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Old 09-07-2015, 11:14 PM   #1
AMG
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2nd trip with 2016 Stealth, need advice

I took my 2016 Stealth WA2916 out this last weekend, Friday to Monday out at Lake Hemet RV Park here in Cali. It was a pretty cool little place. My brother and I went and we fished, rented a boat, ate like pigs and drank like fish...

I noticed a few things and I wanted some advice.

1. The trailer moves around when parked entirely too easily.
I acknowledge that the front two stabilizer jacks (this time at this spot) I couldn't put them down all the way with the way the ground was without putting some rocks under. I know rocks are not the most stable, so I concede these. However, the jacks were hard down on the rocks and seemed mostly solid.
Someone in the rear of the trailer simply walking around, sitting in the chair, etc, I feel ALL of that in the master (front) bed. Someone in the rear if they roll over, I feel that in the master bed.

How the heck can I make this thing stable as hell? Is it impossible just because perhaps the upper box/frame isn't super rigid? Are there aftermarket upgrades?

If I did no upgrades, I do plan on bringing along some kind of pads to put under the stabilizers. Perhaps a few 2x4's screwed together that are only maybe 12 or 14" long? Maybe there is a better solution?

2. The 13.5k BTU A/C seems like in 85-90 degree weather could prob cool the place off, but I am skeptical if I had it out in 100F weather if it could get the temp down in the 70's. Are there non-hack methods of adding a 2nd AC? What about going from a 13.5K BTU to 15.0K? It seems like for $500 for the unit not including install, etc. it couldn't be worth it for only 1.5K more BTU, right?

Adding a 2nd AC seems like a huge effort, especially on a brand new unit with factory warranty plus I bought a 3 year exclusionary aftermarket warranty. However, maybe after at least the bumper-to-bumper 1-year factory is out I have options? My concerns are that the main is 30A, and another AC wouldn't fly. Also, perhaps it couldn't be ducted. I'll also state that the front master bedroom the amount of air flow it receives is drastically less than what the rear most outlet gets (above the power beds). Maybe this is the real problem?

3. The furnace is a beast. However, the master was so hot, yet the rest of the trailer (where the themostat is) was very comfortable. If I set it at 70F the back area was great, but I had to be 75-78F in the front area. I open the door and all is good. Or I open the roof vent and it seemed to help.

4. Those roof sky lights are bright as hell. Do I really need the light coming in there? I dont think so. If I want light I am A-OK with the light I would get if i OPENED it, or just simply from the windows being open and blinds pulled up. Trying to sleep in, in the morning is tough with that bright light shining down on you (especially for the guy in the rear top bunk, looking right up at the sky light).

Has anyone done anything to black these out? How about *insulate* them? I would imagine that with just that plastic in between the interior and the outside world, that is a definite area where heat comes and goes when you wouldn't want it to.

5. This one is a bit tougher as I don't have a pic, and it probably needs someone who has the exact same WA2916 to know? On the left side of the TH, where the drain is, I have the black tank valve directly behind the hookup. Then on each side there looks to be a 2" pipe each with a valve on it. Do I really have 2 separate gray tanks? I would have figured it would be 1, but does the 160 gallon upgrade on the Stealth rather than just a larger single gray tank, split to two tanks?
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Old 09-08-2015, 11:55 AM   #2
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A very long post; but I will answer some of your questions since they are general in nature.

To prevent the motion (rocking) of trailer all of the leg stabilizers must be on secured footings. I carry several different thickness of boards for the legs. Some are 1" thick decking material since most wood is 3/4 of inch thick-8 pieces of 1X8X12. I also have some(4) 4X4 post cut to 12 inches long. All of this material is of cedar wood which will not rot. I than have two case of the plastic 12" square stackable pads for my center stabilizers, 12 pieces in each case. Also keep the stabilizers some what shorter when you extended them, do not extend them to their full length. This increase their instability at max length.

