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Old 12-05-2016, 01:40 PM   #21
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So if I understand correct with your adapter cord you made to the TT30-R outlet (pic below), you connected the dryers W neutral to your trailers G ground, then ONE of the dryers hots (Y) to the trailers hot line....then the other dryers hot line X to the trailers neutral (W).
This is how I wired it


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Old 12-05-2016, 01:54 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by knot-my-fault View Post
So if I understand correct with your adapter cord you made to the TT30-R outlet (pic below), you connected the dryers W neutral to your trailers G ground, then ONE of the dryers hots (Y) to the trailers hot line....then the other dryers hot line X to the trailers neutral (W).
This is how I wired it


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Unfortunately, that should mess some things up.....unless you were lucky enough to possibly have miswired how you think you did it, and the 240 volt breaker to the dryer outlet tripped before you connected the RV as 325BH pointed out.

Did you by chance plug in the adapter cord to your daughters house, before plugging the RV into the adapter cord?
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Old 12-05-2016, 02:26 PM   #23
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For SAFTEY of all involved,we need to Pull the Plug on telling someone who is NOT familiar with Electricity,How to wire up a 220V outlet to convert for RV use! This kind of CRAP gets people "KILLED"! Call a Electrician! Youroo!!
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Old 12-05-2016, 02:54 PM   #24
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I won't be wiring anything again


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Old 12-05-2016, 03:19 PM   #25
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Unfortunately I wired both hots to the receptacle
Electrically challenged question / observation...

The quote is from post 11. If the OP JOINED the two hot leads to the hot side of the plug and put the neutral properly to the neutral, and ground to ground, wouldn't this result in zero current going into the trailer? The two hots are out of phase with each other so all current would go back and forth in the hots and nothing would go anywhere else.

I ask this based on some other information I've seen in the past. In S/B wiring for older homes, it was acceptable to run two hots and one neutral to a split outlet - standard two outllet receptacle with the jumper removed. Then you had two circuits sharing one neutral wire. This was acceptable because the white neutral only carried the difference between the load of the two hot sides. ie. one plug has load of 13 amps, the other 12 amps - white/neutral carrying 1 amp.

Now if both hots were of the same phase, you were prohibited from sharing a single neutral. If you did in the above example, the neutral would be carrying 25 amps and probably overloading the wire....

Also, it my understanding that at some point, that electrical code changed and three wire 220 dryer/range circuits are no longer allowed. They now require both a neutral and a ground in addition to the two hot leads.

If the OP did join the two hot leads and this is the newer 4 wire version, then he didn't do any damage to his trailer.

As O'Reilly says - where am I going wrong???
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Old 12-05-2016, 03:44 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by SailorSam20500 View Post
Electrically challenged question / observation...

The quote is from post 11. If the OP JOINED the two hot leads to the hot side of the plug and put the neutral properly to the neutral, and ground to ground, wouldn't this result in zero current going into the trailer? The two hots are out of phase with each other so all current would go back and forth in the hots and nothing would go anywhere else.

I ask this based on some other information I've seen in the past. In S/B wiring for older homes, it was acceptable to run two hots and one neutral to a split outlet - standard two outllet receptacle with the jumper removed. Then you had two circuits sharing one neutral wire. This was acceptable because the white neutral only carried the difference between the load of the two hot sides. ie. one plug has load of 13 amps, the other 12 amps - white/neutral carrying 1 amp.

Now if both hots were of the same phase, you were prohibited from sharing a single neutral. If you did in the above example, the neutral would be carrying 25 amps and probably overloading the wire....

Also, it my understanding that at some point, that electrical code changed and three wire 220 dryer/range circuits are no longer allowed. They now require both a neutral and a ground in addition to the two hot leads.

If the OP did join the two hot leads and this is the newer 4 wire version, then he didn't do any damage to his trailer.

As O'Reilly says - where am I going wrong???


If the OP joined the two hot leads together, the dryer breaker would have tripped the instant the plug was inserted into the dryer receptacle.

The OP's language said this but I was trying to get clarification. Not sure that is what happened based on later comments.

If the two hots were wired separately, one each to a spade on the RV receptacle, 200v would be introduced which is bad.
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Old 12-05-2016, 08:21 PM   #27
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I'm on my second microwave popcorn...Getting more confusing with each post...lol
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Old 12-05-2016, 08:27 PM   #28
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I'm on my second microwave popcorn...Getting more confusing with each post...lol


Not confusing at all. The OP has some conflicting info in his posts. Info that is critical to know what happened.

