Rear door/ramp weight rating missing in spec sheets!

Yol Bolsun · 06-27-2013, 04:29 PM

Serious info missing on toy hauler specs. The weight capacity of the rear ramp should be included in the spec sheets. I am sure the the weight capacity has changed with the new rear door/ramps on GW 19RR and GW 21RRs. I believe the doors are labeled but would be nice from a 'shopping' stand point if that info was one of the published specs.

kfp673 · 06-29-2013, 08:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Yol Bolsun

Serious info missing on toy hauler specs. The weight capacity of the rear ramp should be included in the spec sheets. I am sure the the weight capacity has changed with the new rear door/ramps on GW 19RR and GW 21RRs. I believe the doors are labeled but would be nice from a 'shopping' stand point if that info was one of the published specs.

Great point! My UTV is 1600lb dry so I have been asking that question as well TH shopping!

WingHauler · 07-01-2013, 09:36 PM

I have had a 27' Wolf Pack for 3 years now and still haven't seen anything on the ramp capacity. It does handle a 925 lb. Gold Wing, with me on it, very well. I really never gave it much thought, as the salesman knew what I was going to haul in it before he even put this one on the list of possibilities. The trailer does very well all around, but we do max it out.

drc343 · 07-08-2013, 03:07 PM

Don't know if this helps you. This is on our Puma 298fqu rear ramp door.

Yol Bolsun · 07-08-2013, 04:39 PM

That is what I am talking about. Should be published on TH SPECS.

V-Dub · 07-09-2013, 08:25 AM

I've often thought about a Smart Car. If I were ever to go with a Class A TH like a Damon Outlaw, would the ramp handle the weight? I'm sure that info is somewhere but as the OP stated, it should be readily available as it speaks directly to usage options...and we all know those change as frequently as our moods.

V-Dub

WingHauler · 07-14-2013, 10:53 PM

Thanks for posting the photo, drc343. Duh....it was right there on my door frame. But, I can only see it when the door is open. I still don't know why I have never noticed it before. My door is a Lippert and is rated the same as yours. 3000 max and 1000 max per wheel.

Yol Bolsun · 07-20-2013, 07:17 AM

Found mine on our 2013 GW 21RR. LCI, 1600# max, 1000#/wheel.

OldCoot · 07-20-2013, 07:38 AM

Not having a th, what is the per wheel mean? i.e. 1600#max 1000#/wheel.

Yol Bolsun · 07-20-2013, 08:29 PM

IMHO, that would indicate that the 'foot print' of a single wheel should not exceed 1000#. In motor cycle or ATV applications this would be a highly unlikely scenario.

Plug32 · 07-29-2013, 06:22 PM

Do you all put down your rear stabilizer jack down before you load and off load? It is a good idea to put the rear jacks down. It keeps the bounce down thus preventing cracks where you don't want them.

Oaklevel · 07-29-2013, 07:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by drc343

Don't know if this helps you. This is on our Puma 298fqu rear ramp door.

x2

We have the same sticker / weight rating on the ramp of out Puma 356 QLB

Oaklevel · 07-29-2013, 07:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Plug32

Do you all put down your rear stabilizer jack down before you load and off load? It is a good idea to put the rear jacks down. It keeps the bounce down thus preventing cracks where you don't want them.

I do most of the time on the TH, always on my small trailers (Or I'm hitched up) ........ Our Puma weighs about +12K the pin weight is about 2800 lb a Golf Car that is less than 1000lb is not likely to affect it that much on the opposite end..........

Rileyandme123 · 08-05-2013, 05:07 PM

I have a 2009 stealth toy hauler. We put the two harleys in the back at under 900 lbs each, or we put the dirt bike and a 450cc atv in the back. Our issue is that we started after the 5th time taking the harleys out. the ramp started crackling. At the time of taking the harleys out, three times after the crackling started, one of the harleys fell right thru the end of the ramp that meets the road! The camper repair place said that the door is made of 1/4 inch plywood in "places" other than that, its 2" styrofoam! NOWHERE on my stealth limited or in the owners manuals or on the door or on the camper does it say how much weight the door can hold! The repair shop said it is going to cost just short of $3,000 to repair. It wasn't an accident, it was normal use, so our insurance policy is most likely not going to cover it. I want to warn all of you that have spongy or crackling ramps, that it's just a matter of time before they will break thru. I have warned friends who also have forest river toy haulers. They tell me that they are noticing the spongy feeling in their ramp doors too. Now they can reinforce their ramps before they break all the way thru like ours did. I think it's horrible that a company who knows people load things like this into their toy haulers, don't make them strong enough to carry the load. Or in my case, at least post the weight limit that each styrofoam door can hold.

