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Old 09-21-2012, 01:16 PM   #1
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Blowing out lines

I have recently purchased a 2013 Grey Wolf 29BH. I plan on blowing out the lines when I leave my hunting camp on sundays. Can someone provide a picture on how the valves should look when I am blowing out the lines?
Thanks
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Old 09-21-2012, 02:15 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gartan
I have recently purchased a 2013 Grey Wolf 29BH. I plan on blowing out the lines when I leave my hunting camp on sundays. Can someone provide a picture on how the valves should look when I am blowing out the lines?
Thanks
Which valves ?


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Old 09-21-2012, 02:31 PM   #3
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the 3 under the bed. hot and cold. looks like an H
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Old 09-21-2012, 02:40 PM   #4
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when blowing out the lines you should leave things like normal so that they will be flushed. alternate closing hot and cold at your sinks and shower (and toilet) the only time you should bypass your hot water heater is when you are filling the lines with anti-freeze but be shure its empty first. Also put some anti-freeze down your drains to get the water out and replaced with anti-freeze. This is the way I do it blowing out the lines with air.
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Old 09-21-2012, 02:43 PM   #5
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As mentioned by davidjb, leave the valves alone when blowing out the lines. If you are ready to winterize, see my comments below.

Valve on cold water inlet pipe should be closed or perpendicular to the hose.
Valve in between should be open or inline with the hose
Valve on hot water outlet should be closed or perpendicular to the hose.

Here's a photo of my Apex 151RBX in bypass mode
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Old 10-13-2012, 08:02 PM   #6
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At what p.s.i. do you use for blowing out lines? I have heard several different values and want to be sure.
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Old 10-13-2012, 08:10 PM   #7
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30 PSI will get the job done. Don't go with too much pressure or bad things can happen.
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Old 10-13-2012, 08:55 PM   #8
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30 or 40 psi, always have a sink open before you start compressor. Open second valve then shut first valve and repeat until you get them all. I never shut the valves unless the compressor is off. maybe best to start with shower because water can spray around.
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Old 10-14-2012, 08:33 AM   #9
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Don't forget even though you blow out the water lines, you'll still need to put anti-freeze in the "P" traps at all sink drains.
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Old 10-14-2012, 05:12 PM   #10
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if your not going to use hot water at your camp you can bypass the hot water heater just make sure you empty it. I always take the drain plug out and put it in my silverware drawer. My new camper has an anode and I just put it in a baggie.
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Old 10-15-2012, 02:37 PM   #11
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I greatly prefer to blown out lines as a method of winterizing as opposed to using anti-freeze.

My procedure is simple, and takes about 10 minutes start to finish. I can winterize the camper and then take it back out anytime i wish. I know guys who use pink-stuff and miss out on a few nice early spring camp-outs cause they don't want un-winterize it till they are sure the freezing weather is over.

My Class-A's previous owner used pink stuff, and I could never get rid of the taste from the freshwater tank. It was noticable no matter how many times I rinsed out the tank.

Tim
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Old 10-15-2012, 02:46 PM   #12
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I greatly prefer to blown out lines as a method of winterizing as opposed to using anti-freeze.


Tim
X2 I did the full anti-freeze bit last year for the first time and never again.
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Old 10-15-2012, 03:15 PM   #13
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X2 I did the full anti-freeze bit last year for the first time and never again.
This is the first winter with my fifth wheel and haven't decided if I'm going to anti-freeze. But, if I do, I think I'm definitely NOT going to put it into my FW tank or HW heater.
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Old 10-18-2012, 09:16 PM   #14
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I also did the blow out method to winterize my 5th wheel; however, now I wonder about the water pump and the line from the pump to the first pressure valve (?). Could there be water in these locations if you provide the compressed air from the exterior city water connection?
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Old 10-18-2012, 10:28 PM   #15
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I have recently purchased a 2013 Grey Wolf 29BH. I plan on blowing out the lines when I leave my hunting camp on sundays. Can someone provide a picture on how the valves should look when I am blowing out the lines?
Thanks

I needed info on winterizing my Cherokee 23DD and stumbled across this sight, (no manuals with unit and Forrest River had no useful info. Did it for the first time today. I drained all the drops and the tank and recapped them and drained the hot water heater. The cheap buggers only put one 3-way valve at the inlet of the hot water heater so if I would turned it the RV anti-freeze would have just went out the inlet of the hot water heater. So I took the outlet of the hot water heater off and plugged it. Then made up a suction hose to draw out of the RV anti-freeze jug. It took about 5 quarts, let it run a little longer to make sure the traps are full. Also took off the shower hose and drained it, and drained the water and RV anti-freeze out of the holding tanks. It took about an hour for the first time, now that I know what needs doing, should be a 30 minute job or less depending on how much water is in the tank.
With all the drop drains in these units I don't know how you would blow out all of the water, and get the water out of the pump. It's pretty easy and quick to winterize these with RV anti-freeze. I live where -20 to -30 below zero are the norm, so I need it done right.

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Old 10-18-2012, 10:34 PM   #16
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Did you drain and remove the water filter?
Run antifreeze through toilet and leave some on the seal?

It may not have one but most do.


Turbs.
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Old 10-19-2012, 08:28 AM   #17
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Did you drain and remove the water filter?
Run antifreeze through toilet and leave some on the seal?

It may not have one but most do.


Turbs.
I forgot to mention I by-passed the filter earlier. By leaving some on the seal, do you mean not flushing all of the RVAF? If so I'll dump a little in it.
Thanks
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Old 10-19-2012, 08:39 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by Mark2x2

I forgot to mention I by-passed the filter earlier. By leaving some on the seal, do you mean not flushing all of the RVAF? If so I'll dump a little in it.
Thanks
Mark
Yes dump some antifreeze in the toilet but don't flush it down.
The seal needs to remain wet .

You bypassed water filter but did you drain the cup and remove filter?
There may also be a little strainer by the wp make sure it's drained.

Looks like u did good!

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Old 10-23-2012, 09:56 AM   #19
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perfect example this weekend on why I blow out lines instead of using anti-freeze.

I had winterized the Roo 2 weeks ago. Figured we were done for the season, coupled with the fact that I have had to scrape frost off the windshield a couple of times.

Right now in St. Louis its 68 degrees calling for a high of 80. This weekend will be in the low 60's for highs. We have our annual adult Halloween costume party (or as I like to call it, The Defilement of Our Livers) and I am gonna spot my camper down at my buddies place where the party is. That way I can get thoroughly and morosely hammered, and not have to worry about driving home.

Had I done the pink-stuff, using the toilet or sinks would have been out of the question. After I get done bleeding to death from my eyes, I'll haul it home and blow the lines again.

tim
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Old 11-02-2012, 06:10 PM   #20
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what kind of compressor do you guys use for the blow out? i know it's recommended to be an oiless one, but is one of those portable tire type compressors enough or do you need a bigger "pancake" style, or...???
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