If 220 was delivered to panel, some/most/all devices can be damaged.

If 120 was delivered, all is well.

If both hot legs of conversion cord were tied together, the house dryer breaker would have tripped preventing damage.
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Old 12-05-2016, 08:31 PM   #29
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I believe it's the last one. The breaker tripped b4 anything fried.

Another lesson in cabbage wiring.
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Old 12-06-2016, 08:07 AM   #30
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So after I recharged my battery and reinstalled it the battery only items worked and not the AC items (microwave, TV, stereo) before I took it to the dealer

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Originally Posted by knot-my-fault View Post
Afterwards I got a proper 110v adapter and after the battery charged hooked everything back up.
Some more confusion/clarification questions?

I am assuming when you say "proper 110 volt adapter" what you are referring to is an adapter that lets you plug your RV's 30 amp power cord into a standard household 15 amp outlet. Something similar to this below, perhaps? In actuality, either a 30 amp or 15 amp outlet is 110-120 volts, so using the terminology you used isn't the clearest. As you get more familiar with the electric systems on the RV, you will start calling this by what it is, and it's a 30 "amp" to 15 "amp" adapter.



If so, remember you are limited to the outlet's 15 amps capacity, and should limit what you turn on in your RV as to not overload it. You no longer have a 30 amp capacity. This is explained in the Mark Polk links I posted for you previously.

Ok, now next question. When you used this adapter, is this also what recharged your battery just by hooking to shore power...or did actually take the battery out of the RV and recharge it by another means, as it seems you stated in another post (emboldened in red)

The reason for asking, is if the battery recharged via plugging it into shore power, then your converter is most likely working.
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Old 12-07-2016, 11:31 AM   #31
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I took the battery out of the TT and used a battery charger. I apologize if some of my info conflicts, I did 10 hr days to get here, got sick as a dog, and helped my daughter settle into her new home. I will answer any questions, all I know is everything works, so I assume the dryer breaker tripped


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Old 12-07-2016, 11:47 AM   #32
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I took the battery out of the TT and used a battery charger. I apologize if some of my info conflicts, I did 10 hr days to get here, got sick as a dog, and helped my daughter settle into her new home. I will answer any questions, all I know is everything works, so I assume the dryer breaker tripped
We understand. The reasons I ask all the questions is to gain the knowledge from members experiences/events like yourself and then use this to help other members who may have similar. Thank you for being cooperative and volunteering to clarify things.

If you are at your daughters still, you should be able to see if her dryer circuit breaker did indeed trip.

On a separate note, here is a great website to bookmark and peruse at your leisure. It has all kind of great electrical advice, including on how to make a DIY outlet tester.... if you don't have an EMS (Electrical Management System). Here is a link to this easy to make plug-n-play tester with the website it comes from linked at the bottom of this post

http://www.myrv.us/electric/Pg/tester_30amp.htm

Testing an outlet, should become part of your normal setup routine in all of your RV travels. I have found a few problematic outlets at campgrounds I frequent, and was able to discover this before plugging in. I highly recommend you at least familiarize yourself on how to test outlets before plugging in.

In the link below, you can peruse the tabs at the left, and the knowledge gained there should help greatly in your RV life.

RV Electric
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Old 12-07-2016, 04:32 PM   #33
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Forgot to mention, I tested the voltage on my battery and then again hooked up to the TT, I got 13.5 volts when installed so I figure that it is charging.


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Old 12-30-2016, 11:11 PM   #34
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So I'm trying to figure out if I just got extremely lucky. I was tired from traveling and I pluged my trailer into my daughters 220 V outlet. It seemed like nothing worked on the trailer, but I recharged the battery and it had to sit for several days because it was pouring rain and now everything seems to be working. I tested the microwave the television and the entertainment center and all seem to be working. I am currently checking the fridge to see if that works properly


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I didn't see here, but just in case nobody has mentioned it, I will. DON'T EVER DO THAT AGAIN! COME ON, MAN! Could have been disastrous! Good luck; I hope everything is okay.
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Old 01-02-2017, 07:20 AM   #35
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Lucky

I managed to avoid damage, not sure how but everything works and the trip home was uneventful, except for a semi trying wreck me.
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