Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 06-07-2015, 06:32 AM   #1
Senior Member
 
wpgman19's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba
Posts: 116
Best way to build a levelling ramp??

The spot where I have to park my 35' TT wheels, has a drop of 5 1/2" over the 5 feet from the back of the rear tire to the front of the front tire. I am looking for a good, solid and simple way to build a ramp and base to get the wheels level before disconnecting the TT from TV (the height I need to raise the tongue jack is another story!!). Any suggestions or links to videos and pictures would be GREATLY appreciated.
__________________
2014 Rockwood 8310SS Diamond
2014 F-150 Super Cab Ecoboost w/Max Tow

Nights Glamped - 2015 - 24
Nights Glamped - 2016 - 2018 - Seasonal
Nights Glamped - 2019 - on the road again!!
wpgman19 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-07-2015, 06:48 AM   #2
Mod free 5er
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 24,702
A picture with it parked would help.
__________________
OldCoot is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-07-2015, 07:01 AM   #3
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Frederica DE
Posts: 1,223
what kind of surface are you parking on? First thing comes to mind is add dirt/rocks but...
uhduh camping is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-07-2015, 07:21 AM   #4
Senior Member
 
wpgman19's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba
Posts: 116
Quote:
Originally Posted by OldCoot View Post
A picture with it parked would help.
Quote:
Originally Posted by uhduh camping View Post
what kind of surface are you parking on? First thing comes to mind is add dirt/rocks but...
Hopefully I have attached images correctly. Driveway is concrete. The TT rear tire should sit about where the rear TV tire is in this picture. And the other image shows how high I have to raise my tongue.[ATTACH]Click image for larger version

Name:	Tounge Jack Set Up.jpg
Views:	281
Size:	419.6 KB
ID:	79286[/ATTACH]
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Driveway with Truck.jpg
Views:	252
Size:	192.0 KB
ID:	79287  
__________________
2014 Rockwood 8310SS Diamond
2014 F-150 Super Cab Ecoboost w/Max Tow

Nights Glamped - 2015 - 24
Nights Glamped - 2016 - 2018 - Seasonal
Nights Glamped - 2019 - on the road again!!
wpgman19 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-07-2015, 12:25 PM   #5
Member
 
RudysWorld's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Collierville, TN
Posts: 586
Here is what I did. Made ramps out of 2x10's for my MH.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	001.jpg
Views:	279
Size:	366.6 KB
ID:	79314   Click image for larger version

Name:	002.jpg
Views:	210
Size:	319.2 KB
ID:	79315  
__________________

Rudy - 10 year old long haired dachshund, RIP
2011 Georgetown 350TS
2013 Chevrolet Equinox toad
RudysWorld is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-07-2015, 01:56 PM   #6
Junior Member
 
JPS0929's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 13
I have a similar problem where I park. I put Anderson levelers under the front two tires they are a little pricey but I also use them when out camping.
JPS0929 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-07-2015, 02:01 PM   #7
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Kamloops,B.C. Canada
Posts: 170
I would build a short ramp out of 2- 2x8's stacked and screwed together with one end cut at an angle to form a _\ at as much of an angle as you can cut. Make the ramp long enough to go under one tire on each side. Then let the equalizers on the springs take up the rest of the angle. If you want, you could go 3 high. I would attach some rubber belting on the bottom of the ramps so they would not slip when backing on to them. Here is a picture of the front of my leveling ramps for when at the campground

Click image for larger version

Name:	20150607_103815.jpg
Views:	276
Size:	246.6 KB
ID:	79334


I use one of these on the electric tongue jack(the 6" one).


Flip™ Jack Foot » Fastway Trailer Products
__________________
2012 Palomino Ultralite T245
2004 F250 Supercab 5.4L
09 Grizzly 700 EPS
09grizzly1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-07-2015, 03:15 PM   #8
2016 Shamrock 183 Hybrid
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Solar Unfriendy Mid Michigan
Posts: 69
Nothing is as easy as it first appears.



If I understand your post, this is the situation you have:
You are backing your trailer up hill in a concrete driveway.
The slope is ~ 10% (as a rise of 5.5 inches in 5ft would = 110 inches (9.2ft) in 100ft for a 9.2% grade). Sounds reasonable and your drive drains to the street nicely.

