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Old 06-07-2015, 06:32 AM   #1
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Best way to build a levelling ramp??

The spot where I have to park my 35' TT wheels, has a drop of 5 1/2" over the 5 feet from the back of the rear tire to the front of the front tire. I am looking for a good, solid and simple way to build a ramp and base to get the wheels level before disconnecting the TT from TV (the height I need to raise the tongue jack is another story!!). Any suggestions or links to videos and pictures would be GREATLY appreciated.
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Old 06-07-2015, 06:48 AM   #2
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A picture with it parked would help.
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Old 06-07-2015, 07:01 AM   #3
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what kind of surface are you parking on? First thing comes to mind is add dirt/rocks but...
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Old 06-07-2015, 07:21 AM   #4
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Quote:
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A picture with it parked would help.
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Originally Posted by uhduh camping View Post
what kind of surface are you parking on? First thing comes to mind is add dirt/rocks but...
Hopefully I have attached images correctly. Driveway is concrete. The TT rear tire should sit about where the rear TV tire is in this picture. And the other image shows how high I have to raise my tongue.[ATTACH]Click image for larger version

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Old 06-07-2015, 12:25 PM   #5
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Here is what I did. Made ramps out of 2x10's for my MH.
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Old 06-07-2015, 01:56 PM   #6
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I have a similar problem where I park. I put Anderson levelers under the front two tires they are a little pricey but I also use them when out camping.
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Old 06-07-2015, 02:01 PM   #7
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I would build a short ramp out of 2- 2x8's stacked and screwed together with one end cut at an angle to form a _\ at as much of an angle as you can cut. Make the ramp long enough to go under one tire on each side. Then let the equalizers on the springs take up the rest of the angle. If you want, you could go 3 high. I would attach some rubber belting on the bottom of the ramps so they would not slip when backing on to them. Here is a picture of the front of my leveling ramps for when at the campground

Click image for larger version

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I use one of these on the electric tongue jack(the 6" one).


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Old 06-07-2015, 03:15 PM   #8
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Nothing is as easy as it first appears.



If I understand your post, this is the situation you have:
You are backing your trailer up hill in a concrete driveway.
The slope is ~ 10% (as a rise of 5.5 inches in 5ft would = 110 inches (9.2ft) in 100ft for a 9.2% grade). Sounds reasonable and your drive drains to the street nicely.

You want to be able to back up; then stop; then place a ramp in front of both front tires; get back into your Ford and pull forward to raise the front axle up until it's on the same level as the rear axle. End results will be the rear tires on concrete....front tires 5.5 inches higher sitting atop a platform. Platform needs to have slightly larger surface area than the "footprint" of the tire to prevent damage to the tire.
The problem is the tight spacing between the tires!! As you pull forward up onto a ramp, the rear tire will encounter the leading edge of the ramp and begin to rise, before the front tire reaches the plateau height you need.

Here's some food for thought as you think this through. Others may join in.

Solution one:
Cut a 4x8 sheet of treated one inch plywood into strips, whose width will slide between the two tires (you measure it). They should be 2-3 inches longer than the tires are wide. For sake of discussion, lets say you find a panel 8 inches wide will slide between the tires and 14 inches long extends an inch or two on either side. Be ready to make a lot of these!

Stop well ahead of your final parking spot (only performing this once or twice will allow you to mark the starting line to begin).

Put 1 or 2 panels between the tires on both sides of the trailer. Back up 8 inches and stop atop this first "step up".

Put 3 - 4 panels between the tires. Back up another 8 inches and stop again.

Repeat the process of building a higher platform between the tires, until the front tire is restings on a bed of panels stacked 6 deep (6inches high)
Your final step will be to put another 6 panel stack between the tires and butt them up against the 6 already under the tire (a total of 12 panels).

Finally, back up onto this platform that is now 16 inches wide, 14 inches long, and 6 inches tall under your front tire.

Before unhitching, securely chock between your tires......I'd invest in one that locks between the tires.

Realize, that the process of pulling forward will involve stacks of 5, then 4, then 3 platforms ahead of the front tire; with pauses every 8 inches to pull out the panels from between the tires. Tedious but workable.


Solution Two (and I am not the one to judge if this is even safe or structurally possible):

Can you slide a floor jack up under the front axle and raise it enough to place a platform of 5 or 6 panels cut 16 inches by 14 inches under the tire?

If "yes" is your answer (and I don't know); then you could use some exterior adhesive to "glue up" 5-6 panels together into a stack.

