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Old 07-26-2009, 04:31 AM   #1
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Need help with user manuals

Hi,

We just purchased a barely used 2008 Shamrock 19 and love it already but it came with NO manuals or instructions! We've got most of it figured out, but have only a vague idea how to use the Concertone ZX75. There isn't even a remote control for it!

For more fun, it's got a foam undercoat and I can't find the fresh water drain valve!!! There's a filter in the system, but the water smells AWFUL (we won't taste it) so we think a tank drain/flush/refill is in order and maybe a new filter? There's a blue hose sticking out of the foam that I think might be the drain, but only the last 2" of hose is showing. I need to know if that's it and what's there before I start cutting foam.

I'm also a bit lost on the LP changeover valve: which way should the handle be set when both bottles are full?
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Old 07-26-2009, 06:32 AM   #2
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As far as the LP valve goes..... it doesn't matter which way
you point the handle.
Say you point it to the left tank.
That now becomes your "main" tank.
Turn on both tanks.
The window will be green.
When the window changes to red it means your "main" tank
is empty and you have been switched to the "reserve" tank.
Which ever way the handle is pointed, is your "main" tank.

Definitely change the filter AND drain and flush the water heater.
The drain valve for the water tank should be next to the tank
on the floor.
Usually accessed from a storage area.

User manuals can be found online for each appliance.
You'll need make and model numbers from them.
Those can be found on a sticker on the appliance somewhere.
The owners manual from Forest River is useless anyway so don't
worry about it. It's just general stuff and nothing specific,
like where your drain valve is located.

Is there any chance you can contact the previous owners to ask
if they have the manuals laying around???

Welcome to the forums!
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Old 07-26-2009, 06:39 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KyDan View Post
As far as the LP valve goes..... it doesn't matter which way
you point the handle.
Say you point it to the left tank.
That now becomes your "main" tank.
Turn on both tanks.
The window will be green.
When the window changes to red it means your "main" tank
is empty and you have been switched to the "reserve" tank.
Which ever way the handle is pointed, is your "main" tank.

Welcome to the forums!
Another warm welcome here.

In addition to the excellent advise that KyDan gave on the propane system, I would suggest lifting both tanks, and start with the lightest tank. If you don't know which tank is the fullest, then you may start with the fuller of the 2, and when it comes time for the regulator to switch over, then you might find the 2nd tank is just about empty, and leave you with no propane at an inconvenient time.
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Old 07-26-2009, 06:09 PM   #4
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agree on the FR manuals as useless. you could contact Concertone and they should be able to send you a manual.

the smell is probably the water heater water sitting for a long time.

on my '07 Roo 23SS, the water tank is in the cabinet by the door/front bunk and the FW tank drain valve is next to it.
the filter is next to the water pump. these are the cabinet on the other side from the door, by the front bunk.
not sure if the '09 19 is in the same place. but the FW tank should be in an inside cabinet. they didn't put the FW tank underneath the frame until the latest models.
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Old 07-27-2009, 12:40 AM   #5
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Thanks, folks. I found the FW drain valve ... easy when you know where to look. I think I need to drain and "sanitize" it since the stinky water was from the COLD tap. I cringe to think what the hot's like. How do I drain & flush the water heater? For that matter, what's the procedure for the main tank?

I'm not sure what's with the LP changeover valve. I don't see green regardless of which way the handle's pointed. I'm going to un-clamp the tanks and weigh them tomorrow .... after I try to USE the LP. It looks like there's 3 parts in the window, red on both sides and too dark to see in the middle or something like that.
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Old 07-27-2009, 07:12 AM   #6
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The best way to clean your water tank is to fill it up drain it fill it again with water and add 1/4 to 1/2 cup of bleach to your tank ,run this water through all of your faucets and don’t forget outside shower if you have one let it sit in the tank and lines for a few hours then drain your tank fill it up and drain it several time then flush out your water line with the clean water you should be good to go and I would recommend not drinking from this tank they are good for washing hands and showering but better not to drink from them ,The best thing is to take a gallon or two of drinking water with you. The water heater should have a plug in it just unscrew it let it drain replace plug let it fill as you clean the tank and lines then remove plug drain it again replace plug fill with fresh water, You should be good to go .This is not hard to do just takes lots of time and water to get it clean. Hope this help any more question just ask
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Old 07-27-2009, 07:27 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Tom View Post
Thanks, folks. I found the FW drain valve ... easy when you know where to look. I think I need to drain and "sanitize" it since the stinky water was from the COLD tap. I cringe to think what the hot's like. How do I drain & flush the water heater? For that matter, what's the procedure for the main tank?
This is what I do.

Starting with all lines, hot water tank empty (and elements off) and filter removed, and while wearing old clothes (don't ask me how I know ) I pour 1/4 cup bleach into a milk jug and mix. Pour that mix into an already partially filled water tank via a funnel and hose. I use 1 of these mixes per 15 gallons of water, so a 30 gallon tank will take 2 mixes. I fill up the tank to overflow, and drive the camper around the block to slosh everything around good. The I cut on the water pump, and open all of the hot water faucets until I smell bleach from every faucet. I then close the hot water off, and do the same with the cold water. I then have lunch.....in other words, I wait a little while. I then open all bottom drains, and drain the system as best as possible. At this time, I do not pull the bottom plug from the hot water heater drain.....I don't want that solution down the side of my camper. I then refill the fresh water tank, and drive around the block again. Then I again pump water througn all of my lines, and really a lot through the hot water system to help dilute the water heater. Again, drain all of the low point drains, and this time I also drain the water heater. Close the drains, and repeat at least 1 more time. I still might have a slight chlorine taste and smell, but no more than a municipal water system.

