How can I tell if I have heated pads for holding tanks?

[Handydc]

If the tanks are inaccessible, you will be able to see heating pads on the exposed portion of the waste pipes where the black/grey valves are.

[Kimber45]

Wait. You have heating tank beds, but not an enclosed underbelly? Isn't that like running the furnace with the doors and windows open?

[Ron045]

Originally Posted by Kimber45

Wait. You have heating tank beds, but not an enclosed underbelly? Isn't that like running the furnace with the doors and windows open?

So what should it look like? You can't see your tanks?

In this picture, I am laying on my back taking a picture of the underside. You can even see the wheel on the other side. Should all of this be covered up? Nothing exposed?

Ron

[Kimber45]

I dont have a roo. I was just interested in the topic. The underside of my unit is totally enclosed like a lot of tt and 5th wheels now for longer season and better insulation. I just thought it odd a manufacturer would go to the trouble of putting on tank heating pads while the whole underside of the camper is wide open. Just my thought, doesn't seem like it would do a lot in cold weather.

[Kirk S]

If your manuals package didn't come with a checklist with model/serial # of all installed items the vin# & call to manufacturer may work best.
Another option would be purchase a Kill A Watt and check amps difference with pad switch on and off. (You need an adapter cord to go from 30 amp to 15 amp household receptacle).

[Kirk S]

Forgot to mention mine turn on at 44 degrees F and off at 64 degrees F according to mfr. info. Your will need to be cold to turn on and measure the amps if they're same type.

[5picker]

Originally Posted by Kimber45

I dont have a roo. I was just interested in the topic. The underside of my unit is totally enclosed like a lot of tt and 5th wheels now for longer season and better insulation. I just thought it odd a manufacturer would go to the trouble of putting on tank heating pads while the whole underside of the camper is wide open. Just my thought, doesn't seem like it would do a lot in cold weather.

The heating pads work on the principal of thermal induction.
The contact between the heated pad and the plastic tank, transfers the heat from the pad to the tank and its contents... not by heating the entire area surrounding the tanks.

Would it work better in an enclosed underbelly?... probably but not by a lot.

[Mr Havercamp]

Originally Posted by 5picker

The heating pads work on the principal of thermal induction.
The contact between the heated pad and the plastic tank, transfers the heat from the pad to the tank and its contents... not by heating the entire area surrounding the tanks.

Would it work better in an enclosed underbelly?... probably but not by a lot.

Knowing what the tank arrangement is on the IKSS, which is very similar to my WS, I sure would like to know what keeps the 5' or so of suction line to the pump from freezing as well as the black and gray valves? It may work ok a little below freezing for awhile but I would think anything approaching the low 20's might be iffy.

[5picker]

Originally Posted by Mr Havercamp

Knowing what the tank arrangement is on the IKSS, which is very similar to my WS, I sure would like to know what keeps the 5' or so of suction line to the pump from freezing as well as the black and gray valves? It may work ok a little below freezing for awhile but I would think anything approaching the low 20's might be iffy.

Probably nothing on the suction line so you're screwed even if the tank isn't frozen.

As best as I can tell looking at mine from inside the basement, (haven't pulled the Coroplast down underneath) my fresh water suction line comes from the tank located at the rear of the unit, all the way towards the front to the pump location. Probably 20' or so, I don't know how warm they expect that area to stay but I likely don't have a chance unless they zip tied it to one of the furnace ducts along the way.

As for the valves, on my rig there are pads on the tanks and additional smaller ones on the exposed black/grey valves. If you look at Ron's post # 23 you can see the smaller pad on his tank outlet port.

[Mr Havercamp]

Originally Posted by 5picker

Probably nothing on the suction line so you're screwed even if the tank isn't frozen.

As best as I can tell looking at mine from inside the basement, (haven't pulled the Coroplast down underneath) my fresh water suction line comes from the tank located at the rear of the unit, all the way towards the front to the pump location. Probably 20' or so, I don't know how warm they expect that area to stay but I likely don't have a chance unless they zip tied it to one of the furnace ducts along the way.

As for the valves, on my rig there are pads on the tanks and additional smaller ones on the exposed black/grey valves. If you look at Ron's post # 23 you can see the smaller pad on his tank outlet port.

Thanks, I missed that small pad in the picture. I might add this to my 23WS. Curious to see if they heat traced the suction line. Originally they had at least 4' from tank to the floor penetration. When I installed my second tank I moved the original forward almost a foot to fit the 2nd ahead of a crossmember and to keep the suction lines as short as possible. Now my original line is about 3' and the one to the tank behind around 5'. Every pump I am familiar with always says to keep it within 6' of the tank. As far as Ron's his gray valve should be located about a foot ahead of of the T (right behind the tire......amazing design lol) and there is about 1' or better of 1 1/2" ABS before it turns a 90 into the gray tank. I assume they stuck one of those small pads there also.

[ddbck]

Lol,it doesn't have to have an enclosed underside to be effective. Granted it would help.....but not required. Farmers & ranchers use these types of heater pads to heat the huge water troughs for their livestock & horses in the winter & those thing are 100% non-insulated or protected from the elements