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Old 07-25-2014, 08:39 PM   #11
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Yes...I am working on opening the cabinet to gain access to the back of the unit. I hope the problem is there. Thanks for your comments...of to wally.....
Pretty much positive that whoever winterized your unit has the HWH bypassed (damn them!)
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Old 07-25-2014, 09:12 PM   #12
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Not sure about your unit, my GT has access to water heater bypass through a round plate that screws off from underneath the water heater. Good luck!!
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Old 07-25-2014, 09:59 PM   #13
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Thanks... there is a dummy cabinet door that needs to come off. The unit came from up north so there is a good chance that its the problem.
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Old 07-25-2014, 10:57 PM   #14
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Did you go outside and use the check valve to see if there is water in the water heater? Also, silly question but did you turn on the electric water heater? It can take an hour to heat up. It can burn the anode rod out if the electric heater is on and there is no water in thermal so be aware of that. As others have said, the problem is probably in the valves are set to winterize.
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Old 07-25-2014, 11:32 PM   #15
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Did you go outside and use the check valve to see if there is water in the water heater? Also, silly question but did you turn on the electric water heater? It can take an hour to heat up. It can burn the anode rod out if the electric heater is on and there is no water in thermal so be aware of that. As others have said, the problem is probably in the valves are set to winterize.
Perhaps you meant the "heating element" not the anode rod will burn out. The anode rod is not an electronic component of the water heater. It provides a chemical function to keep a balance in the water heater.
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Old 07-26-2014, 10:51 AM   #16
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Ok thanks for the help....I took off the inside cabinet panel. Sure enough valve was in bypass. Not a fan having to unscrew panel each year, I would have thought a better fastening system would have been used for the access panel...oh well. Something to design. Again thanks for everyones prompt response.
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Old 07-26-2014, 11:02 AM   #17
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Had the same issue as you..have a dummy cabinet access door but still couldn't reach it...called the dealer...once they told me how to remove a drawer it was a piece of cake


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Old 07-26-2014, 12:12 PM   #18
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on our 2011 26rl I have to empty the storage under the bed, crawl inside to reach our valves.
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Old 07-26-2014, 01:48 PM   #19
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Hey Laurajean, from a fellow 29HFS'er and Floridian, if my memory serves. Glad you found the culprit.

Did you know when filling an empty HW tank, it will both fill faster and you will know when it is full by manually operating the relief valve out at the HW? When you see water first start spurting out of the valve, let go of it and close it... That method bleeds out most of the air, too.

While your standing there, flip the HW to AC... the switch that's half-hidden... so you will have hot water on their nickel! Important! Remember to turn it off... if you forget and have drained the HW, and then plug into power, guess what happens? Yep, burned out element.

I was kind of surprised to find the AC switch where they put it. If running the HW on gas, that switch is conveniently placed inside the unit. FR decided to make the HW partially convenient. For that I partially thank them.

Like someone eluded to, an anode won't burn out; it is just a rod of (usually) aluminum or magnesium... without going into the science of it, let's just say it's a less noble metal than the steel the tank is made of, is. It corrodes first instead of the tank. I'm not so sure if my 29HFS even has an anode. I'll be looking for it.
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Old 07-26-2014, 09:13 PM   #20
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Thanks. I was trying to bleed the tank at the pressure relief valve. That's why I was so confused. The anode was a easy access nut that has about 1/4 inch of threads showing at the bottom of the tank. This is where you would drain the tank and
Place tape over the hole and store the anode rod in a zip lock bag to prolong its life while winterized.
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