Fuel Gauge not working

[Alpine207]

I purchased a new Shockwave T27SA three weeks ago. The fuel gauge does not move off "E".
For troubleshooting, I pulled a wire off sender, but needle did not move. I pulled a wire off gauge, but needle did not move. I'm now assuming it must be the gauge ...

Any other ideas?

[Still Kickin]

Originally Posted by Alpine207

I purchased a new Shockwave T27SA three weeks ago. The fuel gauge does not move off "E".
For troubleshooting, I pulled a wire off sender, but needle did not move. I pulled a wire off gauge, but needle did not move. I'm now assuming it must be the gauge ...

Any other ideas?

Use this guideline when troubleshooting any mechanical issue. Always look at the overall system in particular in this scenario, think how many times the gage itself, on the dashboard, has ever failed. It is more likely than not the tank sending unit. Just sayin'

[Mastertech]

If you have an ohm meter you can check the sending unit to make sure it has a reading. It should read about 90 ohms when full to 0 ohms empty. Depending on sending unit . Hope this helps. Good luck.

[Alpine207]

The fuel tank is approx. half full and the sending unit is reading 105 ohms. Any ideas?

[rmoore0852]

Most if not all toy haulers have an inside switch that turns power on to the fuel station. Mine has a toggle switch inside the garage area. When off, no power to fuel gauge or fuel pump. Have to turn on the power to get gauge or pump working.

This is an anti-theft deal. Have to have access to the INSIDE of the camper before being able to pump fuel from the outside tank. You checked resistance already, check to make sure there is power to the hot side and let us know what you find.

[Alpine207]

I'm familiar with the switches and I made sure they were "on". I didn't check to see if there was power to the sender. I only checked ohm reading across sender.

[rmoore0852]

OK, just checking. Does the fuel pump work?

[Alpine207]

Yes, fuel pump works.

[rmoore0852]

The gauge may be bad, but it sounds like you still have some troubleshooting to do. Power should run through the gauge to the sending unit. You have to just start tracing how far you have power.
1. Figure out if the gauge is getting power, if yes then
2. See if the gauge is allowing power to flow to the sending unit, if yes then
3. Make sure the tank and sending unit is well grounded.

While not unheard of, these gauges don't go bad very often. I'm betting on a wiring issue somewhere. I haven't worked on many of these, but there is usually a power distribution block of some sort in the outside panel where the gauge and pump switch are. There is also usually a timer that turns everything off if left on for too long to keep from burning out the pump. Time to grab a multimeter and get in there and start tracing wires. Figure out how the system works and then find the problem.

[Alpine207]

I will work on it today. I would like to thank everyone for their help on this issue.

[Steele]

Take it back to the dealer. Why should you do warranty work. When I purchased my shockwave in 2012 I had five electrical problems (wiring problem's) one being the fuel station wired in reverse. Quality control does not seem to be a priority. Took it to Rialto, CA plant where they had it for ten days to correct problems. Purchased toyhauler from Mike Thompson

[Alpine207]

I purchased 500 miles away due to best price. The local Camping World can't schedule it in until January. I want to get the camper put away for the winter and can't wait for them to fix.

[Alpine207]

Update: I checked voltage at gauge (+) and 12V. I bought a fuel gauge at Napa Auto and I new the ohm range was same; the gauge worked fine. I can't use the Napa gauge because the mounting is different.

I called the dealer to see status of my warranty gauge and they said that FR has not authorized (it's been a week).