on the coast to get a proper test, after spending the day at the beach with the DW and doggo first of course. Priorities people!
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Old 12-06-2019, 01:33 PM   #34
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I’ve done about 50 “mods” to our 2016 2304KS One of the early mods was to change out the construction grade plywood, glue and staples drawer boxes, with 1/2” Baltic Birch plywood, with quality, drawer box, joinery. I also made each drawer as deep as possible. For example, the 2-17” Deep drawers next to the Murphy bed are now 26” deep. And that, relatively useless, tilt out beneath the sink is now a 7” deep drawer.
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Old 12-06-2019, 01:44 PM   #35
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Hi Denny!
Good to see a post from you. I have followed your lead on some of the mods you have done, especially the Murphy Bed! You are the best!
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Old 12-06-2019, 03:28 PM   #36
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Is this thermostat lighted ?
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Old 12-06-2019, 06:31 PM   #37
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Thank you so much. It’s a good thing our trailer is wrapped up for the winter, my ego is now swollen to big to fit through the door. LOL
Actually, I don’t seem to get many notifications from the forum?
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Old 12-06-2019, 10:26 PM   #38
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Is this thermostat lighted ?
Whenever you push a button the display lights up for a few seconds. Most don't do that and I find it pretty handy.
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Old 12-07-2019, 10:24 AM   #39
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...that, relatively useless, tilt out beneath the sink is now a 7” deep drawer.

I want to do that one. Where do you find drawer glides that short?
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Old Yesterday, 02:02 PM   #40
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Remember that part where I said that most of my current camping is in the Tropics of Texas? Probably not, but regardless I do rely heavily on decent air conditioning. Since we prefer the coast there are rarely any big trees around to provide shade, so keeping cool in the summer can be a challenge.
Adding Reflectix insulation to the cold air plenum is pretty popular on this forum. Reflectix is like a tough, thin bubble-wrap sandwiched in layers of aluminized Mylar film. The R-value isn't very high, but it glues on easily with spray adhesive and fits under the cover. I used double-stick Velcro instead of glue on the side with the service panel to access the innards if necessary. While the cover was off I also wrapped up the low-pressure (larger diameter) lines with adhesive foam weatherstripping. It's all about keeping the cold from escaping before making its way inside.





Remember when I said I'll also be doing some short term boondocking? Yeah, me neither. Anyway, I have a Champion inverter generator that's got enough oomph to run the A/C, even on econo-mode if I don't run anything else. I still wanted to lighten the load a bit so I added the optional factory hard-start capacitor (black cylinder in the picture). I know these aren't without controversy, but I did notice less of a surge on the genny when the compressor kicks in.



This little mod isn't quite as common, but also makes life a bit easier for the generator by delaying the start of the blower for a few seconds after the compressor turns on. Most residential central A/Cs do this, the outside unit comes on first then the air handler blower kicks in a second or two later, which prevents overloading the house's grid with a huge initial surge. It's easy to mod the typical RV unit by adding a "delay on make" timer. I installed mine by removing vent cover and bracket from the inside and finding the terminal strip for the thermostat wires. The one marked for the blower goes to a terminal on the timer, and a short jumper wire runs from the timer back to the terminal strip. An ever-popular zip tie secures the timer out of the way. The amount of delay is adjustable, but only a few seconds are required.



This only helps if the thermostat is set to AUTO FAN, which is probably a good idea anyway when on the generator to save gas.
I have an external thermostat, and I have no idea if this will work on a self-contained A/C. With that in mind, don't perform any of these mods if you aren't completely confident in your abilities and know what you are doing. Mistakes can be dangerous and if nothing else can easily void any warranties.

Most of these items are easy to find by using the Google, but I'll be glad to post any links if requested.
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