Repeat the jacking process on the opposite side of the trailer....again with some sort of chocking to prevent an unexpected roll.

BTW -when the platforms are not in use, drill a hole near one edge and pass a 12-18 inch loop of poly rope through it, knotted at one end. This will serve as a grap handle to pull the platforms back out and will allow you to hang them up on a hook in the garage when not in use.

Realize, that preparing to pull forward will require this same process of jacking up the axle to remove the platforms. You judge which is less tedious, best works for you.

BTW- your jack stands and front jack will look nicer if you take the remainder of that 4 x 8 sheet of 1 inch exterior treated plywood to glue-up some 6" x 12" blocks, each made up of 4 - 6 layers. Think how nice it will look to replace those chucks of concrete and scraps of treated lumber with the blocks you make. I mounted an aluminum truck bed tool chest on the tongue of our TT, so I can load my blocks and take them to the campsite, where they are used to support the scissor jacks.....makes for far less cranking! Luckily I was able to re-purpose a 50+yo, 6 x 8 treated mail box post that finally broke off at the ground, into several 6 x 8 x 6 blocks that are very light weight d/t their age.


Wait a few days and see if there's an engineer out there with a better solution than these! Good luck! peace/out
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Old 06-07-2015, 03:42 PM   #9
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The easiest solution would be to move to a new home, with a FLAT storage area for your RV. Just sayin.....
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Old 06-07-2015, 04:57 PM   #10
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I've been there although my driveway isn't sloped that steep. Are the rear tires of the TV on the slope when you have the TT backed up to where you want it to sit? If not, your problem will be the angle of the TV on the street relative to the driveway. You won't likely need to get the front tires up the full 5.5" - likely 2-3" will suffice and not put too much stress on the front axle. I suggest using either Anderson levellers (expensive) or PT 2x10s or 2x12s to make a ramp.

In my case, when my Roo was sitting where I wanted it in the driveway, with the trailer still connected to the TV, the tongue was about 6" off the surface of the driveway and I had to raise the tongue in 2 steps using axle stands. Looks like you have a similar situation.
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Old 06-07-2015, 04:59 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sparty047 View Post
Nothing is as easy as it first appears.



If I understand your post, this is the situation you have:
You are backing your trailer up hill in a concrete driveway.
The slope is ~ 10% (as a rise of 5.5 inches in 5ft would = 110 inches (9.2ft) in 100ft for a 9.2% grade). Sounds reasonable and your drive drains to the street nicely.

You want to be able to back up; then stop; then place a ramp in front of both front tires; get back into your Ford and pull forward to raise the front axle up until it's on the same level as the rear axle. End results will be the rear tires on concrete....front tires 5.5 inches higher sitting atop a platform. Platform needs to have slightly larger surface area than the "footprint" of the tire to prevent damage to the tire.
The problem is the tight spacing between the tires!! As you pull forward up onto a ramp, the rear tire will encounter the leading edge of the ramp and begin to rise, before the front tire reaches the plateau height you need.

Here's some food for thought as you think this through. Others may join in.

Solution one:
Cut a 4x8 sheet of treated one inch plywood into strips, whose width will slide between the two tires (you measure it). They should be 2-3 inches longer than the tires are wide. For sake of discussion, lets say you find a panel 8 inches wide will slide between the tires and 14 inches long extends an inch or two on either side. Be ready to make a lot of these!

Stop well ahead of your final parking spot (only performing this once or twice will allow you to mark the starting line to begin).

Put 1 or 2 panels between the tires on both sides of the trailer. Back up 8 inches and stop atop this first "step up".

Put 3 - 4 panels between the tires. Back up another 8 inches and stop again.

Repeat the process of building a higher platform between the tires, until the front tire is restings on a bed of panels stacked 6 deep (6inches high)
Your final step will be to put another 6 panel stack between the tires and butt them up against the 6 already under the tire (a total of 12 panels).

Finally, back up onto this platform that is now 16 inches wide, 14 inches long, and 6 inches tall under your front tire.

Before unhitching, securely chock between your tires......I'd invest in one that locks between the tires.

Realize, that the process of pulling forward will involve stacks of 5, then 4, then 3 platforms ahead of the front tire; with pauses every 8 inches to pull out the panels from between the tires. Tedious but workable.


Solution Two (and I am not the one to judge if this is even safe or structurally possible):

Can you slide a floor jack up under the front axle and raise it enough to place a platform of 5 or 6 panels cut 16 inches by 14 inches under the tire?

