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Old 09-21-2009, 08:39 PM   #11
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On one of my my older set ups (Friction sway with Equilizer bars) I was told by the dealer that all friction should be released from the sway bars before backing up. Of course, One time I forgot and the inside friction pads broke off the assembly making the sway bars useless. IMHO...always release the friction sway bars or at least, back off the pressure BEFORE backing up.
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Old 09-22-2009, 02:45 AM   #12
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It cant hurt anything taking it off only takes a few seconds and for what they want for a new one $100 and up i say it is worth it
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Old 10-11-2009, 11:21 PM   #13
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Hi folks,

Speaking from experience, I once bent a friction brake sway controller when backing in to my site. The brake was set, I needed to swing the nose of my tow vehicle from hard left to hard right and in the process of doing so, I bent 'er up pretty good! So, my recommendation is to remove the brake completely, not just loosen it up. And for those of you that have Reese towing equipment, I highly recommend upgrading to the dual cam system. This thing is GREAT! You don't need to remove it when backing up and it is by far a more superior sway control. The price difference is double that of a friction brake but well worth $200. http://www.etrailer.com/p-26002.htm Be sure to watch the videos to see how the system works and how easy it is to install.
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Old 10-19-2009, 07:50 PM   #14
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I had the reese sway on my old camper and was told always to remove before backing. When I got the new camper alot of members on here recommended the equalizer which works great and you don't need to remove either. It was split among those with Equalizer and the dual cam and they said you couldn't go wrong with either one.
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Old 10-19-2009, 08:35 PM   #15
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I have the Reese WD&S control on mine. I have not had any problems with backing into a site and never noticed any damage to the hitch system. Now I don't know how important this is but correct me if I am wrong, once one unhooks the WD&S system say on a class 3 receiver dosen't this change the weight rating to the minimum of the receiver capacity? Now granted when the camper is being hooked up for travel the last thing that go's on is the WD&S control bars and the camper is already hooked to the hitch and receiver but the tow vehicle and camper is just setting there, by removing them before backing up into a site and changing the weight rating on the receiver will this effect the integrety or damage the receiver by pushing and pulling the weight of the camper into a site over time?
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Old 03-27-2010, 05:50 PM   #16
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WDH Problem

Hi, I too have a Blue Ox WDH. It has the bars connected with chains to brackets on my TT. One of the first times I had to back into my drive, besides a lot of creaking, I ended up snapping the bolt holding the bracket to the tongue on one side. Blue Ox web site says no need to remove the bars but I'm thinking I need to to keep that from happening again on such a tight turn backing.
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Old 04-05-2010, 10:48 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kcalvin57 View Post
Hi, I too have a Blue Ox WDH. It has the bars connected with chains to brackets on my TT. One of the first times I had to back into my drive, besides a lot of creaking, I ended up snapping the bolt holding the bracket to the tongue on one side. Blue Ox web site says no need to remove the bars but I'm thinking I need to to keep that from happening again on such a tight turn backing.
We backed the TT into the drive yesteday after removing the bars - way easier! We will remove them from now on! Thanks for the input.
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Old 04-05-2010, 02:02 PM   #18
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I never had a friction sway bar, just the weight distributing bars. I never removed them, and the worst site I had to park in just happened to be at my house. It was an adventure everytime because of the relatively narrow driveway going over a 5' deep, 5' wide drainage ditch. I got pretty good at it though...and never removed my bars while doing so.
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Old 04-05-2010, 07:27 PM   #19
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have the real Equal-i-zer and have never had to unhook my bars. that's one of the reasons i bought it. read too many horror stories from those with cheap WDHs that had friction sway bars.

i get the 4-way sway control without having to unhook to back up.
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Old 06-06-2010, 10:05 AM   #20
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We leave the LD bars on but remove the friction ant-sway bar.

I mangled my first friction anti-sway when I forgot to take it off while backing in. You can also mangle them on a really tight corner if you get close to a jackknife position/orientation while maneuvering someplace tight (if your facing forward in the tow vehicle the trailer is between 3 and 5 o-clock <pinch> or past 8, in the opposite direction <overextend> ).

Your not supposed to let the TT/vehicle get at those types of angles ....but life happens sometimes and it's easy to forget.

After the first $135.00 .... we now just make a habit of taking it off when we are "manuevering" or when backing up. However, if your just doing a mild or straight back-in, it really shouldn't matter.

I'll have to dig & see if I can find a pic of the old Reese friction bar looked like after we "pinched" it.
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