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10-06-2015, 12:21 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Hanford
Posts: 31
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Side panels bulging out
We have a 2015 29V tt th. On our way to TX and last night the driver side panel started bulging out. It was late and we didn't notice it. It's on the slide side above the bedroom window. This morning we put it back together and added some painters tape to hold it in place. Does anyone know what could cause this. We plan to have the dealer look at it when we get to TX.
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10-06-2015, 03:28 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 3,570
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Quote:
Originally Posted by americasweets
We have a 2015 29V tt th. On our way to TX and last night the driver side panel started bulging out. It was late and we didn't notice it. It's on the slide side above the bedroom window. This morning we put it back together and added some painters tape to hold it in place. Does anyone know what could cause this. We plan to have the dealer look at it when we get to TX.
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From your description its sounds like delamination. In the RV sides the outside panel, the alum framing, the foam between them and the interior wall surface are "laminated with adhesive and then pressure bonded with heat to fabricate one strong section. In your case could be the glue, heat or pressure was not correct in that area and have become loose. Huge job to change a sidewall, best left to the factory.
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10-06-2015, 03:37 PM
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#3
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Hanford
Posts: 31
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Thank you. Is this true for the aluminum siding. Because that's what we have. I would assume it's true for fiberglass model. That is why we went with the aluminum. Figured it be an easy fix to replace a section instead of the whole side.
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10-06-2015, 08:39 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 3,570
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Quote:
Originally Posted by americasweets
Thank you. Is this true for the aluminum siding. Because that's what we have. I would assume it's true for fiberglass model. That is why we went with the aluminum. Figured it be an easy fix to replace a section instead of the whole side.
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Sure, if it's exposed seams and rivet's, otherwise it it will end up looking nasty. Should be repaired properly to keeps its appearance and value.
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10-06-2015, 08:44 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Seaford, De
Posts: 2,377
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help us help you. Just a bunch of guesses if we can't see what you see
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David & Lynn 2014 Coachmen Chaparral Signature 327 RLKS 2016 Ford F350 Lariat CC Dually
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10-06-2015, 09:06 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 3,570
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davel1971
help us help you. Just a bunch of guesses if we can't see what you see
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Huh? If I helped a client 3000 miles away, via telecon, you throw guesses till it works.
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10-06-2015, 09:09 PM
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#7
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Hanford
Posts: 31
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Alright thanks. I take a pic in the morning and post it.
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10-07-2015, 08:26 AM
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#8
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Hanford
Posts: 31
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The duct tape is to help keep the rain out and keep it from catching the wind. It keeps popping out. I would screw it but I don't want it to rip the siding. Well take it to the dealer when we get to TX.
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10-07-2015, 08:47 AM
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#9
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Southwest Alabama
Posts: 9,850
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Looks like the lip of the upper panel didn't engage the boss of the lower panel. That isn't too hard a fix for the dealer. However, that duck tape is going to be a bear to get off if it stays on there more than a day or two.
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Salem 29RKSS Pushing a GMC Sierra 2500HD!
Gotta go campin!
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10-07-2015, 10:20 AM
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#10
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Hanford
Posts: 31
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Ya it already is. Couldn't think of anything else to fix it.
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10-07-2015, 12:24 PM
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#11
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Southwest Alabama
Posts: 9,850
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Duck Brands has an adhesive remover that you could use to remove it. However, they also recommend using WD-40 to remove it.
Maybe the repair place has some experience with removing it as well.
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Salem 29RKSS Pushing a GMC Sierra 2500HD!
Gotta go campin!
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10-07-2015, 01:29 PM
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#12
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 9
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Duck tape? WD40 to the rescue!
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10-07-2015, 02:38 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 230
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Quote:
Originally Posted by americasweets
Thank you. Is this true for the aluminum siding. Because that's what we have. I would assume it's true for fiberglass model. That is why we went with the aluminum. Figured it be an easy fix to replace a section instead of the whole side.
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You have an aluminum panel that was not inserted into the S-Lock of the panel above it correctly before it was stapled at the bottom. Your dealer will have to remove the siding starting from the bottom and then re install so each panel is completely locked in. Its the only way to fix your problem. They will have a problem when it comes to fit around doors and windows when moving the panels up into position. Hopefully if its just a fraction of an inch all will be good.
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10-07-2015, 06:14 PM
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#14
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Member
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 71
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If its bulging from the nose and the first vertical stud its because there's on cross members and the nose flexes inware.
On mine I took a 3"X38"X1/4" aluminum beveled the edged, painted it white to match the trailer. Then screwed in to the nose stud and to the first stud back from there. That stopped the flex in the nose stud and the bulging. You won't notice the aluminum straps unless you are looking for them.
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10-26-2015, 02:27 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Franklin County, PA
Posts: 3,526
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Las Cruces
If its bulging from the nose and the first vertical stud its because there's on cross members and the nose flexes inware.
On mine I took a 3"X38"X1/4" aluminum beveled the edged, painted it white to match the trailer. Then screwed in to the nose stud and to the first stud back from there. That stopped the flex in the nose stud and the bulging. You won't notice the aluminum straps unless you are looking for them.
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Do you have picture?
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