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Old 12-27-2016, 12:49 AM   #1
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Trike setup in toy hauler

I just replaced my Road Glide Ultra with a '17 TriGlide Ultra and need some info from other trike owners about securing it in the toy hauler ('16 Vengeance 25V).

I get conflicting info from the maintenance guys at the dealership. Some say since the Trike has a parking brake just park it, set the brake and travel. I'm not too impressed with that answer. Another opinion is to secure with front and rear straps only, and the other is use the front wheel chock along with the straps.

None of the guys I talked to have a toy hauler and are only referring to hauling it in an open or closed trailer. I've attached a picture of the existing setup in my smaller enclosed trailer with the Bulldog chock. Since it's a Trike there is no longer a need for the chock's cam locking action to hold the bike upright but if I use it then I'll stay with the Bulldog chock.

So...anyone here have a Trike in the back of their toy hauler and how are you securing it.

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Old 12-27-2016, 06:39 AM   #2
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Hello, on my Trike I have it in a chock and a strap the tire to the chock, then I have 2straps from the handle bars down to the side. Then 2 straps from the chain link welded under the rear to the front to the same anchors used for the bars. Then I put 2 straps Chriscrossing in the rear of the bike on the same chain link used going to the front. And tighten it all down.
Hope it helps once I had 2 straps pop and I found it 1hour later bouncing around, don't forget to turn the alarm off or put the keys in the bike.


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Old 12-27-2016, 06:42 AM   #3
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On the rear they are crossed and going to the rear anchor !


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Old 12-27-2016, 07:55 AM   #4
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Straps only attached to trailer hitch and front wheel
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Old 12-27-2016, 09:10 AM   #5
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If the bike's frame is the same width (or close) as the other HD touring bikes, how about using a Biker Bar from B&W? It would be super simple with the trike, as long as the bar can clamp onto your frame. No straps, ride it into the jaws, it locks, and you get off--it's ready for transport.

Biker Bar? | Biker Bar | THE B&W ADVANTAGE
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Old 12-27-2016, 01:49 PM   #6
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Tie Down

If you are using the front wheel chock (bolted down?) you can then go from passenger foot rest back to tie down point. If wheel chock is not tied down then go rear passenger foot rest back to tie down points and engine guard forward to tie down points. That is how I have been doing mine for last two years and have not had a problem yet.
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Old 12-27-2016, 03:28 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AJAbbott View Post
If you are using the front wheel chock (bolted down?) you can then go from passenger foot rest back to tie down point. If wheel chock is not tied down then go rear passenger foot rest back to tie down points and engine guard forward to tie down points. That is how I have been doing mine for last two years and have not had a problem yet.
Does your trike have the tiedown attachment brackets at both ends of the rear axle, under the bike just inside the wheels?
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Old 12-27-2016, 03:56 PM   #8
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I'm with Cajun, lots of straps if your going very far. Bridges and overpasses are pretty rough at times and it can get ugly quick. I pull slightly forward with 4 straps, against the chock. Had to make my own tie down points. Passenger foot rest is a good point.
Have carried a Harley ultra about 15,000 miles.
Good luck
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Old 12-27-2016, 08:40 PM   #9
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Yes, small chain links welded.


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Old 12-28-2016, 05:27 PM   #10
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M/C tiedowns

No doubt about it- the brake or chock lock will keep it from rolling- but not from bouncing! and it will bounce and move around without rolling I can promise! LOL--. Most definitely strap it down....
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Old 12-28-2016, 06:13 PM   #11
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Thanks y'all for all the info. Going to go with the chock but since it has sorta non-skid pads I'm not going to bolt it down---yet. With the weight of the front wheel (about 450 pounds) and two locking Load-All straps on the front and rear I don't think it will go anywhere.

A few years back I loaded my Heritage Softtail into the bolted down Bulldog chock and just loosely attached the four straps. Forgot to tighten them the next morning and discovered the mistake when I opened the enclosed utility trailer 500 miles down the road. The Harley had not moved at all. The Bulldog definitely did what it's supposed to. An acquaintance once had a wreck while towing his trailer and it wound up on its side. After he got it upright and forced the door open he unloaded the Harley and rode it home. Not a single scratch on it. Gotta love the Bulldog/Load-All combination. It really works.
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Old 12-29-2016, 10:38 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeeWayne View Post
No doubt about it- the brake or chock lock will keep it from rolling- but not from bouncing! and it will bounce and move around without rolling I can promise! LOL--. Most definitely strap it down....
X2. Better strap it so it won't slide or bounce around. I use one pulling forward on the front and two pulling the rear wheels sideways and rear. Protect your investment. A bumpy road or quick stop could ruin your day.
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Old 12-29-2016, 11:13 PM   #13
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X2. Better strap it so it won't slide or bounce around. I use one pulling forward on the front and two pulling the rear wheels sideways and rear. Protect your investment. A bumpy road or quick stop could ruin your day.
X3 Couldn't agree more!
It ain't taking off like the speed of light that you have to worry about, it's the hard fast emergency stopping and the rough a$$ed roads!! The front wheel is one thing, a chock is a chock ~ straps to hold the front wheel in place is fine, but crisscrossed straps across the tail to hold the trike in one place and straps from under the frame to the rear of the trailer to keep it from flying and flipping forward when the trailer stops and the load doesn't.
Doesn't matter if hauling a trike, bike, quad or whatever ~ extra straps properly placed and tightened only takes a couple more minutes.
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Old 12-29-2016, 11:48 PM   #14
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I still think the Biker Bar would solve all your problems, and not having to strap and unstrap every time you load and unload is worth something. There would be no fore-aft movement, no side to side, and no bouncing. Once you get it installed and set up for your bike, it's so simple to use. Good luck.
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Old 12-30-2016, 12:07 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Taranwanderer View Post
I still think the Biker Bar would solve all your problems, and not having to strap and unstrap every time you load and unload is worth something. There would be no fore-aft movement, no side to side, and no bouncing. Once you get it installed and set up for your bike, it's so simple to use. Good luck.
The Biker Bar is a nice setup, but when the bike is not loaded there is the problem of tripping over the base. Most good installations I've seen in cargo or flat trailers have the chock or biker bar attached with bolts extending through the floor. Where the bolts protrude under the trailer, there is a piece of flat steel (usually 4x4" or larger) placed between the plywood floor and the nuts/washers on the bolts. I don't see where that's possible with a toy hauler due to the frame liners, underbelly, etc.
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Old 12-30-2016, 07:32 AM   #16
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It's totally possible, lots of people have Biker Bars in their TH garages, you just have to measure and place it accordingly. The big obstacle in mine was the fuel tank that was under he garage floor, had to do some creative engineering to not drill into that! But the way I did it, (and the way B&W designed it,) you can remove it when you don't want it there, if you're that worried about tripping over it. I wouldn't go back to straps ever.
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2015 XLR Hyperlite 30HFS5 (mods being performed regularly)
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Nights- ('12)23 ('13)23 ('14)15 ('15)31 ('16)27 ('17) 20 (18)21 (19)23
2019 Honda CRV (camping support vehicle)
2014 Harley Davidson FLHX (XLR cargo)
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