Now with your trailer since you do not have the hydraulic stabilizers installed. I would recommend something like the J-T strong arms be attached to the trailer. This will help in stabilizing the trailer. Check on line to see what I mean.

For A/C more capacity is always better to help in cooling. I do not think you could add a second A/C since your unit may not be wired and brace for a second A/C from the factory. So I would increase to a 15000 BTU A/C unit. When sleeping in the front close off some of the vents towards the rear. This will flow more air to the front for additional cooling. If your A/C will allow it run the fan in low speed all night to move air this helps too. To help keep the coach cool in the day install an reflective pad on the inside of the entrance door to reflect sun light. Two of these can also be Velcro to the skylight to relfefctect the sun light also.

Do a search on here for skylight covers there is a lot out there on what to do. We used an 1/8 foam core board cut to shape and supported with screen clips around the skylight. Also glue black felt to the inside of the foam core board to absorb the light if this bothers you a lot. We remove the foam core when we shower and reinstall after we are done.

On the gray tank issue I would say yes it is cheaper to use the same waste tank size for all your waste issues than to have a separate tank of various size per given trailer. Also easier to design in just one size tank for the various waste needs. Adding what every amount; such as one to three tanks is requires to handle all of the different sinks and toilets in the unit.

At least this is the way it is on every 5th wheel I have ever owned (on my third 5er).
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Old 09-09-2015, 12:10 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim34RL View Post
Also keep the stabilizers some what shorter when you extended them, do not extend them to their full length. This increase their instability at max length.
good info on that part, I will try to do that.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim34RL View Post
Now with your trailer since you do not have the hydraulic stabilizers installed. I would recommend something like the J-T strong arms be attached to the trailer. This will help in stabilizing the trailer. Check on line to see what I mean.
I had actually seen these in previously discussed threads. I didnt want to mention I was looking at those as I wanted to see what suggestions came up. I think I'm gonna pick these up though.

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Originally Posted by Jim34RL View Post
close off some of the vents towards the rear. This will flow more air to the front for additional cooling. If your A/C will allow it run the fan in low speed all night to move air this helps too.
I am going to see if those grills from the factory that turn have any way to be pulled off, then maybe I can get some other kinds that have the ability to close the louvers.

I also did set the fan to LO just to help with what you said.

As far as the 15K AC, I am not going to jump to that right now. I need to get a year or more with many days under the trailer to know a lot more. Maybe there is something obstructing the duct to the master. Even the bathroom is very very faint in comparison to all the outlets to the rear of the AC. I will add this to my list to discuss with my dealer.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim34RL View Post
Do a search on here for skylight covers there is a lot out there on what to do. We used an 1/8 foam core board cut to shape and supported with screen clips around the skylight. Also glue black felt to the inside of the foam core board to absorb the light if this bothers you a lot. We remove the foam core when we shower and reinstall after we are done.
I think the Camco ones are solid from the reviews I saw. I'll pick up 5 of those pillow ones with the reflective backing and give those a go in the future. Thanks.

Quote:
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On the gray tank issue I would say yes it is cheaper to use the same waste tank size for all your waste issues than to have a separate tank of various size per given trailer. Also easier to design in just one size tank for the various waste needs. Adding what every amount; such as one to three tanks is requires to handle all of the different sinks and toilets in the unit.
What I was leading to is that under my trailer there are 3 visible tanks all connecting to the main dump valve. In the middle is the black tank. On either side are what I gathered to be both dual gray tanks. Strange to me, but it seems to work. I guess I just wondered if perhaps they add a second one at the Forest River factory just because I have the upgraded 160 gal fresh tank, so why not give me more gray? Whatever the answer is, it is what it is... thanks again for your thoughts/help.
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Old 09-09-2015, 02:23 PM   #4
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Hey AMG, Sorry I missed this somehow. I'm a vulture usually on the Toy Hauler section. We have our PM going so I'll just address the tank situation. yes, we have TWO grey water tanks on our units. Mine has the 160 gallon upgrade as well. Thats also why we have the two monitors inside the Stealth. The one by the solar controller is also grey but makes you think it's a black tank tank monitor. The other is obviously inside our control panel/cabinet by the rear door. As far as AC, which we are discussing in PM as well, It has been 100+ here in the valley and I have been able to cool it down pretty quickly with the fan on high, windows closed, ac vent open for down blowing, etc.

