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Old 09-10-2015, 09:54 AM   #1
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Blocking up our 5th wheel

We have a 43' 2015 Sierra 378FB 5th wheel that we want to move to a permanent location. There is a concrete pad poured and elec. & septic tank there. What is the best way to raise the trl. up so that I can take some of or all of the weight off of the wheels (tandem axles) and still get it level and is this something that I can do ?
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Old 09-10-2015, 10:04 AM   #2
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I don't think you ever want to take the weight off the wheels. They provide a lot of support and stability.

Just put some wood under the wheels to keep them off the concrete and cinder blocks at different points under the frame to keep it from bouncing around. Use wood shims to tighten it up.

Ours has blocks at all four corners and also just in front of and behind the wheels.
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Old 09-10-2015, 10:04 AM   #3
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I wouldn't do it either.

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Old 09-10-2015, 10:05 AM   #4
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Would depend on how "permanent" you are wanting to make it. I have my 5er on a "seasonal" site and use concrete blocks and screw jacks on the frame in front, and behind, the wheels to just "snug" things up. Takes all the movement out.
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Old 09-10-2015, 11:57 AM   #5
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Treat it as if you were blocking up a mobile home. If you use concrete blocks ALWAYS place wood at the top of each block pier between the concrete and the steel frame to prevent the blocks from cracking. I can explain why, if you like. Place one set of blocks (piers) under each frame rail near the front and near the back of the unit, and about every six to eight feet along the length. Since the spring hanger locations are designed to support the unit while moving, they are an excellent location for blocking, but sometimes difficult to maneuver around, but make sure you have at least one pair of pier blocks in this location. If you do not support the unit evenly, the metal frame will take on a permanent "set" over a period of time, so leveling and proper spacing is important. You are wise to remove the weight from the tires, as they could develop a lump over time. Some support under the gooseneck is wise too.
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Old 09-10-2015, 12:18 PM   #6
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Thanx for the insight - I suppose that I need to start lifting at the point where the axles are (on one side at a time) until I see the tires start to relax. Then I can work my way around the rest of the unit. I can either use my 10 ton floor jack or my hydraulic jack for this purpose.
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Old 09-10-2015, 05:30 PM   #7
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Do not put support under the axle itself. Support under the spring packs where they attach to the axle is OK. Axles are hollow and can easily be bent.

If in an area subject to wind storms, there may be laws requiring tie downs to prevent wind movement. Hurricane prone areas such as Florida come to mind. You could consult your insurance company to see if tie downs apply.
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Old 09-11-2015, 06:21 AM   #8
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i,m going with tech teach here were the axles attach are the point where you want put the blocks if its good enough to pull that thing down the road with thats has to be sturdy enough to sit on blocks but if you spread the load it will stabilize it and like on a Mobil home they use wood shims to drive in between the frame and blocks to help level and snug the blocks in depending on how long you plan to have is sit there you could take all the weight off the tires pull them and not worry about them like a mobil home
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Old 09-13-2015, 07:58 PM   #9
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I'll also vouch that TechTeacher has the right idea ...
The only thing that I'll add is that when locating these pier block to support the trailer, make sure to locate them evenly curbside to roadside down the length of the trailer.
By doing so, you aren't introducing any possible twist to the frame.

Use a long bubble level along the frame.
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Old 09-13-2015, 08:37 PM   #10
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Mark - I'll also agree with TechTeacher and his method. I used that system on a 40' 5th wheel that was my home away from home for 9 months. One caution - don't assume that your concrete slab is level! Ask me how I learned that lesson.
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Old 09-16-2015, 12:28 AM   #11
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One other note on this subject: When using the concrete block piers- -Go to your favorite big box builders supply store and find the sheet metal pieces that are made to go on top of the concrete piers. Actually when using concrete block piers it is advisable for the topmost block to be a "cap block", which is solid and laid flat in use, and maybe 4" thick. When setting up the piers place this sheet metal on top of the cap block, place a piece of roofing felt to match the size of the piers on top of the sheet metal, then place a piece of 1/2" (minimum) plywood on top of all this. Do use wooden shims to wedge between the plywood and the TT frame. Find the larger builder shims and not the small door framing shims. This set-up will make the entire unit more stable and less likely to shift/change over time. The sheet metal deters crawly things from climbing up the piers and entering the TT. The roofing felt acts as a vapor barrier to prevent moisture from wicking from the concrete block(s) into the plywood. The plywood prevents the wooden shims from moving and coming loose. Don't ask me how I know (from experience) that wooden shims placed on either concrete or metal will come loose, they will. Have you ever wondered how a picture hanging in a house becomes crooked in time? The earth's rotation, the same thing that makes wooden shims come loose .
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