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Old 07-02-2015, 08:43 PM   #1
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30amp derive run - 200'

I own a mountain property where I currently use twin Yamaha inverters to power my Wildcat. I do have a service pole 200' away. Can I run 30amp service that distance with 8 gauge wire and still have the punch to start my 15,000 air conditioner?
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Old 07-02-2015, 08:48 PM   #2
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Hello,
The voltage loss would be too great. For 200 ft you would need 6 awg for acceptable voltage loss at 30 amps load.

Voltage Drop Calculator

4% loss is acceptable assuming you have 120 volts availible
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Old 07-02-2015, 09:00 PM   #3
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Thank you for the education. Why does a 50amp service have more drop over that distance than a 30amp service?

Would you get UV wire or run it in a conduit?
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Old 07-03-2015, 06:14 AM   #4
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With out getting too technical. Think of a water pipe. The resistance to flow of a long pipe and if you try to push more water through the is more resistance than with a lower amount of water.
The loss is a wire is the resistance to current flow. The resulting loss is lower voltage out than what goes on.
The higher the flow the more pipe or in this case wire size is required to have the same loss.

You have several choices for type of wire. Direct burial is an option, trench requires sand or soft soil to compact around the wire. Might require a barrier on top, usually tracer take so people know when diging wire is below. Conduit at 200 feet would require a pull box mid span to service or repull wires. I would go with conduit which would allow les costly types of 90 degrees wire inside. You can always re pull the wire if required.
Arial wire is the cheapest option. Need poles installed for this, could be done by yourself but more unsightly.
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Old 07-03-2015, 09:15 AM   #5
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Thank you very much! Placing the wire in conduit will not be an eye sore. The run is through native weeds and grass.
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Old 07-03-2015, 12:40 PM   #6
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You can use the gray conduct underground, size of wire should be #6 copper or #4 aluminum for around 24 amp's. I would go to an electric supply store and look at getting service lead of #4 copper, know the cost will be higher than aluminum but you will not have any problems with it and it will give you a full 30 amp's.
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Old 07-03-2015, 02:51 PM   #7
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I would also consider the cost/benefit of installing a 50 amp service that would work well for a future 50-amp camper. The larger service would allow A/C, water heater and microwave to operate simultaneously.
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Old 07-03-2015, 03:36 PM   #8
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If I was doing this I would be preferably vibrating in a 1/0-1/0-2 URD direct burial cable going to one of these:
E-Catalog Error!
This is suitable for use as service equipment so it would need 2 grounds rods driven and would be considered a service. If it's to be fed from an existing service like a breaker panel this one would work:
E-Catalog Error!
This one would need a #6 USE cable in addition to the 1/0-1/0-2 URD cable but would not require any additional grounding as the #6 would be the grounding conductor.


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Old 07-03-2015, 08:37 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fast murray View Post
If I was doing this I would be preferably vibrating in a 1/0-1/0-2 URD direct burial cable going to one of these:
E-Catalog Error!
This is suitable for use as service equipment so it would need 2 grounds rods driven and would be considered a service. If it's to be fed from an existing service like a breaker panel this one would work:
E-Catalog Error!
This one would need a #6 USE cable in addition to the 1/0-1/0-2 URD cable but would not require any additional grounding as the #6 would be the grounding conductor.


Do it right the 1st time and never look back!
Doing it right involves one additional step - checking the local electrical codes.

As an example, a building fed from a single service line does not require grounding if the service line comes from a grounded distribution panel (National Electric Code). In NM, state code recinds that section of the NEC and requires an additional pair of ground rods at the building.

Phil
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Old 07-03-2015, 10:34 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pmsherman View Post
Doing it right involves one additional step - checking the local electrical codes.

As an example, a building fed from a single service line does not require grounding if the service line comes from a grounded distribution panel (National Electric Code). In NM, state code recinds that section of the NEC and requires an additional pair of ground rods at the building.

Phil
Um right, so what I'm saying is that if this is to be treated as a service it needs ground rods. This is assuming it is a pedestal in the middle of a field and is being fed from the power supplier's equipment be it a transformer or a their metering equipment. If its being fed from a shed or whatever and is being fed from a circuit breaker in the panel in the shed, it needs a separate grounding conductor in addition to the grounded (neutral conductor). As per the NEC but you should indeed consult your local codes. In SD we have a state wiring bulletin that has some additional requirements but nothing on this, this is the way its done here.
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Old 07-03-2015, 10:38 PM   #11
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Thank you very much! Placing the wire in conduit will not be an eye sore. The run is through native weeds and grass.
Not sure what your saying here but if it involves laying pipe on the ground that would be a violation. There is no way I'd put this in pipe unless your area is rocky. We have a few places like that here and we'll sleeve the cable in pipe or we'll bury cable in conduit which is URD wire preinstalled in conduit which looks very much like black water pipe. This is used mainly for center pivot irrigation systems here.
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Old 07-11-2015, 02:46 PM   #12
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We are 100 ft from our closest plug in. I used a 50 amp cable and put 30 amp ends on it. I ran two wires for common connected together and then a neutral and a ground of the other wires. We have used this for 7 years now and never had an issue with A/C start up or power losses. The air and microwave have never complained.


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