You want to be able to back up; then stop; then place a ramp in front of both front tires; get back into your Ford and pull forward to raise the front axle up until it's on the same level as the rear axle. End results will be the rear tires on concrete....front tires 5.5 inches higher sitting atop a platform. Platform needs to have slightly larger surface area than the "footprint" of the tire to prevent damage to the tire.
The problem is the tight spacing between the tires!! As you pull forward up onto a ramp, the rear tire will encounter the leading edge of the ramp and begin to rise, before the front tire reaches the plateau height you need.

Here's some food for thought as you think this through. Others may join in.

Solution one:
Cut a 4x8 sheet of treated one inch plywood into strips, whose width will slide between the two tires (you measure it). They should be 2-3 inches longer than the tires are wide. For sake of discussion, lets say you find a panel 8 inches wide will slide between the tires and 14 inches long extends an inch or two on either side. Be ready to make a lot of these!

Stop well ahead of your final parking spot (only performing this once or twice will allow you to mark the starting line to begin).

Put 1 or 2 panels between the tires on both sides of the trailer. Back up 8 inches and stop atop this first "step up".

Put 3 - 4 panels between the tires. Back up another 8 inches and stop again.

Repeat the process of building a higher platform between the tires, until the front tire is restings on a bed of panels stacked 6 deep (6inches high)
Your final step will be to put another 6 panel stack between the tires and butt them up against the 6 already under the tire (a total of 12 panels).

Finally, back up onto this platform that is now 16 inches wide, 14 inches long, and 6 inches tall under your front tire.

Before unhitching, securely chock between your tires......I'd invest in one that locks between the tires.

Realize, that the process of pulling forward will involve stacks of 5, then 4, then 3 platforms ahead of the front tire; with pauses every 8 inches to pull out the panels from between the tires. Tedious but workable.


Solution Two (and I am not the one to judge if this is even safe or structurally possible):

Can you slide a floor jack up under the front axle and raise it enough to place a platform of 5 or 6 panels cut 16 inches by 14 inches under the tire?

If "yes" is your answer (and I don't know); then you could use some exterior adhesive to "glue up" 5-6 panels together into a stack.

Repeat the jacking process on the opposite side of the trailer....again with some sort of chocking to prevent an unexpected roll.

BTW -when the platforms are not in use, drill a hole near one edge and pass a 12-18 inch loop of poly rope through it, knotted at one end. This will serve as a grap handle to pull the platforms back out and will allow you to hang them up on a hook in the garage when not in use.

Realize, that preparing to pull forward will require this same process of jacking up the axle to remove the platforms. You judge which is less tedious, best works for you.

BTW- your jack stands and front jack will look nicer if you take the remainder of that 4 x 8 sheet of 1 inch exterior treated plywood to glue-up some 6" x 12" blocks, each made up of 4 - 6 layers. Think how nice it will look to replace those chucks of concrete and scraps of treated lumber with the blocks you make. I mounted an aluminum truck bed tool chest on the tongue of our TT, so I can load my blocks and take them to the campsite, where they are used to support the scissor jacks.....makes for far less cranking! Luckily I was able to re-purpose a 50+yo, 6 x 8 treated mail box post that finally broke off at the ground, into several 6 x 8 x 6 blocks that are very light weight d/t their age.


Wait a few days and see if there's an engineer out there with a better solution than these! Good luck! peace/out
sparty047 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-07-2015, 03:42 PM   #9
Senior Member
 
FordHauler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: London, Kentucky
Posts: 630
The easiest solution would be to move to a new home, with a FLAT storage area for your RV. Just sayin.....
Travel safe
__________________
2019 Ford F-350 Super Duty CC Dually 6.7 Diesel
2011 Cedar Creek 36CKTS Touring Edition

I Catch Fish......What is your SuperPower?
FordHauler is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-07-2015, 04:57 PM   #10
Canadian Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Eastern GTA, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 6,233
I've been there although my driveway isn't sloped that steep. Are the rear tires of the TV on the slope when you have the TT backed up to where you want it to sit? If not, your problem will be the angle of the TV on the street relative to the driveway. You won't likely need to get the front tires up the full 5.5" - likely 2-3" will suffice and not put too much stress on the front axle. I suggest using either Anderson levellers (expensive) or PT 2x10s or 2x12s to make a ramp.