Be sure there is no pressure on your system when you pull the bottom drain plug on the water heater.....you can get plenty wet without pressure. Also, flip the pressure relief valve open at the top to let some air in the tank for quicker draining.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Tom View Post
I'm not sure what's with the LP changeover valve. I don't see green regardless of which way the handle's pointed. I'm going to un-clamp the tanks and weigh them tomorrow .... after I try to USE the LP. It looks like there's 3 parts in the window, red on both sides and too dark to see in the middle or something like that.
My changeover valve does not turn green. My window shows a little red there when the tank is full, but the red indicator pops right up the window when empty.

Try this. Turn the changeover valve to 1 tank, and close the propane valve off on that tank, and leave the other open. Go and light the stove......by the time you get back out to the tanks, you should see the red indicator in the window, and your stove should still be working off of the back-up tank.
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Old 07-28-2009, 03:20 AM   #8
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Hi folks,

Time for an update and a hearty thanks to all!

I've located just about everything and I even think I know how it works, though I have yet to flush/drain the water system (not enough time).

The propane tanks are, as promised, full (bathroom scale says 40#) and the changeover valve window operates correctly once I actually USE some propane.

Dometic was speedy, sending PDF copies of the manuals for the refrigerator, A/C and awning, Concertone did the same for the stereo and I found the microwave oven manual on-line. I have yet to contact Suburban for info on the furnace and water heater, but those are pretty simple, no-brainers.

FR replied to email with instructions for getting a manual from them, but they want $5 so I may pass on that, based on what you folks have told me, unless they tell me it includes instructions on how to stow the front fold-out bed so that it doesn't jam the flip-out couch. Basic stuff like weights and balances, hitch weight, tire pressure and the like would also be useful....

Again, thanks to all,
Tom
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Old 07-28-2009, 06:31 AM   #9
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[ Basic stuff like weights and balances, hitch weight, tire pressure and the like would also be useful....

Again, thanks to all,
Tom[/QUOTE]

There may be a plate or sticker for this sort of info on the camper try looking inside the cabinets or on the outside usually on the front or side of camper for the sticker
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Old 07-28-2009, 01:56 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Tom View Post
The propane tanks are, as promised, full (bathroom scale says 40#) and the changeover valve window operates correctly once I actually USE some propane.

Glad the propane system works OK.

If you have 30 gal tanks, 40 lbs. might not be full. Mine weigh around 54 lbs. full, 24 lbs. empty. But even if they are not completely full, that is a lot of propane, so that should carry you through several campng trips.

I think (I think) the 20 lb. tanks on my Trailmanor weighed 15 empty and 35 full.
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Old 07-31-2009, 10:59 PM   #11
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This is what I do.

Starting with all lines and hot water tank empty (and elements off), and while wearing old clothes (don't ask me how I know ) I pour 1/4 cup bleach into a milk jug and mix. Pour that mix into an already partially filled water tank via a funnel and hose. I use 1 of these mixes per 15 gallons of water, so a 30 gallon tank will take 2 mixes. I fill up the tank to overflow, and drive the camper around the block to slosh everything around good. The I cut on the water pump, and open all of the hot water faucets until I smell bleach from every faucet. I then close the hot water off, and do the same with the cold water. I then have lunch.....in other words, I wait a little while. I then open all bottom drains, and drain the system as best as possible. At this time, I do not pull the bottom plug from the hot water heater drain.....I don't want that solution down the side of my camper. I then refill the fresh water tank, and drive around the block again. Then I again pump water througn all of my lines, and really a lot through the hot water system to help dilute the water heater. Again, drain all of the low point drains, and this time I also drain the water heater. Close the drains, and repeat at least 1 more time. I still might have a slight chlorine taste and smell, but no more than a municipal water system.

Be sure there is no pressure on your system when you pull the bottom drain plug on the water heater.....you can get plenty wet without pressure. Also, flip the pressure relief valve open at the top to let some air in the tank for quicker draining.
Great directions! ...except for one little thing...
I finally got around to doing it today, and wondered why I wasn't smelling chlorine when I was running the faucets. Then I dawned on me: THE FILTER!!! Released the pressure, unscrewed the holder and removed the cartridge and put the holder back. SUCCESS! Chlorine smell!
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Old 07-31-2009, 11:02 PM   #12
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Stowing fold-out beds

Does anybody have any secret way to stow (fold) the front bed?

Mine sticks out into the trailer interior and the support bow gets in the way of the flip-over couch opening.
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Old 08-01-2009, 06:32 AM   #13
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Quote:
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Great directions! ...except for one little thing...
I finally got around to doing it today, and wondered why I wasn't smelling chlorine when I was running the faucets. Then I dawned on me: THE FILTER!!! Released the pressure, unscrewed the holder and removed the cartridge and put the holder back. SUCCESS! Chlorine smell!
MY BAD !!!

Please add that to my directions. I usually do the sterilization every spring after winterization, starting with the filter canister empty.

Sorry about that. Glad you figured it out.

I am going to edit the post to include that step.
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