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Old 10-07-2015, 01:24 PM   #11
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Duck Brands has an adhesive remover that you could use to remove it. However, they also recommend using WD-40 to remove it.

Maybe the repair place has some experience with removing it as well.
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Old 10-07-2015, 02:29 PM   #12
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Duck tape? WD40 to the rescue!
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Old 10-07-2015, 03:38 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by americasweets View Post
Thank you. Is this true for the aluminum siding. Because that's what we have. I would assume it's true for fiberglass model. That is why we went with the aluminum. Figured it be an easy fix to replace a section instead of the whole side.
You have an aluminum panel that was not inserted into the S-Lock of the panel above it correctly before it was stapled at the bottom. Your dealer will have to remove the siding starting from the bottom and then re install so each panel is completely locked in. Its the only way to fix your problem. They will have a problem when it comes to fit around doors and windows when moving the panels up into position. Hopefully if its just a fraction of an inch all will be good.
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Old 10-07-2015, 07:14 PM   #14
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If its bulging from the nose and the first vertical stud its because there's on cross members and the nose flexes inware.
On mine I took a 3"X38"X1/4" aluminum beveled the edged, painted it white to match the trailer. Then screwed in to the nose stud and to the first stud back from there. That stopped the flex in the nose stud and the bulging. You won't notice the aluminum straps unless you are looking for them.
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Old 10-26-2015, 03:27 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Las Cruces View Post
If its bulging from the nose and the first vertical stud its because there's on cross members and the nose flexes inware.
On mine I took a 3"X38"X1/4" aluminum beveled the edged, painted it white to match the trailer. Then screwed in to the nose stud and to the first stud back from there. That stopped the flex in the nose stud and the bulging. You won't notice the aluminum straps unless you are looking for them.

Do you have picture?
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