In my case, when my Roo was sitting where I wanted it in the driveway, with the trailer still connected to the TV, the tongue was about 6" off the surface of the driveway and I had to raise the tongue in 2 steps using axle stands. Looks like you have a similar situation.
__________________
2023 Rockwood Signature 8262RBS
2016 Ford F-250 XLT SuperCrew, 6.2L, 4x4, 6'9" bed
2019 Rockwood Signature 8290BS (2019 - 2022)
2011 Rockwood Signature 8293SS (2015 - 2018)
2010 Rockwood Roo 23SS (2012 - 2014)

itat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-07-2015, 04:59 PM   #11
Senior Member
 
wpgman19's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba
Posts: 116
Quote:
Originally Posted by sparty047 View Post
Nothing is as easy as it first appears.



If I understand your post, this is the situation you have:
You are backing your trailer up hill in a concrete driveway.
The slope is ~ 10% (as a rise of 5.5 inches in 5ft would = 110 inches (9.2ft) in 100ft for a 9.2% grade). Sounds reasonable and your drive drains to the street nicely.

You want to be able to back up; then stop; then place a ramp in front of both front tires; get back into your Ford and pull forward to raise the front axle up until it's on the same level as the rear axle. End results will be the rear tires on concrete....front tires 5.5 inches higher sitting atop a platform. Platform needs to have slightly larger surface area than the "footprint" of the tire to prevent damage to the tire.
The problem is the tight spacing between the tires!! As you pull forward up onto a ramp, the rear tire will encounter the leading edge of the ramp and begin to rise, before the front tire reaches the plateau height you need.

Here's some food for thought as you think this through. Others may join in.

Solution one:
Cut a 4x8 sheet of treated one inch plywood into strips, whose width will slide between the two tires (you measure it). They should be 2-3 inches longer than the tires are wide. For sake of discussion, lets say you find a panel 8 inches wide will slide between the tires and 14 inches long extends an inch or two on either side. Be ready to make a lot of these!

Stop well ahead of your final parking spot (only performing this once or twice will allow you to mark the starting line to begin).

Put 1 or 2 panels between the tires on both sides of the trailer. Back up 8 inches and stop atop this first "step up".

Put 3 - 4 panels between the tires. Back up another 8 inches and stop again.

Repeat the process of building a higher platform between the tires, until the front tire is restings on a bed of panels stacked 6 deep (6inches high)
Your final step will be to put another 6 panel stack between the tires and butt them up against the 6 already under the tire (a total of 12 panels).

Finally, back up onto this platform that is now 16 inches wide, 14 inches long, and 6 inches tall under your front tire.

Before unhitching, securely chock between your tires......I'd invest in one that locks between the tires.

Realize, that the process of pulling forward will involve stacks of 5, then 4, then 3 platforms ahead of the front tire; with pauses every 8 inches to pull out the panels from between the tires. Tedious but workable.


Solution Two (and I am not the one to judge if this is even safe or structurally possible):

Can you slide a floor jack up under the front axle and raise it enough to place a platform of 5 or 6 panels cut 16 inches by 14 inches under the tire?

If "yes" is your answer (and I don't know); then you could use some exterior adhesive to "glue up" 5-6 panels together into a stack.

Repeat the jacking process on the opposite side of the trailer....again with some sort of chocking to prevent an unexpected roll.

BTW -when the platforms are not in use, drill a hole near one edge and pass a 12-18 inch loop of poly rope through it, knotted at one end. This will serve as a grap handle to pull the platforms back out and will allow you to hang them up on a hook in the garage when not in use.

Realize, that preparing to pull forward will require this same process of jacking up the axle to remove the platforms. You judge which is less tedious, best works for you.

BTW- your jack stands and front jack will look nicer if you take the remainder of that 4 x 8 sheet of 1 inch exterior treated plywood to glue-up some 6" x 12" blocks, each made up of 4 - 6 layers. Think how nice it will look to replace those chucks of concrete and scraps of treated lumber with the blocks you make. I mounted an aluminum truck bed tool chest on the tongue of our TT, so I can load my blocks and take them to the campsite, where they are used to support the scissor jacks.....makes for far less cranking! Luckily I was able to re-purpose a 50+yo, 6 x 8 treated mail box post that finally broke off at the ground, into several 6 x 8 x 6 blocks that are very light weight d/t their age.


Wait a few days and see if there's an engineer out there with a better solution than these! Good luck! peace/out
Wow Sparty ! Couldn't have asked for a more detailed response. Thanks for the time you put into that. Sounds like a good solution, albeit a tad time consuming maybe. I think I am going to try the Anderson Levellers first with an extra 2x8 piece underneath it to give me 5 1/2". If that doesn't work I will try your suggestion.