Oaklevel · 08-05-2013, 06:49 PM

We have a 2013 Puma the only place we found a door capacity rating was a sticker on the door........that is the door is rated at 3000 lb but point loading 1000 lbs per wheel. That's new with no age or wear........

Rileyandme123 · 08-26-2013, 11:59 AM

I have a 2009 Stealth Limited Toy Hauler. We carry two Harley Street Glides in it, or a dirt bike and an ATV. We live in Colorado, but trailered the Harleys out to Maine this spring. While unloading the Harleys, we heard a noise that sounded like Plywood being broken in half. 3 weeks later, we took the Harleys to Oregon and while taking the harleys out, one of them broke right thru the ramp, just before the edge of the frame that was on the ground. It pushed both sides of the door right out of that frame. We called the camper repair place that sold the toy hauler, and they said they never heard of this. (The internet shows this happening a lot!) I turned it into my state farm insurance, and they covered it. I have a "suddon loss" clause in my policy. They paid $1,300 to get it back into it's "factory condition". I asked the repair place to call me when they had the door apart. I want to see why that door failed. The door is made of 1/4 inch plywood on both the inside and outside. The filling is 2 inch white, low density styrofoam. That's it! My toy hauler and the manual have no mention of ramp weights. The foam was cracked into small pieces where both bikes rolled. (Each bike is just over 800 pounds). My repair guys are putting 2, 1 inch pipes on each side of where the bike roll (so 4 pipes), then covering that with horizontal 1/4 inch plywood. Then they will put blue high density styrofoam in the air spaces, then put the origional shell back on. The materials for this upgrade is $1,000 and another $400 in labor. Then the dealer did a water test, because it looked like the frame was 1/4 inch bowed. Sure enough, it was. They first replaced the rubber seal, but it still leaked. So, I gave them permission to put a rain gutter over the ramp door, so that when the water runs off of the roof, it will hit the gutter and run down the left and right side of the back ramp/door. The service manager said he is sure this will fix my issues. We have 4 friends with toy haulers that move their harleys too. 3 of them have forest river toy haulers. 2 of those 3 are getting the spongy doors. They are going to reinforce their doors with aluminum tread plate or something, before they fall right thru that low density foam. I think it's wrong for someone to make a toy hauler, and not send it out with a door that can support what you are about to roll into your unit! After all is said and done, this fix is going to cost $3,400. I'm out of pocket less than that, but this ramp door for toy haulers should be strong enough to load the items that we are loading. Low density styrofoam is crap! We put 2 of those $25,000 bikes on a ramp door that is equal to a $3.00 walmart cooler. It makes me sick to think about what could have happened.

beyerjf · 10-21-2013, 06:48 PM

My work and play clearly states 5000# capacity evenly distributed on the ramp. I routinely drive my 2500# Geo Tracker in and out with no issues. That's the difference between a cargo trailer with added living space instead of a paper mache 5th wheel with a "garage".
Check the specs and tie downs for the garage, very low #'s

Rileyandme123 · 10-22-2013, 11:37 AM

Our friend has a 2010 work and play, and his back ramp/door is mushy too. In fact, it's worse than ours was. He had to bolt a 2X12 to the ramp, close to the hinge, just to give it some stability. He will be rebuilding his ramp door this winter, like the dealership, rebuilt ours. Forest River toy haulers are fantastic toy haulers. The ramp/door is not a quality door that we would expect on this kind of vehicle. His Work and Play does have a load sticker on it, like yours does. I hope you have continued success with your toy hauler. Deb

You may also like: