Dang it.... - Page 2

elind · 07-26-2014, 08:21 PM

I like that idea of removing the anode rod and putting tape over the hole. It make you or a helper know that the water heater is drained and not to turn on the electricity on till you fill it with water.

WolfWhistle · 07-27-2014, 07:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by laurajean

Thanks. I was trying to bleed the tank at the pressure relief valve. That's why I was so confused. The anode was a easy access nut that has about 1/4 inch of threads showing at the bottom of the tank. This is where you would drain the tank and
Place tape over the hole and store the anode rod in a zip lock bag to prolong its life while winterized.

Well now you've done it :-) Now, I have to check my own HWH!! I haven't read the manual on it, but now I will have to. Probably a good thing.

To tell you the truth (why do we say that), I have only drained my systems, using the provided drain points, and then blow the lines out with compressed air. I have never used antifreeze in any RV and have never had a problem. Maybe living where we haven't had a hard freeze since '89 might be the reason (duh!).

And, now what about the house? You are making work for me, but might have prevented me buying water heaters. Thanks, I mean it this time :-)

OldCoot · 07-27-2014, 08:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by elind

I like that idea of removing the anode rod and putting tape over the hole. It make you or a helper know that the water heater is drained and not to turn on the electricity on till you fill it with water.

Before you remove the anode for the winter, just go inside and shut the breaker off as another safety measure to protect the electric element next spring.

BamaBob · 07-28-2014, 03:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by laurajean

Ok thanks for the help....I took off the inside cabinet panel. Sure enough valve was in bypass. Not a fan having to unscrew panel each year, I would have thought a better fastening system would have been used for the access panel...oh well. Something to design. Again thanks for everyones prompt response.

Quote:

Originally Posted by harpman

Had the same issue as you..have a dummy cabinet access door but still couldn't reach it...called the dealer...once they told me how to remove a drawer it was a piece of cake
Sent from my iPhone using Forest River Forums

Easy Fix! Go to Lowes and get a cupboard door catch latch that comes close to matching all your other door catches.

Remove the fasteners from the cabinet panel, leaving the assembly on the door.

Install the catch latch

Problem solved

(Pro tip: Keep the assembly on the door to maintain the appearence versus having holes visible on the side of your door - OR remove the whole thing and fill holes with putty and use a stain pen to match...I was just too lazy to do this

)

laurajean · 07-28-2014, 03:15 PM

Thanks...good tip.

WolfWhistle · 07-28-2014, 04:43 PM

Your access panel, HSVBamaBob might be different than mine, mine is a piece of paneling with 4 drywall screws into 1 x 2s of the frame... or I am just more confused than normal :-) Can you 'spain it again?

WolfWhistle · 07-28-2014, 05:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by elind

I like that idea of removing the anode rod and putting tape over the hole. It make you or a helper know that the water heater is drained and not to turn on the electricity on till you fill it with water.

I am not sure I get it... speak s-l-o-w-e-r... tape the hole and put the rod in a baggy. In in RV why not, but what at home? I completely agree with OldCoot. but what if.. me being the idiot that I am, I come along and turn on the water outside and flood what ever room the HWH is in and never think to look at the HWH. Of course, you guys are the winterizing experts, but I wouldn't think an anode in an empty tank would go bad.

laurajean · 07-29-2014, 06:09 AM

I passed along the rod in the bag because that is what the tech said at suburban water heater company. It makes sense if it is empty, why would it have to be removed? It would be out to drain it. Maybe it has to be totally dry not to wear down. I noticed when I bought the unit I had to put it in, it is a new rod but it had very minor surface corrosion like old aluminum. Not sure if a new rod out of the box is completely smooth.
John

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BamaBob · 07-29-2014, 11:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WolfWhistle

Your access panel, HSVBamaBob might be different than mine, mine is a piece of paneling with 4 drywall screws into 1 x 2s of the frame... or I am just more confused than normal :-) Can you 'spain it again?

OOPS yes, yes, vastly different Rigs. Silly me!

Our access panel is actually a "fake" cabinet door at the base of our counter cupbord. Looks like a door, but it is screwed shut. I fixed that

When I get back to the house, I will post a couple of picts.

BamaBob · 07-30-2014, 05:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WolfWhistle

Your access panel, HSVBamaBob might be different than mine, mine is a piece of paneling with 4 drywall screws into 1 x 2s of the frame... or I am just more confused than normal :-) Can you 'spain it again?

Quote:

Originally Posted by HSVBamaBob

OOPS yes, yes, vastly different Rigs. Silly me!

Our access panel is actually a "fake" cabinet door at the base of our counter cupbord. Looks like a door, but it is screwed shut. I fixed that

When I get back to the house, I will post a couple of picts.

Photos as promised.
Photo 1 door closed with disabled security latch
Photo 2 door open to reveal catch (white box mounted on door is water leak alarm)

GL1800Rider · 07-30-2014, 07:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HSVBamaBob

Photos as promised.
Photo 1 door closed with disabled security latch
Photo 2 door open to reveal catch (white box mounted on door is water leak alarm)

Bob, where did you get your water leak alarm? That is a great idea

BamaBob · 07-30-2014, 08:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GL1800Rider

Bob, where did you get your water leak alarm? That is a great idea

You can get them at Lowe's or HD. Believe it cost me $9.75?

It comes in two parts - the alarm and 9V Battery housing (the white box) and the wires to the sensor. Put the sensor close to the pipes & HWH and affixed the sensor to the floor with museum wax.

This works pretty good...when I was intalling, I decided to test the unit. 110DB is pretty loud in the camper!

Lesson Learned: Tell DW who was working in the Bath BEFORE you test the alarm

WolfWhistle · 07-31-2014, 02:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HSVBamaBob

You can get them at Lowe's or HD. Believe it cost me $9.75?

It comes in two parts - the alarm and 9V Battery housing (the white box) and the wires to the sensor. Put the sensor close to the pipes & HWH and affixed the sensor to the floor with museum wax.

This works pretty good...when I was intalling, I decided to test the unit. 110DB is pretty loud in the camper!

Lesson Learned: Tell DW who was working in the Bath BEFORE you test the alarm

Tell her... naw... that's no way to...

!!!!
Wolf

Kaadk · 07-31-2014, 03:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HSVBamaBob

You can get them at Lowe's or HD. Believe it cost me $9.75?

It comes in two parts - the alarm and 9V Battery housing (the white box) and the wires to the sensor. Put the sensor close to the pipes & HWH and affixed the sensor to the floor with museum wax.

This works pretty good...when I was intalling, I decided to test the unit. 110DB is pretty loud in the camper!

Lesson Learned: Tell DW who was working in the Bath BEFORE you test the alarm

That might be a good add-on for those of us still using the onboard water filter, based on all the horror stories on this forum.

doc73 · 07-31-2014, 03:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kaadk

That might be a good add-on for those of us still using the onboard water filter, based on all the horror stories on this forum.

And shut your water off before you leave for the day... I was first upset out new trailer had not come with an on board filter, now I'll put my own outside once the blue one dies this season

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