Love your comment about the engineer. My son-in-law IS an engineer with all the surveying equipment to calculate the exact slope and corrective heights I need - call is already in.

Cheers!
__________________
2014 Rockwood 8310SS Diamond
2014 F-150 Super Cab Ecoboost w/Max Tow

Nights Glamped - 2015 - 24
Nights Glamped - 2016 - 2018 - Seasonal
Nights Glamped - 2019 - on the road again!!
wpgman19 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-07-2015, 05:05 PM   #12
Senior Member
 
wpgman19's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba
Posts: 116
Quote:
Originally Posted by itat View Post
I've been there although my driveway isn't sloped that steep. Are the rear tires of the TV on the slope when you have the TT backed up to where you want it to sit? If not, your problem will be the angle of the TV on the street relative to the driveway. You won't likely need to get the front tires up the full 5.5" - likely 2-3" will suffice and not put too much stress on the front axle. I suggest using either Anderson levellers (expensive) or PT 2x10s or 2x12s to make a ramp.

In my case, when my Roo was sitting where I wanted it in the driveway, with the trailer still connected to the TV, the tongue was about 6" off the surface of the driveway and I had to raise the tongue in 2 steps using axle stands. Looks like you have a similar situation.
TV is also on the slope a bit, so unhooking isn't an issue. I too have to 2-step the tongue jack to achieve the 'pretty' picture I showed above. Unfortunately, I do need the 5 1/2" riser for the front TT tire.

When I achieve the best solution for me, I will try to post a picture of it, so you all can see and others can learn from.

Thanks everyone for their $0.05 worth (no more pennies in Canada!!).
__________________
2014 Rockwood 8310SS Diamond
2014 F-150 Super Cab Ecoboost w/Max Tow

Nights Glamped - 2015 - 24
Nights Glamped - 2016 - 2018 - Seasonal
Nights Glamped - 2019 - on the road again!!
wpgman19 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-07-2015, 05:24 PM   #13
Mod free 5er
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 24,702
Build a removable ramp that will support both tires with a stop on the back with a short steel pins on the bottom at the back and front, drill matching holes in the concrete so the ramp can't move and just back the trailer up on the ramp. You could also make stop on the top front of the ramp that you pin to the ramp.
__________________
OldCoot is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-07-2015, 06:06 PM   #14
Senior Member
 
wpgman19's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba
Posts: 116
Quote:
Originally Posted by OldCoot View Post
Build a removable ramp that will support both tires with a stop on the back with a short steel pins on the bottom at the back and front, drill matching holes in the concrete so the ramp can't move and just back the trailer up on the ramp. You could also make stop on the top front of the ramp that you pin to the ramp.
Another great idea! Thanks Old Coot!
__________________
2014 Rockwood 8310SS Diamond
2014 F-150 Super Cab Ecoboost w/Max Tow

Nights Glamped - 2015 - 24
Nights Glamped - 2016 - 2018 - Seasonal
Nights Glamped - 2019 - on the road again!!
wpgman19 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-07-2015, 07:51 PM   #15
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Morgantown, WV
Posts: 104
Short or Long Term Parking

I am wondering if you are planning to park the TT for long periods of time in your driveway or if it is a temporary situation like parking it there while you are loading and getting ready for a trip or performing maintenance. If it is long term, say over the winter, I would look for another option i.e. finding a storage facility.
magpi26 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-07-2015, 08:19 PM   #16
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: West Virgina
Posts: 178
Quote:
Originally Posted by JPS0929 View Post
I have a similar problem where I park. I put Anderson levelers under the front two tires they are a little pricey but I also use them when out camping.
we use those as well!
love them!
ValMelton is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-08-2015, 07:29 AM   #17
Senior Member
 
Wolverine 1945's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: SouthWest Michigan
Posts: 5,977
We fought this for years in our driveway with our TT,,, now that we have a MH,,, I had a guy come in and make us a level parking spot in the side yard !!! When I want to work on in the drive way,,, I made ramps out of 2 x 12,,, and park crossways,,, so we are raising one side about 8" !!!
Wolverine 1945 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by Forest River, Inc. or any of its affiliates. This is an independent, unofficial site.



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:33 AM.