If "yes" is your answer (and I don't know); then you could use some exterior adhesive to "glue up" 5-6 panels together into a stack.

Repeat the jacking process on the opposite side of the trailer....again with some sort of chocking to prevent an unexpected roll.

BTW -when the platforms are not in use, drill a hole near one edge and pass a 12-18 inch loop of poly rope through it, knotted at one end. This will serve as a grap handle to pull the platforms back out and will allow you to hang them up on a hook in the garage when not in use.

Realize, that preparing to pull forward will require this same process of jacking up the axle to remove the platforms. You judge which is less tedious, best works for you.

BTW- your jack stands and front jack will look nicer if you take the remainder of that 4 x 8 sheet of 1 inch exterior treated plywood to glue-up some 6" x 12" blocks, each made up of 4 - 6 layers. Think how nice it will look to replace those chucks of concrete and scraps of treated lumber with the blocks you make. I mounted an aluminum truck bed tool chest on the tongue of our TT, so I can load my blocks and take them to the campsite, where they are used to support the scissor jacks.....makes for far less cranking! Luckily I was able to re-purpose a 50+yo, 6 x 8 treated mail box post that finally broke off at the ground, into several 6 x 8 x 6 blocks that are very light weight d/t their age.


Wait a few days and see if there's an engineer out there with a better solution than these! Good luck! peace/out
Wow Sparty ! Couldn't have asked for a more detailed response. Thanks for the time you put into that. Sounds like a good solution, albeit a tad time consuming maybe. I think I am going to try the Anderson Levellers first with an extra 2x8 piece underneath it to give me 5 1/2". If that doesn't work I will try your suggestion.

Love your comment about the engineer. My son-in-law IS an engineer with all the surveying equipment to calculate the exact slope and corrective heights I need - call is already in.

Cheers!
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Old 06-07-2015, 05:05 PM   #12
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I've been there although my driveway isn't sloped that steep. Are the rear tires of the TV on the slope when you have the TT backed up to where you want it to sit? If not, your problem will be the angle of the TV on the street relative to the driveway. You won't likely need to get the front tires up the full 5.5" - likely 2-3" will suffice and not put too much stress on the front axle. I suggest using either Anderson levellers (expensive) or PT 2x10s or 2x12s to make a ramp.

In my case, when my Roo was sitting where I wanted it in the driveway, with the trailer still connected to the TV, the tongue was about 6" off the surface of the driveway and I had to raise the tongue in 2 steps using axle stands. Looks like you have a similar situation.
TV is also on the slope a bit, so unhooking isn't an issue. I too have to 2-step the tongue jack to achieve the 'pretty' picture I showed above. Unfortunately, I do need the 5 1/2" riser for the front TT tire.

When I achieve the best solution for me, I will try to post a picture of it, so you all can see and others can learn from.

Thanks everyone for their $0.05 worth (no more pennies in Canada!!).
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Old 06-07-2015, 05:24 PM   #13
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Build a removable ramp that will support both tires with a stop on the back with a short steel pins on the bottom at the back and front, drill matching holes in the concrete so the ramp can't move and just back the trailer up on the ramp. You could also make stop on the top front of the ramp that you pin to the ramp.
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Old 06-07-2015, 06:06 PM   #14
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Build a removable ramp that will support both tires with a stop on the back with a short steel pins on the bottom at the back and front, drill matching holes in the concrete so the ramp can't move and just back the trailer up on the ramp. You could also make stop on the top front of the ramp that you pin to the ramp.
Another great idea! Thanks Old Coot!
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Old 06-07-2015, 07:51 PM   #15
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Short or Long Term Parking

I am wondering if you are planning to park the TT for long periods of time in your driveway or if it is a temporary situation like parking it there while you are loading and getting ready for a trip or performing maintenance. If it is long term, say over the winter, I would look for another option i.e. finding a storage facility.
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Old 06-07-2015, 08:19 PM   #16
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I have a similar problem where I park. I put Anderson levelers under the front two tires they are a little pricey but I also use them when out camping.
we use those as well!
love them!
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Old 06-08-2015, 07:29 AM   #17
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We fought this for years in our driveway with our TT,,, now that we have a MH,,, I had a guy come in and make us a level parking spot in the side yard !!! When I want to work on in the drive way,,, I made ramps out of 2 x 12,,, and park crossways,,, so we are raising one side about 8" !!!
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