Beautiful toy hauler though. Looks just like mine.... oh yeah....it is just like mine!
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Old 09-10-2015, 01:49 PM   #5
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One gray tank for kitchen and one for bathroom.
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Old 09-10-2015, 03:09 PM   #6
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I did this to help stabilize jacks:


Jack Stand Blocks - Has Hinge If Less Height Is Needed And Handle Photo by JAL59 | Photobucket

and added mid-rig jacks near tires:

Mid Rig Jacks - Curb Side Photo by JAL59 | Photobucket

Mid Rig Jacks - Street Side Photo by JAL59 | Photobucket

I also built cross-braced type sliding tubes that go diagonally on each end of TT. One end is bolted to jack foot, the other end to TT frame. Set screw secures them in place. I built it out of old Coleman tent poles. No picts.

All of this helps in keeping rig more stable.
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Old 09-10-2015, 03:29 PM   #7
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I like the block idea with the Home Depot hinge and handle. Cheap and easy, and pretty cool.

I did order the JT Strong Bars, so I will give that a try. installing extra scissor jacks mid-way would be a super easy and quick solution too, but let me give this a go and report back in the next time I take it out. Definitely do want to ensure that my scissor jacks are not extended near the full length as I can see how that would allow for them to be swayed more.

Thanks!


:EDIT: is that photo site all yours? Man, you do a ton of DIY stuff. I looked through all the pics. very cool.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JAL View Post
I did this to help stabilize jacks:


Jack Stand Blocks - Has Hinge If Less Height Is Needed And Handle Photo by JAL59 | Photobucket

and added mid-rig jacks near tires:

Mid Rig Jacks - Curb Side Photo by JAL59 | Photobucket

Mid Rig Jacks - Street Side Photo by JAL59 | Photobucket

I also built cross-braced type sliding tubes that go diagonally on each end of TT. One end is bolted to jack foot, the other end to TT frame. Set screw secures them in place. I built it out of old Coleman tent poles. No picts.

All of this helps in keeping rig more stable.
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Old 09-10-2015, 04:58 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AMG View Post
I like the block idea with the Home Depot hinge and handle. Cheap and easy, and pretty cool.

I did order the JT Strong Bars, so I will give that a try. installing extra scissor jacks mid-way would be a super easy and quick solution too, but let me give this a go and report back in the next time I take it out. Definitely do want to ensure that my scissor jacks are not extended near the full length as I can see how that would allow for them to be swayed more.

Thanks!


:EDIT: is that photo site all yours? Man, you do a ton of DIY stuff. I looked through all the pics. very cool.
Yes, it is. Thanks for the encouraging post! Most mods were done a few years ago. We used to camp 10 months a year -- now maybe 2 or 3 trips a year. Life got in the way. Hope to be back at it soon.
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Old 09-10-2015, 09:16 PM   #9
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Shaking rig

You can try the X Chocks, I understand they can make a difference by locking the suspension up.
http://www.amazon.com/X-Chock-Wheel-.../dp/B002XLHUQG

We had a couple join our travel club and they noticed the shaking, and they were the only ones in the 5er. Another club member had a set of the X chocks he passed along to them. Made a difference for them.
Hopes this helps some.

Chris in Virginia
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Old 09-10-2015, 09:32 PM   #10
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Thanks. I saw them. Seems that a lot of ppl r happy w the JT Strong Arms. My sister in law works for an RV parts company so I did the deal through her and it wasnt so bad. Hope they help or I will also add X Chocks
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